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ri702bill

C Series Clutch Shaft Frame Bearings

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mrc

nice work!

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Retired Wrencher

Looks like you have some nice tools to get the job done. A big :handgestures-thumbupright:

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ebinmaine

Very nice work here Bill. 

 

That's the type of lathe I'd like to have someday. 

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Retired Wrencher
2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Very nice work here Bill. 

 

That's the type of lathe I'd like to have someday. 

Eric, I’m sure if you found one it would be big dollars. But like you said it’d be nice to have one. Enjoy your weekend.

Edited by Retired Wrencher
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ri702bill
2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Very nice work here Bill. 

 

That's the type of lathe I'd like to have someday. 

Thanks. Google "ShopSmith" - it is a clever versatile tool. Setup horizontally, it can be a lathe, a horizontal drill, a table saw, or a disc sander. Set up vertically, it is a drill press with a 3 foot throat opening! Later versions modified the tilting saw table to become a small bandsaw too. The three motor speeds as supplied are achieved with stepped pulleys. This application has a larger driven pulley to slow it down... Latest version has a built-in variable speed control. It does a lot, but with compromises... and the components are heavy!

"Big Dollars"?? Maybe not.... this one, although not complete, was FREE - I had to get the Jacobs chuck & key, the 3 quill handles were missing too.

I use it mostly as a vertical drill to touchup small engine valve seats using tapered mounted stones. Works well for that.

Edited by ri702bill
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953 nut
9 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

It does a lot, but with compromises

If a person is well organized and has limited space the Shop Smith is a good alternative to a well equipped woodworking shop. The biggest drawback is setting everything up for the next operation, can take an hour of setup to do a ten minute job, but it got the job done for you.     :woohoo:

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peter lena

@ri702bill  good idea / nice work , always after  any repetitive  problem  , and how to eradicate it , regularly  look at a change , as to  function , needs a tweak ?  or good to go ?  my first thought at looking at your frame ?  perfect time to lay in a frame length  5/16  steel break line ?  tucks right into the upper  inner corner  of  frame , eliminating  a lot of  fuel hose break down debris  , extend out each end of frame , and cap off  ?  then its just a short run from tank  , and to carb with a fuel resistant hose .  BTW  have also experimented with  bronze lube , obviousely  lucas green , but also super lube hydraulic oil . extreme temp range and loading  makes this stay with tough spots , every inch of my cables has super lube as well as a  spring pull assist to close / stop ?  that spring set up assists every move . might also add a  small  perforated  metal  pull point  for that spring assist , your shop set up  is easy to see  a what if  ?  type of experiment , regularly do that , pete      

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ebinmaine
22 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

The biggest drawback is setting everything up for the next operation, can take an hour of setup to do a ten minute job,

 

That's a patience struggle for me at times. But I've been learning to invest in my own time instead of bringing work elsewhere  - when it's practical. 

I figure the drive time I've occasionally saved along with whatever learning experience I encounter is a win. 

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ri702bill
12 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

along with whatever learning experience

That is what makes it all worth it. Remember, it's a hobby. If you don't finish it today, it'll be waiting there tomorrow. :thumbs2:

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ebinmaine
47 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

That is what makes it all worth it. Remember, it's a hobby. If you don't finish it today, it'll be waiting there tomorrow. :thumbs2:

 

It's a hobby...yes... but more than that to us here. 

It's our independence. Our acreage management. Our future. 

 

Sometimes we need things done that day and can't wait til the next. Snow plowing to leave the yard for work for example. 

Thats why we keep multiple tractors for different tasks.  

If/when repairs or maintenance is needed we still have a backup. 

 

Having the proper tools and skills has been an absolute game changer for us at times.  

 

 

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8ntruck

I'll add that there Shopsmith system was designed to be primarily a wood working tool.  But with proper tooling, feeds, and speeds, light metal work is possible.  The ridigity of the machine limits the metal working capability.

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ri702bill
1 hour ago, 8ntruck said:

The ridigity of the machine limits the metal working capability.

Agreed. I'm not trying to be a hero and plow thru the frame in one pass. Drilling in progressive small steps - first .531 diameter, then .547, then .562, and .591. Then ream to .625 diameter. All light material removal & small chips.

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953 nut
13 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Agreed. I'm not trying to be a hero and plow thru the frame in one pass. Drilling in progressive small steps - first .531 diameter, then .547, then .562, and .591. Then ream to .625 diameter. All light material removal & small chips.

That is the best way I've found to turn an oval back into a round hole.

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Handy Don
21 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Agreed. I'm not trying to be a hero and plow thru the frame in one pass. Drilling in progressive small steps - first .531 diameter, then .547, then .562, and .591. Then ream to .625 diameter. All light material removal & small chips.

And there is always the question of where should the center actually be? Sometimes it matters little and sometimes a lot!

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ri702bill
Just now, 953 nut said:

That is the best way I've found to turn an oval back into a round hole.

Funny you mention that. Two reasons. While sweeping the bore for the best lineup, the existing hole is elongated. Gotta go slow.

 

The next task is to drill & ream the Axle pivot & spindle holes for bushings. All show elongation of the original bores. One of the spindle holes looks to be centered on one end of the casting - the exit is off center by almost 1/8", partially due to wear - leaving a very thin wall. The plan will be to move the hole away from the thin wall using a boring head in the milling machine to reestablish a round bore

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ri702bill
1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

And there is always the question of where should the center actually be? Sometimes it matters little and sometimes a lot!

The second time I worked at Brown & Sharpe I was in the Validator Department. First assembling, then calibrating the CMM's.

A lot of folks used a CMM (Coordinate Measuring Machine) to reverse engineer damaged parts when there were no drawings available to repair / remake that part. The CMM program could determine the original center of elongated or wallowed out holes digitally!

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Wishin4a416

I got one of those. I use it mostly for drill press and disc sander. The wife uses it for storage. Lol.

IMG_8616.jpg

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Handy Don
4 minutes ago, Wishin4a416 said:

I got one of those. I use it mostly for drill press and disc sander. The wife uses it for storage. Lol.

IMG_8616.jpg

At Bill’s mention, and curious, I did searched CL for ShopSmith in my vicinity. A Mark 5 with only table saw and jointer for $75 and another with “the works” in upgrades asking $6,000.

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ri702bill
10 minutes ago, Wishin4a416 said:

The wife uses it for storage. Lol.

Then flip it up to the Vertical post position so that things will fall off!!! :laughing-rolling:

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ri702bill
5 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

At Bill’s mention, and curious, I did searched CL for ShopSmith in my vicinity. A Mark 5 with only table saw and jointer for $75 and another with “the works” in upgrades asking $6,000.

So... somewhere between almost worthless and "priceless"... Including a new V belt, I've still got way less than $100 invested in mine.

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ri702bill

Got me curious - here's one in nearby CT - a newer version with lots of toys. Under $400... Others nearby priced for even less.

 

Product photo of Shop Smith - woodworking

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