312-8, 1985

[Handy Don 15,641]

2 hours ago, Stan50 said:

except just one small bolt sleeve/spacer in the lift assembly, but this is not real problem.

Welcome to the Forum 

Those spacers are essential for maintaining proper alignment of the lift mechanism. Look into replacing it!

[Stan50 54]

 yes,sir! I meant - "not real problem"  =  I'm going to get or fabricate mentioned spacer  

[ebinmaine 76,557]

3 hours ago, Stan50 said:

 yes,sir! I meant - "not real problem"  =  I'm going to get or fabricate mentioned spacer  

 

One of the great things about Redsquare is our Vendors Section. 

 

@76c12091520h is the handle for Brian Badman. 

Excellent guy. 

 

Over the years Wheelhorse company used many "Standard Parts".

Many of the bearings, seals, fasteners etc are easily accessed from places like McMaster Carr or Bolt Depot. 

 

 

[Stan50 54]

I'm gonna gather up some parts here in Poland. Although I was in US many times, next time I'll be there for parts . I lived in Canada many years, but never seen one WH. I have some friends in US, eventually when I buy something online  they'll help with shipping ..

[Stan50 54]

On 11/30/2025 at 3:38 PM, Stan50 said:

Throttle works properly but yes, I definitely look forward to it

 

I just examined Manual for 1985 312-8 with K301S engine, looks like this throttle cable setup on engine cover is correct,good for me  . Above this "1 screw high level setup" for throttle cable is bracket for choke cable.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 5, 2025 by Stan50

[Stan50 54]

My K301 starter drive, some teeth are worn. Should I worry and buy that drive in advance ? Right now everything works smoothly I don't have any problems with starting engine.

 

 

 

 

[953 nut 63,577]

4 hours ago, Stan50 said:

Should I worry and buy that drive in advance

If parts availability is not easy where you live it would be good to buy in advance.

[Brockport Bill 2,178]

bought a 312-8 new in 1989 - still have it 36 years later - over 2,000 hours --- always had enough power for every use - plowing, tiller, cart hauling, mowing, etc - - simple to maintain - son, daughter and now 4 grandsons all learned the basics of operating and tool use at early age - One suggestion if you have not already looked ? Check the underneath frame plate that connects tractor to transmission to be sure there is not a stress crack which can happen on wh from prior heavy plow or tiller use.

[Handy Don 15,641]

7 hours ago, Stan50 said:

My K301 starter drive, some teeth are worn. Should I worry and buy that drive in advance ? Right now everything works smoothly I don't have any problems with starting engine.

The teeth on starter motors are often beveled at the ends to ease engagement with flywheel teeth as the bendix pushes the gear outward. There may be less wear than you think. 

I do’t see any corresponding wear on the edges of your flywheel teeth. 

That said, if having this machine sidelined while sourcing a replacement starter is untenable, then a spare might be a good investment. 

[8ntruck 8,479]

  I used to work witha guy who flew scout helicopters for the Army in the middle east.  One of his sayings was "spare parts are life".

Edited December 6, 2025 by 8ntruck

[Stan50 54]

1 hour ago, Brockport Bill said:

 One suggestion if you have not already looked ? Check the underneath frame plate that connects tractor to transmission to be sure there is not a stress crack which can happen on wh from prior heavy plow or tiller use.

 

 

 

 thank you for tip, looks like that part of the frame is OK, but higher, where first tube is, there is crack? I think..

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 6, 2025 by Stan50

[Stan50 54]

1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

The teeth on starter motors are often beveled at the ends to ease engagement with flywheel teeth as the bendix pushes the gear outward. There may be less wear than you think. 

I do’t see any corresponding wear on the edges of your flywheel teeth. 

That said, if having this machine sidelined while sourcing a replacement starter is untenable, then a spare might be a good investment. 

I wrote down a few spare parts and worn out ones, so I will order them soon.

[Handy Don 15,641]

35 minutes ago, Stan50 said:

 

 

Edited 30 minutes ago by Stan50

Cracks can easily be small and concealed by dirt. Clean thoroughly before final judgement!

[Stan50 54]

Right, I took the picture in a hurry, I will check this tomorrow 

 

 

Ok, looks solid to me,no cracks.

Edited December 8, 2025 by Stan50
checked again

[Stan50 54]

As I mentioned I need to stash some parts in advance and I started doing it. I've ordered belts,points, spark plug cable kit, etc.  I think to order starter repair kit and drive for my starter, I found this diagram and 118 brush kit, drive kit ( I think that I need just a gear) but I'm not sure..

 

 

My starter looks almost identical, no number on it

 

 

 

Rebuilding the starter is always better than buing aftermarket one? Maybe do you know eventually good aftermarket replacement?

Edited December 14, 2025 by Stan50
more info

[Handy Don 15,641]

15 minutes ago, Stan50 said:

Rebuilding the starter is always better than buying aftermarket one

A sluggish but working starter is nearly always rebuildable.

Fatal issues are when the windings in the shell or armature are compromised (shorts caused by overheating or attempts to clean with solvents), or the commutator on the armature (where it contacts the brushes) is badly worn or gouged. 

Clean with air (and protective clothing), add relief between armature contacts, and replace brushes and/or bearings as needed and a sluggish starter will miraculously come alive. 

[Stan50 54]

So rebuild kit with brushes is way to go,anyway? I'm not sure whether my starter is original, looks old and proper one 

[Handy Don 15,641]

20 hours ago, Stan50 said:

So rebuild kit with brushes is way to go,anyway? I'm not sure whether my starter is original, looks old and proper one 

I haven’t worked on that specific kind of starter so I cannot confirm one way or another. 

In general, the rebuild kits are not pricey. Since I prefer not getting partway through something to then have to order parts I do the kit and then replace what is needed. Last one I worked on needed only cleaning, some very minor filing on the mica separating the commutator contacts, and one new bearing. The rest (brushes, connector posts, and the other bearing) are now on my spares shelf along with a handful of other leftovers from earlier starters. 

I’ve yet to service a starter that needed a new drive gear or helical shaft, but I’m sure others have. For me, a thorough cleaning and a small amount of graphite lubricant has worked. (NOTE: follow the lubricant specs for your starter--they vary!)

I, personally, don’t much care about age or originality. I’m focused on “does it do its job properly for me."

Post the starter and engine's specs and someone more familiar with that setup will likely come along and chip in their experience. 

Edited December 15, 2025 by Handy Don

[Stan50 54]

1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

Post the starter and engine's specs and someone more familiar with that setup will likely come along and chip in their experience. 

pics of starter - earlier post, yes, maybe someone know that particular one. Too many parts # for me , especially for drive kit

 

[Stan50 54]

Hi guys, this fuel pump will fit my Kohler K301S, 47812? Part# 47 559 04 according to Engine Manual.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZTB7R4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

 

It is very frustrating to find correct part, so many part numbers  I'm using correct K301 engine manual with variation numbers etc, but pictures are confusing sometimes...

 

 

[Handy Don 15,641]

What I’m seeing is a molded plastic fuel pump with inlet and output adaptors that snap into the pump body to accommodate fuel lines with different IDs and angles. (Almost certainly, once the adaptor is in, it should never be removed.) I recall some members have reported disappointment with plastic pumps--I’m not sure why. Durability? Leaks?

I’ve not yet touched one.  

The washers would be very important to spread the force of the mounting screws on the plastic flanges.

Have you tried calling AtoZ to see about getting a good used pump that could be refurbished with a quality kit from ThenAndNow auto?

[Stan50 54]

I ordered just the one above, I'm not sure if that fuel pump would fit 

Right now I have plastic one, made in Taiwan I suppose. I think that one is leaking little bit (I noticed some fuel below pump). I'm going to check gasket on old one, maybe there is problem?

I'm just gathering some parts in advance (belts, carburator fix kit etc). I ordered parts online,my friend in US will send me these in one big parcel to Poland.

I read some posts about conversion to electric fuel pump, that direction would be straightforward (but I will do it if absolutely necessary). 

 

Edited 5 hours ago by Stan50

[Handy Don 15,641]

2 hours ago, Stan50 said:

my friend in US will send me these in one big parcel to Poland

My apologies, I didn’t realize you are in Poland! Yes, getting parts across the ocean is pretty difficult.

A map of all the members is at the top of this page (Member Map). From it, you may find other members who might be able to help you with your parts search. 

 

As for leaks, the fuel pump has a lot going on. The very first thing to check is whether or not any fuel has leaked into the oil sump. Look for it (and smell it) on the dipstick. Other sources are around the diaphragm/gasket between the two pump halves, or from the inlet or outlet connection.