It's now confirmed...y'all are a bunch of enablers! Meet my B100 8-Speed

[BradKahler 334]

14 hours ago, AlexR said:

This! I destroyed 2 seals on one axle, until I chamfered it some more with a small file. 

 

That's 2 votes for chamfering.  I'll have to see what sort of tool/file I have available that might do the job.

 

Thanks!

[BradKahler 334]

14 hours ago, sqrlgtr said:

I have used saran wrap and a little oil over the ends of the axle to get seal started, but always deburrrrr everything good first. 

 

Was the saran wrap for getting the seal onto the shaft?  If so, I didn't have any issues in that department, the problems was getting the seals pressed into the bores.

[ebinmaine 79,144]

15 minutes ago, BradKahler said:

 

 

 

 

Chamfering sounds like a pretty good idea.  The original seals had a rubber outer housing, the SKF seals are steel with an edge to them.  I wonder if lightly chamfering the edge of the seal might help some?

 

It won't hurt but it's the transmission that really needs the angle chamfer. That's the thicker, harder metal.

[AlexR 2,990]

20 minutes ago, BradKahler said:

Was the saran wrap for getting the seal onto the shaft?  If so, I didn't have any issues in that department, the problems was getting the seals pressed into the bores.

I file the edges of the keyway and wrap it with  electrical tape to prevent damaging the seal. Also file any burrs that might be on the axle especially if there are extra set screws.

And the chamfer that often needs filing is on the transmission case. 

And then like is mentioned oil the seal up prior to installing. 

Edited June 3 by AlexR

[sqrlgtr 3,033]

1 hour ago, AlexR said:

I file the edges of the keyway and wrap it with  electrical tape to prevent damaging the seal. Also file any burrs that might be on the axle especially if there are extra set screws.

And the chamfer that often needs filing is on the transmission case. 

And then like is mentioned oil the seal up prior to installing. 

 

@BradKahler "Was the saran wrap for getting the seal onto the shaft?  If so, I didn't have any issues in that department, the problems was getting the seals pressed into the bores."

 

oh misunderstood never had any trouble going into case (knock on wood) but I have made seal drivers that are true/sqaure on the seal side that really helps.

Edited June 3 by sqrlgtr

[953 nut 66,598]

I have used a piece of inch and a quarter Schedule 80 PVC pipe to tap on driving the seals into the housing with a 1 1/8" axle.

[BradKahler 334]

On 6/3/2026 at 8:53 AM, ebinmaine said:

 

It won't hurt but it's the transmission that really needs the angle chamfer. That's the thicker, harder metal.

 

On 6/3/2026 at 9:00 AM, AlexR said:

I file the edges of the keyway and wrap it with  electrical tape to prevent damaging the seal. Also file any burrs that might be on the axle especially if there are extra set screws.

And the chamfer that often needs filing is on the transmission case. 

And then like is mentioned oil the seal up prior to installing. 

 

One of the two replacement seals showed up yesterday so I found my chamfering tool and used it to chamfer the axle housing.  It worked out better than I expected.  The ball on the end of the tool pressed against the ball bearing race which provided a solid backing for running the tool round the rim of the opening.  After cutting the chamfer I used a vacuum to suck out any iron particles left behind.

 

 

Installing the seal worked smoothly and easily.  I do believe it's time to replace the cutting tip.  I went ahead and chamfered the other axle opening and now I get to wait 10 days for the 2nd seal to arrive 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 5 by BradKahler

[BradKahler 334]

On 6/4/2026 at 8:36 AM, 953 nut said:

I have used a piece of inch and a quarter Schedule 80 PVC pipe to tap on driving the seals into the housing with a 1 1/8" axle.

 

I have a piece of iron pipe I bored out on the lathe for a slip fit over the axle shaft.  It worked nicely.

[BradKahler 334]

While cleaning up the wiring I found that the clutch safety switch wiring was gone.  I pulled the switch to clean and test and it checked out ok.  What kind of electrical connector is used on these switches?  I'm guessint a 1/4" female spade connector, but I'd like to be sure before rewiring things.

 

Thanks!

 

[AlexR 2,990]

My safety switches have brass studs for a ring connector.  

 

Looks like yours is different maybe someone with a later year tractor then mine can tell you.

Edited June 5 by AlexR

[953 nut 66,598]

The electric terminals that would connect to the posts would be a Packard 56 female which should be available at any Good auto parts store. The housing they insert into ( 36 ) is Wheel Horse part # 106024, unfortunately it is shown as no longer available on parts tree. Perhaps someone has a used wiring harness that has the housing or you may be able to find a housing that you could modify for this. Looking at DelCity's website I see that the four terminal female housing may work, the auto parts store may have one of them too.

https://www.delcity.net/store/wire-connectors-quick-splices/packard-56-series-electrical-connectors/female-4-contact/

[Handy Don 16,751]

Here is a 2-cavity side mount that is what you need to slip onto the two flat-topped pins.

Just be sure to orient the female connectors with their metal slots aligned with the openings in the housing!

 

Edited June 6 by Handy Don

[BradKahler 334]

12 hours ago, 953 nut said:

The electric terminals that would connect to the posts would be a Packard 56 female which should be available at any Good auto parts store. The housing they insert into ( 36 ) is Wheel Horse part # 106024, unfortunately it is shown as no longer available on parts tree. Perhaps someone has a used wiring harness that has the housing or you may be able to find a housing that you could modify for this. Looking at DelCity's website I see that the four terminal female housing may work, the auto parts store may have one of them too.

https://www.delcity.net/store/wire-connectors-quick-splices/packard-56-series-electrical-connectors/female-4-contact/

 

11 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Here is a 2-cavity side mount that is what you need to slip onto the two flat-topped pins.

Just be sure to orient the female connectors with their metal slots aligned with the openings in the housing!

 

 

Thanks for the leads on the correct plug   

 

Using the information provided I found this female plug on Amazon, 2P FEMALE BLACK 56 SERIES.  I ordered a couple of them, I didn't order the electrical connectors because I think I have the correct Delphi connectors in my stash of crimp connectors.  

 

Thanks!!!

[BradKahler 334]

Today was a good day. 

 

I couldn't figure out why the ammeter wasn't showing a charge, after some checking I found that the ignition switch was only working on the (B)attery, (S)tart, and (I)gnition terminals.  The (R)ectifier terminal was not making contact inside the switch.  

 

This past week I wrapped up rewiring the entire machine, replaced the ignition switch that turned out to be bad, filled the gearbox with Kerosene, and got a seat installed. 

 

So this morning I spent about 5 to 10 minutes slowly driving around my shop using the Kerosene to clean any sludge out of the gearbox.  I then used my gantry crane to raise the front of the tractor to about 40 degrees and drained the Kerosene, it came out a light brown color.  Next step is to fill with gear oil. 

 

I have a question about the 8-speed dipstick.  Do you take the reading with the dipstick fully inserted into the filler tube, or do you take the reading with the dipstick resting on top of the filler tube?  

[ebinmaine 79,144]

49 minutes ago, BradKahler said:

drained the Kerosene, it came out a light brown color.  Next step is to fill with gear oil. 

 

 

I'd be prone to run the K1 through again. 

Double flush is good. 

 

 

 

49 minutes ago, BradKahler said:

 

I have a question about the 8-speed dipstick.  Do you take the reading with the dipstick fully inserted into the filler tube, or do you take the reading with the dipstick resting on top of the filler tube? 

 

We do fully inserted. 

Capacity is two quarts.