What’s going on with my snow removal set up?

[fourwheelhorseman 362]

So I got a deal on snowblower a while back, along with a snowcab. I installed both and noticed that when I’m using that setup that to turn the auger I have to reach through the hole in my cab to acsess the handle.  I’m wondering if it’s the correct snowblower for my C-160. Shouldn’t that hand stick through the cab for easier use?

Edited Tuesday at 02:48 PM by fourwheelhorseman

[rjg854 12,834]

When I had a snow cab on 16 Auto the handle was long enough to come through that slot. I suppose then it would depend on the blower you're using.

[fourwheelhorseman 362]

10 minutes ago, rjg854 said:

When I had a snow cab on 16 Auto the handle was long enough to come through that slot. I suppose then it would depend on the blower you're using.

That’s what I thought, I’m thinking it’s the wrong blower

[pfrederi 19,801]

I am a NO Cab guy so I can't comment on that but the crank handle on your short chute looks about right to me.

 

 

[ebinmaine 77,093]

35 minutes ago, rjg854 said:

When I had a snow cab on 16 Auto the handle was long enough to come through that slot. I suppose then it would depend on the blower you're using.

 

 

With a short chute single stage blower? 

[fourwheelhorseman 362]

I’ll try and take better pictures this evening. The handle is actually at a weird angle as well. And I have to slide up to the edge of the seat to reach it when it’s cranked to the right or to the left.. it’s awkward to say the least and I’m sure it has somthing to do with the blower model. However it’s a great blower with very little use.. so I might just live with it.. or try and modify it.

Edited Tuesday at 04:19 PM by fourwheelhorseman

[lynnmor 8,569]

There should be a slot in the cab fabric for the handle.  You need to add an extension so that it extends inside.

 

Please explain this since there should be no change in position: "I have to slide up to the edge of the seat to reach it when it’s cranked to the right or to the left"

[Ed Kennell 44,691]

When I had that blower on my 520H. I added an extension to bring the crank into the cab  thru the cab slot.   It's been a while, but I think I cut the 1/2" dia crank rod and used a length of 3/8" pipe as an extension.   I drilled the 3/8" pipe open to accept the 1/2" crank ends and then drilled and pinned the parts together.

I also added a crank  support inside the cab

[fourwheelhorseman 362]

1 hour ago, lynnmor said:

There should be a slot in the cab fabric for the handle.  You need to add an extension so that it extends inside.

 

Please explain this since there should be no change in position: "I have to slide up to the edge of the seat to reach it when it’s cranked to the right or to the left"

I’m going to add better pics this evening that hopefully will explain it a little better

[rjg854 12,834]

6 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

With a short chute single stage blower? 

No mine was a tall chute, he didn't have a photo up when I replied.

[squonk 45,383]

Cut your chute rod. Obtain a length of new rod needed and connect the ends with these:

 

[wallfish 19,078]

12v electric gear motor and locate the switch inside the cab 

[fourwheelhorseman 362]

2 hours ago, squonk said:

Cut your chute rod. Obtain a length of new rod needed and connect the ends with these:

 

I had a freebie snowblower at one time that was in bad shape. I knew I shoulda kept it for parts! I’ll do some measuring and get the stuff I need. I actually though about welding a piece on to extend the rod.

[fourwheelhorseman 362]

2 hours ago, wallfish said:

12v electric gear motor and locate the switch inside the cab 

That would just be one more thing to go wrong on an already problematic implement…

[JCM 10,652]

I know this is a 2 stage on a 520 - H but shows bracket for rod and entry on left side attached to Cab upright. Hope this clarifies a little for you.

[lynnmor 8,569]

1 hour ago, fourwheelhorseman said:

I had a freebie snowblower at one time that was in bad shape. I knew I shoulda kept it for parts! I’ll do some measuring and get the stuff I need. I actually though about welding a piece on to extend the rod.

 

I made a sleeve as above but used a hairpin clip instead of one of the set screws, that way I can remove the handle without a tool.

[fourwheelhorseman 362]

3 hours ago, lynnmor said:

 

I made a sleeve as above but used a hairpin clip instead of one of the set screws, that way I can remove the handle without a tool.

Nice!

[Ed Kennell 44,691]

Here is a picture of the chute crank support panel I made when I had the short chute blower on the 520.   The crank was inserted thru the hole and the slit in the canvas and connected to the extension sleeve.      The panel also served to mount the switches for the cab lights which I still use.

[peter lena 9,727]

@ four wheel horseman , also easy to  use a  threading  die  nut , on the end of that  rod  for a screw on  ball  ,  done that to any related  round rod , makes work with gloves / mittens seamless , pete   

[wallfish 19,078]

On 2/11/2026 at 8:02 AM, fourwheelhorseman said:

That would just be one more thing to go wrong on an already problematic implement…

I found the crank handle to be the ploblematic issue when it's inside of a cab because it became kind of clumsy in that tight space. It wasn't the end of the world but I definitely prefer the ease and speed of using a motor. Reliability of electronics could certainly be a problem when it's not done correctly. 

If you're adding a support bracket for the handle to extend it into the cab, you could also use a universal joint shaft coupler to change the "weird angle" and position it where it works best for you.

Is the "already problematic implement" issue more than just the crank handle length? 

[KC77 3]

I ran into this issue also. I bought a single stage short chute at an auction in 24. Used it once in 25. Saved up and bought a OTC cab in fall of 25. OTC manual talks about extending the chute rod but after a lot of pondering and looking at the manuals in this site determined the design was and the older manual says was to reach your hand out of the cab slot and turn the chute crank. Not happy with this answer and with winter coming I made a bridge clamp to go around the handle. I then welded a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter to that and ran that to a 1/4 swivel. That allowed it to angle down to work in the cab. The new cab came with a L bracket that I used to brace the 1/4 extension and finished it using a 1/4 tee handle. I electrical taped all the fittings so they would not vibrate loose. So far so good. Its gotten some workout and has worked well. If you don't have a cab you do not have this problem and I did not want to cut the handle off in case I sell the blower at some point.

pic 1.pdf pic 2.pdf pic 3.pdf pic 4.pdf

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,986]

If the crank is extended into the cab raising and lowering the snowthrower would need the crank to be flexible. A 4"-5" length of 1/2" hydraulic hose with the wire braid inside plus 2 clamps makes a good flexible joint.

[fourwheelhorseman 362]

On 2/13/2026 at 7:08 AM, wallfish said:

 

Is the "already problematic implement" issue more than just the crank handle length? 

Yes, anytime you have lots of moving parts on an implement that’s used primarily in snow and around salt… that’s the problematic part. The bearings, chain, even the cable to turn the chute needs attention. Don’t get me wrong.. when the snow is deep and fluffy this thing is a beast and I wouldn’t be without it. But also can certainly be a headache at times.

Ill most likely extend the handle around 8 inches, that should get it.

[wallfish 19,078]

Just thought you might be having some other mechanical issues other than the handle. Regular maintenance, cleaning and lubrication will solve those issues. I guess anything that has any moving parts could be considered problematic whether it's in the snow and salt or not because of normal wear. The only salt mine gets is from the DOT piles at the road. If you leave a clean snow area to clear for doing after those road salt piles or any other areas with salt, the clean snow will wash it off.  I seem to have more of an issue with grit from dust and dirt in the warm months causing wear on parts.

 

The longer the straight rigid handle is, the more distance the end of it will travel up and down just from the normal motion of the blower and lifting it up. When extending the handle, keep in mind the full amount of motion of the blower because it also lowers down depending on the terrain it travels on, which then raises the end of the handle. Tape or zip tie a straight dowel or rod to the to the long straight part under the bent handle so then you can see how long it can extend without becoming a problem. You might want to jack up the front of the tractor to lower the blower if it's close to hitting something or doesn't leave enough room to spin the handle. 

[squonk 45,383]

The snowblower I had was a tall shoot but had no issues with the handle and it was still flexible enough