The only stupid question is the one you don't ask.

[CD Long Jr 162]

My game plan for the 416H over the next few days is to remove the hub caps, (how do I remove the hub caps? (Without damaging them, I've seen them listed for $200 & up}, install 55 lb. rear wheel weights, cut to fit the front tire chains chains, (they're off a Sears lawn tractor), & install the dozer blade. I have ordered V bar chains for the rear wheels. Rear axle bracket & new Diehard battery were installed yesterday. Axle bracket is 3-1/4 inch to the right from the housing. She's gonna need a good pressure washing in the spring. I remove all the debris I could with my air compressor & 12 inch blow nozzle.

[Retired Wrencher 6,357]

CD long. Find a thin long shaft screwdriver. Gently start moving in a corner that you can get the screwdriver in and go all the way around fairly easy done it many times. Maybe put a towel down on the floor because if you can’t catch it when it will land on something soft.. So it won’t dent the cap.Enjoy the project. I personally would put an electric fuel pump on that because of the gas tank being in the rear. My first wheel horse was a 312 A and it had that rear fuel tank. Took forever to get fuel up to the carburetor. Don’t buy the cheap ones spend a few dollars and buy a good one. I think we had a discussion about this already not sure. Have a good day. It looks like you may have a leakey axel seal on the right side by the picture showing the gas tank.  

Edited 2 hours ago by Retired Wrencher

[Racinbob 12,580]

You could punch it out from the backside. Just be careful not to dimple the cap.

I'm a big advocate of electric pumps, especially on the rear tank tractors. Here's a question and thought on a vacuum pulse pump. It came to mind looking at @CD Long Jr 's tractor. There's the vac pump mounted on the engine but clearly well above the fuel level. I would think that mounting it lower would be much better. What about mounting it back by the tank? Say in the cavity to the left of the tank with only 5-6" of fuel line from the tank? It only makes sense that the vac-pulse pumps push better than pull. The big question is will the pulse still be OK running a vac line that far? Seems to me it would but.... It could be a good alternative to an electric with the only down side is the engine would need to be running in order to move fuel.

[WHX?? 54,197]

1 hour ago, Retired Wrencher said:

Maybe put a towel down on the floor because if you can’t catch it when it will land on something soft..

If you do it won't fall if you don't' you'll fumble and it will. For what they get for them these days gotta keep em in good shape. 

[WHX?? 54,197]

53 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

mounting it back by the tank?

Not a bad idea Bob since his is just hanging there anyway but for the work just go to a electric??? 

[Ed Kennell 44,433]

       I use one of these paint can openers with a little extra bend in the blade. as a pry bar.

I have my doubts on moving the pulse pump back under the tank.     Seems that large increase in the volume of air in that long vacuum line would really reduce the effective range of the pulse.      Lowering the pump below the tank will prevent it from losing prime, but it still has to pump a lot of fuel to reach and fill the carb.

  I would go with the epump for instant startup.

[Racinbob 12,580]

6 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Not a bad idea Bob since his is just hanging there anyway but for the work just go to a electric??? 

 

Just thunking out loud Jim. I'm not sure it would really be any more work though. Just running a vac line instead of wires. I never even thought about it until this thread. I just wondered if the pulse would be strong enough. Most likely I'll stick with the lectric cuz I like wiring. 

 

1 minute ago, Ed Kennell said:

I have my doubts on moving the pulse pump back under the tank.     Seems that large increase in the volume of air in that long vacuum line would really reduce the effective range of the pulse.      Lowering the pump below the tank will prevent it from losing prime, but it still has to pump a lot of fuel to reach and fill the carb.

  I would go with the epump for instant startup.

 

I was kinda thinking that way too Ed. 

[peter lena 9,671]

@CD Long Jr   might  get some penetrating oil  on the wheel / cap  areas ,  break down the  grunge /  rust , enhance , easy movement , pressure washing  , also drives  moisture into the  tiniest  areas , would minimise that , done a lot of paint recovery with , penetrating oil soak  down. spray it  weeks out  , let it feed whats there . your paint looks perfect to me for  , oil recovery  , done a lot of that , once  saved , only a clean penetrant oiled cloth , makes them pop. ;ole CARBOLE micro electric fuel pumps , very solid , 2-3.5 psi , also replace the tank valve , like a silicone grease , for related grommet , fit placement . mineral oil  , on a clean cloth  , is  great for a paint  refresh ,  makes them pop , glad for your interest , pete

 

[Ed Kennell 44,433]

While we are on the fuel subject ...again,  I would remove the tank shut off valve and remove the screen or replace it with a new on with no screen.

Of course flush out the tank first and reassemble with a new rubber grommet.

Then I install a fuel filter between the tank and the fuel pump to protect the pump and another filter near the carb. to pick up any bits of debris from inside the lines.    I like belts and suspenders and the epumps have no problem pumping a good fuel supply thru multiple filters.  Best to keep any pump as low as possible below the supply.     The epumps have a short life when pumping air.   Keep the tank full. If you do run out of fuel, turn the pump off ASAP.

[adsm08 4,136]

I use these for removing a great many varieties of hub caps, and so far the rears on a dually truck are the only ones I've ever had issues with:

 

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/hand-tools/wrecking-bars/20349?store=18630&clientId=550c37c9ba3d0621f829ae51&locationId=643437583ca8c91e9091dd85&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19979752045&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkPzLBhD4ARIsAGfah8i2FSmcE0Y-Yi2D0XptsB_tvc8GiMfuRI4CK476-d9HYbFreEoRcG0aAp1YEALw_wcB

 

The ones I use are actually trim tools, not tack lifters, but the tack lifter is cheaper and should do that job just as well.

[peter lena 9,671]

@Ed Kennell  agree on the fuel issue ,  at some point  you have to  , go to ground zero on the  tank , cleanliness , once you achieve that , MAINTAINING  IT  IS THE SECRET , not difficult at all  , # 1  REPEDITIVE FAILURE , fuel hose breakdown , changed that all out years ago , only difference  , is sta bil  1 - 2 ounces  to every tank top off  , never  leave it empty  , nothing in  tank fuel filter  , nothing at carb filter / check valve , visible fuel to carb , all related carb linkage , moves with total ease , those were the consistent  failure areas . eliminated them , never returned . realise this is a contentious  issue , but my tractors start  , run , without  fuel hose break down , what am I doing wrong ?  still plowing today  as available , pete   

[WHX?? 54,197]

22 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

on the fuel subject ...again, 

 

23 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

fuel filter between the tank and the fuel pump

All this talk about fuel systems is bringing out the good ideas tho. 

I found these very small ones awhile back for short fuel lines and would for work good for what Ed suggested. Fits in tight spaces like wood splitters, pressure washers, push mowers etc.  

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HGJSM3L?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

 

Anyone with a rear tank should have theses on the shelf. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DM19STMB?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3&th=1