SylvanLakeWH 29,787 #2 Posted 16 hours ago (edited) looks great! I don't think the slight blade side movement is a big deal. Frame stability yes. Id keep angle bar on. It could be functional in some instances. Leave springs - why not? Big plows have rubber flaps across top. I'd go with what you have for a bolt on 6-8" over hang... Edited 16 hours ago by SylvanLakeWH 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 75,663 #3 Posted 15 hours ago 11 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said: don't think the slight blade side movement is a big deal. My concern there is, keeping in mind that this whole assembly needs to follow a fore n aft line of movement with the tractor, the bottom skids will wear prematurely and grab things in the pathways if they're not straight. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 9,279 #4 Posted 15 hours ago I like it, nice to see them in use. Yep need to add on the top of the blade. I am going to follow this one because I am kicking around another setup for the FEL Can't wait to see an action vid! Here they are before they migrated north east. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 15,109 #5 Posted 15 hours ago (edited) I endorse fixing the anti-wiggle bracket, even though you won’t be casting snow to either side. Power and traction you’ve got aplenty so raising the top (and sides?) to permit a larger volume of snow-- sure! As for the springs, even with the side rails, they could ease the impact of catching the bottom on something--the motion would pivot around the leading corners of the sides. Another possibility? Remove them to would allow the blade to “float” in conformance with terrain. You would need a chain or cable to limit the “droop” so you could lift the plow completely off the ground. Edited 15 hours ago by Handy Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 75,663 #6 Posted 14 hours ago 46 minutes ago, JoeM said: an action vid! I'll try to remember to get one for you tomorrow. 43 minutes ago, Handy Don said: Remove [the springs] would allow the blade to “float” in conformance with terrain. You would need a chain or cable to limit the “droop” so you could lift the plow completely off the ground. Now that's an interesting thought! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,548 #7 Posted 11 hours ago Eric - you more than doubled the force on the Unidrive bracket with the scoop compared to a regular 42" plow with all that mass of snow. My concern is our old friend the "F" plate getting cracked and failing. WH used to offer a plate reinforcement kit, but it is NLA... You saw my diagonal bolt-in braces on my C81 and the 854 8 speed. That stops the plate flex. Maybe you will want to do something similar?? Side plates - how about a lower side pivot in line with the trip rod centerline and the top one rides in a radiused "smiley face" cutout following the motion of the plow to allow the blade to trip, yet the sides remain on the ground and upright?? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 75,663 #8 Posted 8 hours ago 3 hours ago, ri702bill said: Eric - you more than doubled the force on the Unidrive bracket with the scoop compared to a regular 42" plow with all that mass of snow. My concern is our old friend the "F" plate getting cracked and failing. WH used to offer a plate reinforcement kit, but it is NLA... You saw my diagonal bolt-in braces on my C81 and the 854 8 speed. That stops the plate flex. Maybe you will want to do something similar?? This is the tractor we built a few years ago specifically with plowing snow in mind. The frame F plate is already doubled up. Remember... I've been using the BIG 60" wide plow for a couple seasons. 3 hours ago, ri702bill said: Side plates - how about a lower side pivot in line with the trip rod centerline and the top one rides in a radiused "smiley face" cutout following the motion of the plow to allow the blade to trip, yet the sides remain on the ground and upright?? In principle I like the idea of having the center moldboard free to pivot forward and keeping the sides free to pivot on their own. I did try to set it up as such. However.... in actual practical usage that just doesn't work. The side plates are just plain floppy if I leave them ANY kind of loose enough to pivot. That said.... the ability to trip this plow is really no longer necessary. We've been maintaining and modifying the yard to make it as plow friendly as possible for 6 or 8 years. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 9,279 #9 Posted 4 hours ago 3 hours ago, ebinmaine said: the center moldboard free to pivot forward and keeping the sides free to pivot on their own Interested in this. Original thought was to have the sides pivot and follow the contour of the ground, but not flop down and hit the ground when raised. Looks like that was unnecessary. Looking at all the commercial ones, they are all fixed. Maybe a little over thinking? 3 hours ago, ebinmaine said: ability to trip this plow I have been plowing the same driveways for almost 4 decades. I can only remember my plow tripping once and that was recent using the FEL. Was at the neighbors approach and the state road was redone by the state. I had a lot of down pressure and caught the edge where the did not do a good job matching it up. Shucks, I had and original plow that was fixed with no springs for 15 years. Pushed dirt in summer, snow in winter. It had an 11 ga blade for snow, and a 1/2" one dirt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
