Chris689 28 #1 Posted 3 hours ago So I bought this tractor roughly three weeks ago. Not running and trans completely locked. Getting it on the trailer was a lot of fun. Got it home, pushed it in the barn and figured I wasn’t going to get anywhere with it for a little while. Well one night I randomly decided I was gonna pull the carb and clean it. Brought it to work and took it apart. None of the gaskets tore but I did find basically sand or god knows what in the bowl. Threw it in the ultrasonic for a few hours, didn’t have any new gaskets at the time so I figured just to find out if it would run I just slapped the carb back together with the old gaskets and threw it back on the engine. Ran new fuel line and filter. Put a small amount of gas in the tank and it finally fired, took a little to fill the bowl and re-prime the pump. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris689 28 #2 Posted 3 hours ago Got it running then it was time for the trans. Had no idea what condition it was in just that it wouldn’t roll and the shifter was in neutral. While running I put it in reverse and let the clutch out and it went backwards. I then ran it through all the gear and hi-lo range and it worked perfectly. I decided it was a good time to throw the plow on even though the handle wouldn’t lock in the up position. After days of juicing the handle down the button still wouldn’t pop up on its own. Took the handle and rock shaft out and found the lock block to be cockeyed in its track causing it to jam. Separated it from the button rod and put a small bend in the rod to match the contour of the handle and it worked perfectly. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris689 28 #3 Posted 3 hours ago (edited) Next was the blade angle lever. Because this doesn’t have the separate clutch and brake pedal like my 77 C120, the different foot board wouldn’t allow me to pull handle past the center position. Cut a small notch and now the lever has full range of motion. Edited 3 hours ago by Chris689 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 54,277 #4 Posted 3 hours ago 15 minutes ago, Chris689 said: trans completely locked. Frozen water in it? Been there done that. Time to drain and flush. Nice Allis ther ... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris689 28 #5 Posted 3 hours ago Finally the tractor is 100% usable but not 100% done so there will be more to come. Right now it’s being used as the snowplow when I don’t have enough snow to use the 120 with the blower. It’s gonna get all the main sheet metal pulled in the spring and going to get just a quick scuff and shoot and new decals hence the “Budget Resto”. Don’t want it to be too nice that I’m afraid to use it lol. Then the 120 will be next on the docket but that’s just paint. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris689 28 #6 Posted 3 hours ago 3 minutes ago, WHX?? said: Frozen water in it? Been there done that. Time to drain and flush. Nice Allis ther ... Thank you that was last years project. It’s a Simplicity 5212 that I did as an Allis look-a-like. Previous owner swapped in an 18hp Briggs. Im not sure if it was water or just stuck in gear. The second I let the clutch out it moved so I’m assuming it was just stuck. Regardless I will be doing a drain and flush. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,965 #7 Posted 2 hours ago If it sits for a while to give the oil/water time to separate and you remove the drain plug from the left rear of the transmission bottom water will come out first if there is any. Lift the front of the tractor so the oil ahead of the hump in the transmission also gets drained. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 11,119 #8 Posted 2 hours ago 36 minutes ago, Chris689 said: Regardless I will be doing a drain and flush. Pull the trans dipstick - if the fluid is all amber / clear - good. If is tan / white, it has water in it. Remember you need to elevate the front of the tractor about a foot to allow all the fluid to get over the internal hump in the bottom of the case to drain... Bill 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris689 28 #9 Posted 1 hour ago (edited) Would you guys happen to know the quantity of the trans. I believe it’s 85w90 or 80w90 gear oil, please correct me if I’m wrong. Edited 1 hour ago by Chris689 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 11,119 #10 Posted 1 hour ago You will need 2 quarts. Not that it will take that to fill it - put in 1-1/2 and read the dipstick. Top Off to suit. A drinking straw down alongside the funnel will vent it as you pour if using the dipstick tube to fill... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris689 28 #11 Posted 1 hour ago 16 minutes ago, ri702bill said: You will need 2 quarts. Not that it will take that to fill it - put in 1-1/2 and read the dipstick. Top Off to suit. A drinking straw down alongside the funnel will vent it as you pour if using the dipstick tube to fill... Perfect thank you I appreciate it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris689 28 #12 Posted 3 minutes ago (edited) I’m also looking for a little insight into the PTO bearings. Should I replace them before they possibly go bad? Due to how long it’s been sitting I’m considering replacing the bearings and the seal is junk anyway. Also the grease is old so I pulled the PTO to clean everything out anyway because it spins even when not engaged. The shaft is kinda sticky from the old grease which I believe is causing this. I will be installing a PTO brake and the bracket required to mount the brake since I’m assuming 1973 didn’t have them at all as mine doesn’t have one. All in all, should I just pull everything, clean and re-grease, replace the seal and re-install or just replace the bearings and seal and obviously clean things up. Edited 2 minutes ago by Chris689 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
