ri702bill 10,618 #1 Posted 18 hours ago There was a fair amount of wear on the ends of the C81 Clutch Shaft where it goes thru the frame. Metal on metal, no bearings & not easily lubricated. I installed the bronze bushings on the 502 frame a while back, using the milling machine. The C Series has two sets of welded 3/4" diameter rods to hold the foot rests, the rear ones were in the way - could not do this in the milling machine. There were 3 choices - cut the rear rods off & reweld them later, do the work by hand, or - break out the 1950's ShopSmith 10E and use it. I went with option #3 - while the assembly & setup are extensive, it gives the best results. Pictures are for the RH bearing: the setup needs to come apart and be reassembled opposite hand to do the left. 18 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 6,173 #3 Posted 8 hours ago Looks like you have some nice tools to get the job done. A big 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 75,791 #4 Posted 8 hours ago Very nice work here Bill. That's the type of lathe I'd like to have someday. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 6,173 #5 Posted 8 hours ago (edited) 2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Very nice work here Bill. That's the type of lathe I'd like to have someday. Eric, I’m sure if you found one it would be big dollars. But like you said it’d be nice to have one. Enjoy your weekend. Edited 8 hours ago by Retired Wrencher 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,618 #6 Posted 6 hours ago (edited) 2 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Very nice work here Bill. That's the type of lathe I'd like to have someday. Thanks. Google "ShopSmith" - it is a clever versatile tool. Setup horizontally, it can be a lathe, a horizontal drill, a table saw, or a disc sander. Set up vertically, it is a drill press with a 3 foot throat opening! Later versions modified the tilting saw table to become a small bandsaw too. The three motor speeds as supplied are achieved with stepped pulleys. This application has a larger driven pulley to slow it down... Latest version has a built-in variable speed control. It does a lot, but with compromises... and the components are heavy! "Big Dollars"?? Maybe not.... this one, although not complete, was FREE - I had to get the Jacobs chuck & key, the 3 quill handles were missing too. I use it mostly as a vertical drill to touchup small engine valve seats using tapered mounted stones. Works well for that. Edited 5 hours ago by ri702bill 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 63,089 #7 Posted 5 hours ago 9 minutes ago, ri702bill said: It does a lot, but with compromises If a person is well organized and has limited space the Shop Smith is a good alternative to a well equipped woodworking shop. The biggest drawback is setting everything up for the next operation, can take an hour of setup to do a ten minute job, but it got the job done for you. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,562 #8 Posted 5 hours ago @ri702bill good idea / nice work , always after any repetitive problem , and how to eradicate it , regularly look at a change , as to function , needs a tweak ? or good to go ? my first thought at looking at your frame ? perfect time to lay in a frame length 5/16 steel break line ? tucks right into the upper inner corner of frame , eliminating a lot of fuel hose break down debris , extend out each end of frame , and cap off ? then its just a short run from tank , and to carb with a fuel resistant hose . BTW have also experimented with bronze lube , obviousely lucas green , but also super lube hydraulic oil . extreme temp range and loading makes this stay with tough spots , every inch of my cables has super lube as well as a spring pull assist to close / stop ? that spring set up assists every move . might also add a small perforated metal pull point for that spring assist , your shop set up is easy to see a what if ? type of experiment , regularly do that , pete 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 75,791 #9 Posted 5 hours ago 22 minutes ago, 953 nut said: The biggest drawback is setting everything up for the next operation, can take an hour of setup to do a ten minute job, That's a patience struggle for me at times. But I've been learning to invest in my own time instead of bringing work elsewhere - when it's practical. I figure the drive time I've occasionally saved along with whatever learning experience I encounter is a win. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,618 #10 Posted 5 hours ago 12 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: along with whatever learning experience That is what makes it all worth it. Remember, it's a hobby. If you don't finish it today, it'll be waiting there tomorrow. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 75,791 #11 Posted 4 hours ago 47 minutes ago, ri702bill said: That is what makes it all worth it. Remember, it's a hobby. If you don't finish it today, it'll be waiting there tomorrow. It's a hobby...yes... but more than that to us here. It's our independence. Our acreage management. Our future. Sometimes we need things done that day and can't wait til the next. Snow plowing to leave the yard for work for example. Thats why we keep multiple tractors for different tasks. If/when repairs or maintenance is needed we still have a backup. Having the proper tools and skills has been an absolute game changer for us at times. 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 8,357 #12 Posted 3 hours ago I'll add that there Shopsmith system was designed to be primarily a wood working tool. But with proper tooling, feeds, and speeds, light metal work is possible. The ridigity of the machine limits the metal working capability. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,618 #13 Posted 2 hours ago 1 hour ago, 8ntruck said: The ridigity of the machine limits the metal working capability. Agreed. I'm not trying to be a hero and plow thru the frame in one pass. Drilling in progressive small steps - first .531 diameter, then .547, then .562, and .591. Then ream to .625 diameter. All light material removal & small chips. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 63,089 #14 Posted 2 hours ago 13 minutes ago, ri702bill said: Agreed. I'm not trying to be a hero and plow thru the frame in one pass. Drilling in progressive small steps - first .531 diameter, then .547, then .562, and .591. Then ream to .625 diameter. All light material removal & small chips. That is the best way I've found to turn an oval back into a round hole. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 15,233 #15 Posted 2 hours ago 21 minutes ago, ri702bill said: Agreed. I'm not trying to be a hero and plow thru the frame in one pass. Drilling in progressive small steps - first .531 diameter, then .547, then .562, and .591. Then ream to .625 diameter. All light material removal & small chips. And there is always the question of where should the center actually be? Sometimes it matters little and sometimes a lot! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,618 #16 Posted 2 hours ago Just now, 953 nut said: That is the best way I've found to turn an oval back into a round hole. Funny you mention that. Two reasons. While sweeping the bore for the best lineup, the existing hole is elongated. Gotta go slow. The next task is to drill & ream the Axle pivot & spindle holes for bushings. All show elongation of the original bores. One of the spindle holes looks to be centered on one end of the casting - the exit is off center by almost 1/8", partially due to wear - leaving a very thin wall. The plan will be to move the hole away from the thin wall using a boring head in the milling machine to reestablish a round bore 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,618 #17 Posted 43 minutes ago 1 hour ago, Handy Don said: And there is always the question of where should the center actually be? Sometimes it matters little and sometimes a lot! The second time I worked at Brown & Sharpe I was in the Validator Department. First assembling, then calibrating the CMM's. A lot of folks used a CMM (Coordinate Measuring Machine) to reverse engineer damaged parts when there were no drawings available to repair / remake that part. The CMM program could determine the original center of elongated or wallowed out holes digitally! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishin4a416 2,318 #18 Posted 32 minutes ago I got one of those. I use it mostly for drill press and disc sander. The wife uses it for storage. Lol. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 15,233 #19 Posted 26 minutes ago 4 minutes ago, Wishin4a416 said: I got one of those. I use it mostly for drill press and disc sander. The wife uses it for storage. Lol. At Bill’s mention, and curious, I did searched CL for ShopSmith in my vicinity. A Mark 5 with only table saw and jointer for $75 and another with “the works” in upgrades asking $6,000. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,618 #20 Posted 20 minutes ago 10 minutes ago, Wishin4a416 said: The wife uses it for storage. Lol. Then flip it up to the Vertical post position so that things will fall off!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,618 #21 Posted 17 minutes ago 5 minutes ago, Handy Don said: At Bill’s mention, and curious, I did searched CL for ShopSmith in my vicinity. A Mark 5 with only table saw and jointer for $75 and another with “the works” in upgrades asking $6,000. So... somewhere between almost worthless and "priceless"... Including a new V belt, I've still got way less than $100 invested in mine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,618 #22 Posted 12 minutes ago Got me curious - here's one in nearby CT - a newer version with lots of toys. Under $400... Others nearby priced for even less. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites