Throttle Cable Issue C160

[Krice58 138]

‘75 C160 Auto 71128a spec K341. Throttle cable opens the throttle fine, but does not return to low idle on its own. I’ll include a video below. Am I missing something? Cable just worn out? Governor settings wrong? It’s been like this for as long as I can remember and I’m trying to fix it. Carb has been changed to one of the copies from IST a few years ago. Cable is original. 

[Krice58 138]

[ebinmaine 76,040]

I made this a few years ago for this same type of question. 

Just realized the video has 875 views so obviously it's a common enough issue.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Krice58 138]

11 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I made this a few years ago for this same type of question. 

Just realized the video has 875 views so obviously it's a common enough issue.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Looks like my bell crank might be positioned wrong. It doesn’t move the same way yours does. The cable on mine is pretty nasty too. I know I have one from a ‘77. I would imagine it would be the same. Thanks!

[Bar Nuthin 1,905]

@Krice58 It looks like you need to loosen the cable where it attaches to the bell crank and give a 1/4" more of relief.

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,874]

Suspect there is no casing support near the end of the cable. When you pull on the core the casing can't move because the coils are wound tight. When you push on the core the casing stretches like a spring losing the corer's effectiveness.

[peter lena 9,588]

@Krice58   have  pull return  springs on every cable , on 3 tractors , also have  SUBER LUBE  inside every cable , have it so  cable assist to close is what you want  , that   way  , any related movement is cable assisted , TO CLOSE , STOP . another thing I added was  perforated   metal  tabs in  easy  pull points , that eliminates  a lot of confusion , those metal tabs  clear things up  .  https://www.metalsdepot.com/steel-products/steel-perforated-sheet  can often get a small strip  at big box stores , whit this you can bolt to  any larger bolt  , with bigger hole   trim .  done a lot of it,  makes things  quickly  in sight , pete

[Ed Kennell 43,920]

I don't see where the throttle cable sheath is fastened. It needs to be clamped near the end.

[Krice58 138]

1 hour ago, gwest_ca said:

Suspect there is no casing support near the end of the cable. When you pull on the core the casing can't move because the coils are wound tight. When you push on the core the casing stretches like a spring losing the corer's effectiveness.

Toward the end of the cable the casing is definitely pretty nasty looking. 

[Krice58 138]

2 hours ago, Bar Nuthin said:

@Krice58 It looks like you need to loosen the cable where it attaches to the bell crank and give a 1/4" more of relief.

 

So more slack on the cable? Or pull it tighter?

[Krice58 138]

33 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

I don't see where the throttle cable sheath is fastened. It needs to be clamped near the end.

It’s hard to see but it is clamped to the valve cover under the fuel bowl. 

[sqrlgtr 1,529]

Hope this might help. Here is a pic of my c160 throttle cable, and governor set up, works great. 

[Bar Nuthin 1,905]

1 hour ago, Krice58 said:

So more slack on the cable? Or pull it tighter?

More slack

[sqrlgtr 1,529]

The one pic looks like the throttle cable may be rubbing governor arm, might be holding it not letting it idle down?

[Krice58 138]

3 hours ago, Bar Nuthin said:

More slack

That helped considerably. Still not perfect but better than it was. I just think the cable is corroded pretty bad inside. 

[ebinmaine 76,040]

7 hours ago, Krice58 said:

cable is corroded

 

 

If the cable has no kinks in it and a little extra length you could probably save it if you remove the sheath and sand the inside cable followed by an oil soaking. 

 

Remove the engine end and all the holding points. You might be able to leave it attached to the dash depending on how you need to detach the sheath on that end. 

On the big block Kohler engines the cable should be straight. No Z bend or any sharp bends anywhere.  

[sqrlgtr 1,529]

@Krice58 I forgot that I had a governor arm and bushing that was sticking a while back and had to take governor arm and bushing off and clean them up good. Just a thought..

[peter lena 9,588]

 

@Krice58    another vital I do  in every  / any set up  , is to verify  each stage , you definitely have  a  COLLECTIVE  AMOUNT OF  ISSUES , there is just  so much  thats wrong  in your  set up , do you have any cable that works / slides easily  ?  that would be my  start  point on every  spot . have nothing that  hangs up  or works with issues , everything  SEPEREATLY  MOVES WITH EASE , and a spring to  close /  idle  setting , hope you get some help ,  pete

[WHX?? 53,451]

There is supposed to be a cable clamp on the nut that holds the breather cover on. A 1/4-20 coupling nut on the breather stud with a machine screw holding the clamp on works well and spaces the cable out a bit. 

Got a pic of it in here ... somewhere ... 

 

Here it is on @Achto 's 1076

 

Never mind looks like you have it but check the bell cranks for binding. Maybe try resetting the governor. That should be done once in awhile anyway. 

Edited Saturday at 02:07 PM by WHX??

[peter lena 9,588]

@Krice58   https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Lube-Multi-Use-Synthetic-Oil-with-Syncolon-PTFE-ISO-100/51777142?  use this in all my  cables , verify  oil in / oil out , incredible temp range , also  have a light / medium extension spring  to related lever connection ?  that constant  spring pull to close , is what you want  ?  spring always  assists your  movement , quickly went over to this  decades  ago , with REPEDITIVE  ISSUE , personally  like those ?  they leave a track of  HOW ITS FAILING  , step by step , then go back and ELIMINATE  EVERY  hang up point ,  once  cured , go back and see if there is any  other  issue areas . shop around on the oil , for pricing , walmart  usually  has it . stay oily , pete 

[Krice58 138]

Now I have a runaway governor problem. Pretty sure the gear or tab on the cross shaft is broken because when doing the adjustment per the manual the cross shaft spins indefinitely, as I believe it was supposed to stop when the tab would make contact with gear. Looks like it might be time for that engine rebuild as I’m pretty sure most of it’s gotta come apart to change the gear and shaft anyways. Got a K301 I might swap in temporarily so I can still use the tractor. 

[wallfish 18,797]

8 minutes ago, Krice58 said:

Pretty sure the gear or tab on the cross shaft is broken because when doing the adjustment per the manual the cross shaft spins indefinitely

Most likely the tab has broken off of the shaft

[Krice58 138]

Pulled this sucker out of a 312-8 parts tractor I had. 47812 spec number K301. Tag on the 312 was gone I’m guessing this is mid 80s. Mounting seemed identical to K341, base plate is the same. Should just plug and play correct? Could I use the existing electrical things on my C160? Starter Solenoid? Key switch? It’s old school points like the K341. 

[ebinmaine 76,040]

Points ignition to Points ignition you should be fine there. 

 

What's the wiring connection coming outta the alternator? 

Same?

[Krice58 138]

15 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Points ignition to Points ignition you should be fine there. 

 

What's the wiring connection coming outta the alternator? 

Same?

I don’t see a regulator on the parts tractor? Would it be unregulated?