CD Long Jr 115 #1 Posted Wednesday at 10:08 PM Removed the air filter assembly. Carb & fuel bowl look good. I think there's supposed to be a rubber or teflon gasket on the screw that holds the bowl on the carb body? Exhaust value has debris in it. Should I use a pick, Dremel tool and wire brushes to clean it up or should I remove the valve? If I need to remove the valve and did my homework correctly, I have to remove the breather assembly, use a spring compressor designed for Kohler engines, compress the spring & use a flathead screwdriver with grease on the tip to remove two half-moon clips, then lift the valve out? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,366 #2 Posted Wednesday at 10:59 PM Those valves should come out to properly clean them and the ports. It appears that the seats need to be freshened and likely the valves. You should be able to find a spring compressor similar to the Kohler one on ebay. Hopefully you have downloaded the engine manual so you can service and adjust the valves correctly. The bowl may have had a fiber gasket on the screw. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 30,426 #3 Posted Wednesday at 11:25 PM 1 hour ago, CD Long Jr said: spring compressor designed for Kohler engines This is the spring compressor that I use. https://www.amazon.com/Ciuouient-19063-Compressor-Compatible-Stainless/dp/B0DQT9FJWQ/ref=sr_1_9 One of these will also do the trick. https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-compatible-Wrenches-Vehicles-Installation/dp/B0F3J3JYWD/ref=sr_1_1_sspa 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,928 #4 Posted Wednesday at 11:25 PM I agree - time to remove the valves. You need a head gasket anyway, just buy the gasket kit. It looks like there was a food fight in the port under the exhaust valve!! Do check the valve clearances prior to removal. If one or more is tighter than allowed by only a few thousandths, refacing the valve could restore that. (Yours is a 12 HP and should have adjustable tappets.) Much easier to clean the valves & ports with the valves removed. IF the exhaust seat is really pitted, that too can be reground. Note that dressing either the valve or seat affects the valve clearance.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 53,666 #5 Posted Wednesday at 11:52 PM (edited) I would just pull the valves and lap them. Wire brush things and clean up. I have the spring thingy like this ... Not ideal but a bit better than the two screw drivers that Squonky uses ... Edited Wednesday at 11:52 PM by WHX?? 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 1,747 #6 Posted yesterday at 02:24 AM 2 hours ago, Achto said: This is the spring compressor that I use. https://www.amazon.com/Ciuouient-19063-Compressor-Compatible-Stainless/dp/B0DQT9FJWQ/ref=sr_1_9 and 2 hours ago, WHX?? said: I would just pull the valves and lap them. Wire brush things and clean up. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,928 #7 Posted yesterday at 09:40 AM 9 hours ago, WHX?? said: ll the valves and lap them. Wire brush things and clean up. I have the spring thingy like this ... Not ideal but a bit better than the two scre I use the same type of spring compressor - had mine about 55 years. Back from the backyard build short track racing days... While the valves are out, chuck the stem up in a cordless drill & spin the valve to see if it bent.... Only ran across one or two from small engines. Those got replaced. Then check the valve to guide clearances. This is best done with accurate measuring tools, but a good seat-of-the-pants method is to engage the valve stem into the guide so half the shiny part is in. Now shake the valve side to side noting the movement. Next lower the valve down to where it is only about 1/4" off the seat and shake it again. That test will show it to be a tad tighter, but if the first shake was really excessive, new valves and or guides might be in order. Lapping the valves is an excellent way to visually verify the valve contact to the seat is the correct width, position on the face, and even contact all the way around. Lapping compound grit residue must be completely removed from the valve & seat prior to assembly. Clean it once, then repeat! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 53,666 #8 Posted yesterday at 02:35 PM (edited) I also have one of these CD. Handy if you plan to open more motors up. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L4BKWJ6?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title_0_0 Beats the hand lapper in a drill. Another old Indian trick is glue some strips of fine sand paper to the valve. Got that one off you tube. Edited yesterday at 02:38 PM by WHX?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 15,573 #9 Posted yesterday at 04:52 PM 17 hours ago, Achto said: This is the spring compressor that I use. https://www.amazon.com/Ciuouient-19063-Compressor-Compatible-Stainless/dp/B0DQT9FJWQ/ref=sr_1_9 I won’t say how I did valve removals/installs in my (ignorant) younger years, but this gadget is a winner for removal and replacement. Almost too easy! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
