BradKahler 238 #101 Posted yesterday at 07:53 PM (edited) After much thinking about it I think I've sort out just where I stand with the K341 oil pan situation. When I got the engine it had this oil pan on it. After poking around on the internet I found that other pans might work so I found this one and ordered it. It obviously wouldn't fit my K341 so I started looking again. After looking some more I came up with the oil pan in this picture. Here is a different view of the pan that I bought. The question I have is would this engine fit on a B100 chassis? I think the crank diameter is 1" but I need to verify that number. After more research I found this thread about Wheel Horse Shaker engines. I think the oil pan I have is the same as on the shaker engines. Edited yesterday at 08:00 PM by BradKahler Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 15,413 #102 Posted yesterday at 08:18 PM As far as the hubs turning question... WHs (mostly) used an “open” differential. This means that, if both wheels are off the ground, turning one wheel will cause the other wheel to rotate in the opposite direction with little resistance. This is true for hydros and geared transaxles. It’s more complicated if one wheel is on the ground... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 238 #103 Posted yesterday at 09:27 PM 1 hour ago, Handy Don said: As far as the hubs turning question... WHs (mostly) used an “open” differential. This means that, if both wheels are off the ground, turning one wheel will cause the other wheel to rotate in the opposite direction with little resistance. This is true for hydros and geared transaxles. It’s more complicated if one wheel is on the ground... I checked the hubs this morning and as you described, turning one rotates the other in the opposite direction. If I try to rotate both in the same direction at the same time, they won't rotate (tow valve screwed tight). The grinding and stalling the engine is what really concerns me. I've done a bunch of searching and found some description of the linkages and how they wear, etc. but I don't see any of those issues on mine. So I'm at a loss as to what to look for next. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,388 #104 Posted yesterday at 11:08 PM Time to look at the manual 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,388 #105 Posted 23 hours ago There is a roll pin (#39) in between the brake lever and the shaft that goes inside the tranny, if it shears the parking pawl may not dispense even when the lever is moved. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 238 #106 Posted 23 hours ago 58 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Time to look at the manual Thanks for the link , looks like I've got some reading to do. If the work requires the hydro unit to be removed then this tractor might have to be put on the back burner. With the motor most likely needing internal work and the same for the hydro unit, I don’t have excess room for two tractors to be in pieces (i.e. the 656). It might be time for this tractor to swap places with the B100 8-speed to see what condition it's in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 238 #107 Posted 23 hours ago 37 minutes ago, pfrederi said: There is a roll pin (#39) in between the brake lever and the shaft that goes inside the tranny, if it shears the parking pawl may not dispense even when the lever is moved. Oops, I missed this reply. I believe these two pictures show the arm #38 from the diagram above. I can confirm that the arm does move when operating the brake handle. However, I can't say that the roll pin isn't broken and the arm may be moving only partially. I will look closer at the arm/roll pin tomorrow to see how it looks. Thanks for the tip! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 238 #108 Posted 2 hours ago I took a closer look at the linkage for the parking brake and it does have some slop in it. The attached picture shows a little bit of wear in the stud on the parking brake lever. Compared to some pictures I found while searching, this one doesn't look all that bad. I've also included a short video showing the Brake Lever Slop in the parking brake linkage. The video doesn't show it too well but the arm with the pin does move up and down a little bit. Are there ways to tight up the slop or do I live with it? In order to help troubleshoot, would it be beneficial to hold or clamp the brake lever a little lower than where it is currently being pushed to by the brake lever? Or does that make any sense at all? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
