702854boy 479 #1 Posted 5 hours ago The k301 on my grandpas 122 is having a hard time cranking over. It keeps getting caught on the compression stroke. It has always done this but usually it would start, but after replacing the head gasket and replacing the bearings and brushes in the s/g it cranks to the compression and then gets stuck. And it also has all new wiring. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,827 #2 Posted 5 hours ago What model tractor is it. (122 ??) Load test the battery. Check all ground connections. Did the rewire use heavy enough cables for battery to switch (or Solenoid) and from there to the A terminal on the S/G (at least 6ga) 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
702854boy 479 #3 Posted 4 hours ago 36 minutes ago, pfrederi said: What model tractor is it. (122 ??) It is a 1967 Cub Cadet 122 but it still has the same Kohler that our Wheel horses use 36 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Did the rewire use heavy enough cables for battery to switch (or Solenoid) and from there to the A terminal on the S/G (at least 6ga) Yes, I used six gauge wire to rewire it and I haven't load tested the battery but it is and 530 cca car battery because the engine is from the era where they used the big batteries Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 64,026 #4 Posted 4 hours ago How about your S/G belt, is it a cogged rubber edge belt? NAPA 25-7345 is what you need. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 30,925 #5 Posted 4 hours ago (edited) Check your points gap. If they are opening too far this means you timing is too far advanced and the plug if firing before the piston reaches TDC. Example: if they are set at .020 try setting them at .018. One other thing that may cause it to stop at compression stroke is the ACR not working. Depending on the spark plug location in the head, (some heads position the spark plug directly over the exhaust valve) you can watch the exhaust valve as you turn the engine over by hand. The exhaust valve should lift up slightly shortly before the piston reaches TDC. Edited 4 hours ago by Achto 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 54,732 #6 Posted 4 hours ago Whats the spec number? We can look it up and see if it's even got a ACR cam. 29 minutes ago, 702854boy said: but it still has the same Kohler that our Wheel horses use Not necessarily. Base motor might be the same but built to a Cub spec. Might have a bad spot (weak) SG. 7 minutes ago, Achto said: Check your points gap. If they are opening too far this means you timing is too far advanced and the plug if firing before the piston reaches TDC. Example: if they are set at .020 try setting them at .018. If it's firing too soon (too far advanced) it's usually going to puff and try to reverse rotation. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,827 #7 Posted 3 hours ago Big Battery may not equal good battery. Poor mans load test...hook up multimeter to battery. Should read 12.6v.. Then try cranking her. If voltage drops to 9 or below weak battery 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
702854boy 479 #8 Posted 3 hours ago 57 minutes ago, 953 nut said: How about your S/G belt, is it a cogged rubber edge belt? NAPA 25-7345 is what you need I'm not sure what the belt is but it's not too bad and I have it adjusted so that there is about a 1/4 of belt slack 42 minutes ago, Achto said: The exhaust valve should lift up slightly shortly before the piston reaches TDC. 31 minutes ago, WHX?? said: Whats the spec number? We can look it up and see if it's even got a ACR cam. When I had the head off and was rotating it by hand the exhaust valve did lift up slightly and it appeared that the acr was working. 32 minutes ago, WHX?? said: If it's firing too soon (too far advanced) it's usually going to puff and try to reverse rotation. Then the timing might be advanced because it does try to fire and then it puffs and reverses rotation so I'll probably have to mess with the points. I don't know what they are set at right now as I didn't mess with them yet but I figured that since it ran before that they should have been fine. 33 minutes ago, WHX?? said: Might have a bad spot (weak) SG. That part I don't know, all I did was replace the bearings, brushes, and clean up the commutator with some scotch brite 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
702854boy 479 #9 Posted 2 hours ago How exactly would one adjust the points gap Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,827 #10 Posted 1 hour ago Does the S/G spin after the engine stops turning is the belt is slipping? 1/4" is a lot of play on a short belt. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 15,820 #11 Posted 1 hour ago Are all K301s ACR-equipped? Might this be a spark-advance engine? Agree with @pfrederi--S/G belts have to be tighter than one might think (and not worn!) to avoid slippage. If the belt is riding below the rim of the S/G pulley, you need a new belt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
702854boy 479 #12 Posted 1 hour ago 7 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Does the S/G spin after the engine stops turning is the belt is slipping? 1/4" is a lot of play on a short belt. No, the s/g stops along with the engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,827 #13 Posted 1 hour ago Load Test battery or try a different one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
