C160 Fuelishness

[EB-80/8inPA 1,974]

Gearing up for the winter, I had the C160 running nicely.  Having swapped the mechanical fuel pump for an electric, the blower mounted, and everything topped off and lubed, it was running great and I was ready for the big snow a few weeks ago; which is when it refused to start and just leaked fuel from the air filter instead.  Plug tested ok for spark, btw, the battery was putting out 11.4 volts, and it turned over.

I assumed another carburetor swap was easiest at that point and ordered one from the jungle.  I drained the tank, swapped out the isavetractors carb previous replaced, added fresh fuel and turned the key.  Still refused to fire and was really spewing the fuel at that point.

The new carb came with a plastic pump, and I’m tempted to go ahead and install that, thinking it may be the Cardone(?) pump (which really pumps well, I must say, if you ever need to blow lotsa gas out of the front of a carburetor!).

Any thoughts?  Hard to believe I could have two faulty floats in a row.  What am I missing?  What could be causing this?

Also, does anybody have a spare screw for the air cleaner bracket and where can you find good quality fuel line that’s flexible and not compounded like PVC plastic?  

TIA.

 

[ebinmaine 77,349]

5 minutes ago, EB-80/8inPA said:

thinking it may be the Cardone(?) pump (which really pumps well, I must say, if you ever need to blow lotsa gas out of the front of a carburetor!).

Any thoughts?  Hard to believe I could have two faulty floats in a row.  What am I missing?  What could be causing this?

 

 

It could be the electric pump is too strong. 

What's the ratings etc on it? 

 

 

 

It's also VERY LIKELY that you got two carbs with sticking floats.  

 

 

[ebinmaine 77,349]

6 minutes ago, EB-80/8inPA said:

drained the tank

 

Did you REMOVE and CLEAN the tank?

 Every inch of fuel line replaced? 

 

 

[EB-80/8inPA 1,974]

4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Did you REMOVE and CLEAN the tank?

 Every inch of fuel line replaced? 

 

 

No, but I’ll add that to the list before I tighten everything back up.  Are you thinking there’s grit getting past the filter that’s mucking up the carb?

[EB-80/8inPA 1,974]

8 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

It could be the electric pump is too strong. 

What's the ratings etc on it? 

It ran great for a while there.  Just refused to work when I needed to blow snow!

[WHX?? 55,024]

3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

VERY LIKELY that you got two carbs with sticking floats.  

Could be I had a NIB one that was stuck but didn't take much to unstick. Prolly got stuck jiggled around in shipping. 

12 minutes ago, EB-80/8inPA said:

anybody have a spare screw for the air cleaner bracket

The ones in front? I may have. 

13 minutes ago, EB-80/8inPA said:

good quality fuel line that’s flexible

I like this. 

amazon.com/gp/product/B000C34OUM/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

 

 

[pfrederi 19,893]

Most of the electric fuel pumps are available with different pressure ratings... Maybe you got the wrong one. You could add a pressure regulator if you think the pressure is too high and you can crank it down to 1 psi  that may not overwhelm your float

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Pilida-9710-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator/dp/B092DK7W1G/ref=sr_1_2_sspa

[peter lena 9,767]

@ebinmaine  totally agree on that  phase ! often refer to  do that  since  changing over to  adding  STA BIL  to my  fuel , from that point on there is  NO  DEBRIS , OR FULE HOSE BREAK DOWN , IN ANY RELATED FILTERS ,  only use  regular leaded fuel , ounce or two  to any tank top off ,  also my  fuel hose check valve  just before carb , clear vinyl  fuel rated hose , so I am consistently  looking at what's in the carb , my generator has the same set up , no fuel hose breakdown , doing this for years , as you know repetitive issues , show you the way  , that  frame length  5/16  steel brake line, also  ELIMINATES   a long  fuel holding , area , always  trying something , pete 

[peter lena 9,767]

@EB-80/8inPA  thanks for the  hit !   just about  anything  I do is based on  REPEITIVE FAILURE  ,  do you  repair /  fix  , exactly  as was there  , or think of a change ?  this could apply to ,chafed wiring , linkage issue , bearing noise , belt wear  , whatever  .  that fuel issue  used to my  problem too , that was  years ago ,  there was a  regular trail  of rubber break down ,  STABIL  STOPS THAT  , then what i did was replace all related hose , dropped carb bowl , clean out  added a filter  just before carb , and just after  leaving tank , which also has to be cleaned out , drop fuel valve , like synthetic  grease on the related O rings , makes installation much easier . I only use regular gas , STA BIL  corrects  rubber break down , my stand by gen , also uses STA BIL , no fuel hose break down at all , filter / bowl  always clean clear  , instant sarts , 5/16  steel brake line , makes a very good  long  fuel  run inside frame ,upper  angle corner , tie wrap it off  in place , no fuel hose break down , there ! just talkin , pete     

[ebinmaine 77,349]

5 hours ago, EB-80/8inPA said:

where can you find good quality fuel line that’s flexible and not compounded like PVC plastic?  

 

We've switched to using a Briggs and Stratton fuel line. I buy it in 25 foot rolls. 

It's alcohol compatible (we use E-free gas but others don't) & very supple.