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NCSteve

How do I lift my box blade?

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NCSteve

I finally got my box blade assembled and attached to my C120 with my clevis/sleeve hitch. I have hooked up the chain to my clevis hitch,but I cannot raise the box blade using the lift handle. I am not strong enough! Is there a solution for this problem other than the Charles Atlas strength building program?

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ebinmaine
31 minutes ago, NCSteve said:

strength building program?

 

Just do that... it'll be good for you.  

 

Or...

 

Perhaps a way to utilize a heavy spring? 

 

There is an assist spring for snowblowers and rear mounted tillers.  

 

 

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JCM
58 minutes ago, NCSteve said:

 Charles Atlas strength building program?

The man who was instrumental in my weight lifting program at the young age of 13. Purchased a Sears & Roebuck Barbell / Dumbell set with money earned mowing lawns. Continued working out for 19 years off and on    :thumbs:   with a much better weight system.

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SylvanLakeWH

This works... atv winch from Harbor Freight. 

 

 

IMG_2382.jpeg

IMG_3663.jpeg

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953 nut

:WRS:

@SylvanLakeWH has your answer, I think he did a thread on the project, perhaps he will post it.

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SylvanLakeWH

Here ya go - originally on my E-141, transferred to my C-105 when I sold the E-141.

 

 

Here's the back blade video.

 

I'm actually adding a front winch lift to the same tractor as we speak. Same design as my C-105.

 

Rear lift works great.

 

Edited by SylvanLakeWH
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kpinnc

Wondering if you could move the front clevis on the lift cable up one hole at the bellcrank? You'll loose some travel but increase leverage...

 

The diagram below shows using the bottom hole for the rear lift. Maybe try the next one up? 

 

Just spit balling. I have no idea if it would work or not. 

 

 

 

 

Screenshot_20251206_230630_Chrome.jpg

Edited by kpinnc
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ineedanother
7 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

Wondering if you could move the front clevis on the lift cable up one hole at the bellcrank? You'll loose some travel but increase leverage...

 

 

Shortening the tongue on the box blade could be significant as well. No idea what you're lifting but the greater the distance from the hinge point, the heavier the lift which is a greater strain on all of the lifting components.

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ineedanother
1 hour ago, kpinnc said:

Wondering if you could move the front clevis on the lift cable up one hole at the bellcrank? You'll loose some travel but increase leverage...

 

The diagram below shows using the bottom hole for the rear lift. Maybe try the next one up? 

 

Just spit balling. I have no idea if it would work or not. 

 

 

You might also consider the attachment point on the box blade. Altering connection point on the implement will change the ratio of distance and angles between the levers and pivot point. Essentially like gear reduction to sacrifice output (like slower steering response or less implement movement) in exchange for less energy needed on the lever or steering wheel. Lengthening the lever on the tractor (or installing a larger steering wheel) would be similar but not always practical.

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NCSteve

Thanks for all the great suggestions. I will consider all of them. I am also considering some easily removable wheels just for transport.

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wallfish
1 hour ago, NCSteve said:

considering some easily removable wheels just for transport.

Maybe consider making the wheels retractable instead of removable????? Probably use large casters so they don't scrape the ground when turning. Wheels would also be useful for moving it around when it's not attached to the tractor

There's lots of ways to add a 12v winch as suggested

Implementing a trailer jack is another option. To lift it, control the wheels to lift it and retract them, jack it up so the lift lever mechanism can lock to hold it up then retract it, ect ect ect.

 

Something like this, maybe attached to the rear or one on each side?

Just spit balling ideas

2056925243_trailerjack.jpg.45ac303cac76dae51fe7853825695300.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by wallfish

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