pgiro 36 #1 Posted Wednesday at 03:57 PM I have a C-161 Auto with a Kohler K341 and I cannot seem to get this thing to run right. It's hard to start, I usually have to use starter fluid to start it, and then when it does start, I have to leave it on full choke all the time. Here's the short history: I replaced the carb with a good quality after market one from isavetractors.com The fuel pump seems fine. I've checked that it's pumping fuel several times. I checked the float and it is not stuck. Considering that I need to leave the choke on all the way for it to run, I assume that it must be a fuel/air mixture issue. The main idle screw is 2 turns out and the low idle is about 1 1/4. I've messed around with these mixture screws and it doesn't seem to be helping me. Any help in troubleshooting this would be appreciated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 76,409 #2 Posted Wednesday at 04:02 PM I have several of that engine and one Magnum 16. My experience shows me they DO NOT like aftermarket carbs. They are nearly all too small to feed that engine. I've seen two of the "Isave" carbs that have gone bad in a fairly short time. IMHO what you need to do is: 1. Replace that carb with a real one that is rebuilt properly. 2. Replace every single inch of fuel line that you have. 3. Remove, clean, and replace the fuel pump and the fuel tank. Notwithstanding all of the above, ethanol is a huge issue especially with older fuel lines and older fuel pumps that have not yet been rebuilt. 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 15,566 #3 Posted Wednesday at 05:20 PM Important to understand that for aftermarket carbs, "compatibility” does not mean faithful replica. It means it’ll probably work, @ebinmaine’s observation about throttle bores and needle valve capacity being too small (or too large) comes from one carb body often being sold as usable on too wide a range of engines. Also, for the aftermarket carbs I’ve touched, all of them had metric-threaded needle valves and none of them adhered to the OEM manual’s guidance on “initial number of turns” for valve settings. (In fairness, all three worked well enough out-of-the-box to run the engine and I was able to tweak to good performance.) It is pointless to try to use a set number of turns. I heartily recommend that the first thing to do with an aftermarket carb’s valves is count precisely how many turns it takes to gently close each as-delivered valve--it is very likely that it was the correct initial setting from the factory and now you can easily put it back in that position whenever you choose! If the engine is running and warm, then set wide open throttle (WOT). Now turn the high speed valve slowly first in one direction until the engine falters. Turn slowly back in the other direction until the engine again falters. Now turn to the midpoint of those two positions or very slightly richer (counter-clockwise). Idle the engine (to the manual-recommended idle speed!) and do the same for the idle mixture. 2 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 1,733 #4 Posted Wednesday at 06:39 PM 2 hours ago, pgiro said: I have a C-161 Auto with a Kohler K341 and I cannot seem to get this thing to run right. It's hard to start, I usually have to use starter fluid to start it, and then when it does start, I have to leave it on full choke all the time. Here's the short history: I replaced the carb with a good quality after market one from isavetractors.com The fuel pump seems fine. I've checked that it's pumping fuel several times. I checked the float and it is not stuck. Considering that I need to leave the choke on all the way for it to run, I assume that it must be a fuel/air mixture issue. The main idle screw is 2 turns out and the low idle is about 1 1/4. I've messed around with these mixture screws and it doesn't seem to be helping me. Any help in troubleshooting this would be appreciated. I have learned always always always take new carb apart and give it a good cleaning. I have seen a lot of junk in "NEW" carbs. If you haven't already it would be a good time to replace all fuel lines and filters. I include cleaning/rebuilding fuel pumps in my regular routine as well, but you might get by without messing with fuel pump, I don't chance it anymore. If the carb doesn't change while trying to adjust high speed or idle circuit, then it has trash/junk in it.. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 15,566 #5 Posted Wednesday at 08:33 PM and... 3 hours ago, Handy Don said: I heartily recommend that the first thing to do with an aftermarket carb’s valves is count precisely how many turns it takes to gently close each as-delivered valve--it is very likely that it was the correct initial setting from the factory and now you can easily put it back in that position whenever you choose! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skwerl58 772 #6 Posted yesterday at 02:28 AM Good advice and lots of experience here. I purchased a new carb for my 414-8 from I save tractors and the fuel line fitting would not tighten so they sent me another one. The new one worked fine but the tractor would not run so I removed it and took it apart, cleaned it up and it had a piece of fiber in the main jet. It has now been running fine for probably 3years. I did save my original and have had offer from EB for rebuild and may take him up on it when this one wears out. It 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pgiro 36 #7 Posted yesterday at 03:35 AM Thanks for all the excellent advice. The worst part of this is that the original carb was probably fine. The condenser went bad and it started running lousy when I idled up so I thought initially it was the carb. I attempted a rebuild of the carb and it didn't work out too well. Is there someone here who rebuilds carburetors, or are there good rebuild kits that aren't coming from China that are good quality? Thanks again.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 11,135 #8 Posted yesterday at 03:45 AM 7 minutes ago, pgiro said: I attempted a rebuild of the carb and it didn't work out too well. Share more details with us about the original carb. We may be a let walnut through a good rebuild Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 76,409 #9 Posted yesterday at 09:45 AM 7 hours ago, Skwerl58 said: . It has now been running fine for probably 3years. I did save my original and have had offer from EB for rebuild and may take him up on it when this one wears out. One of the isave carbs I had here was supposedly newer than that and no good. For the record, I can NOT verify the actual age. PO hearsay only. Carefully check the looseness of the top of the throttle shaft in its bore. 6 hours ago, pgiro said: Is there someone here who rebuilds carburetors, or are there good rebuild kits that ***** are good quality? Thanks again.. I use ONLY Kohler brand rebuild kits for the internal parts. For the two external gaskets one doesn't need to be as concerned. I do offer the service of rebuilding original Kohler carbs. Feel free to PM me for details. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 6,254 #10 Posted yesterday at 11:04 AM 19 hours ago, ebinmaine said: I have several of that engine and one Magnum 16. My experience shows me they DO NOT like aftermarket carbs. They are nearly all too small to feed that engine. I've seen two of the "Isave" carbs that have gone bad in a fairly short time. IMHO what you need to do is: 1. Replace that carb with a real one that is rebuilt properly. 2. Replace every single inch of fuel line that you have. 3. Remove, clean, and replace the fuel pump and the fuel tank. Notwithstanding all of the above, ethanol is a huge issue especially with older fuel lines and older fuel pumps that have not yet been rebuilt. Good post Eric. Something to live by. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites