BradKahler 86 #26 Posted 19 hours ago 1 hour ago, Easton Rich said: That’s your mule drive. You only need it if you wanna run a deck. I’ve got some if you want a better one. This is what mine looks like. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,945 #27 Posted 12 hours ago 7 hours ago, BradKahler said: There is an issue with the brake pedal when pushing on it, it hits the lever for the blade. My best guess is the blade lever is bent to a position where it shouldn't be. It's possible that you have the wrong lever. Some have a forward bend or a sideways Z built in. Easy enough to swap out. On the pipe nipple into the engine, can you raise the hood and snap a couple pics of what's there now? As far as switching implements, Wheelhorse had a main selling point of how easy it was to change out certain things. You have two very easy-to-switch pieces with a Long frame plow vs a narrow deck. Personally - I firmly believe that every tractor should have its own job and every implement should have it own tractor. This makes it a necessity to aquire more tractors. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 12,292 #28 Posted 11 hours ago You need the lever with the sharp Z bend towards the bottom. Clears the footrest and angled back to clear the PTO. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 68,403 #29 Posted 10 hours ago Your stock plow angle arm can be bent in a vice as well, to clear the foot rest. Lots of variations there, and commonly modified. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 6,102 #30 Posted 10 hours ago 13 hours ago, Sparky said: Nice score.. and with a couple attachments I have a ‘77 B-80 and she’s a great machine! Mowed occasionally with the 36” RD and then get hosed off and dragged to the local tractor shows Still a looker Mike. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 6,102 #31 Posted 10 hours ago Brad that a nice 74 B80. This was my second wheel horse very stout little tractor for its size. Enjoy it take care of it and I’ll take care of you. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 30,032 #32 Posted 9 hours ago 10 hours ago, BradKahler said: I'll go ahead and replace the points It's your call, but I hardly ever change the points unless they are really bad. The material that they make the new points out of just does not seem to hold up as well. If you do decide to change them, I suggest Kohler brand. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,945 #33 Posted 9 hours ago 1 minute ago, Achto said: It's your call, but I hardly ever change the points unless they are really bad. Seconded. I was talking about this to somebody maybe a week ago. Trina and I have been through tune-ups or mechanical refreshments on at least 16 engines now. I have changed exactly one single set of points. And to be honest, I'm not sure I really needed to do that. The rest of them I filed and cleaned. 1 minute ago, Achto said: The material that they make the new points out of just does not seem to hold up as well. If you do decide to change them, I suggest Kohler brand. Also seconded. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 62,578 #34 Posted 7 hours ago 12 hours ago, BradKahler said: I cleaned up the points today and set the timing but I don't like the looks of the points themselves. I'll go ahead and replace the points and condenser and see what happens. The condenser suppresses the arc that occurs when the points open and if it is not doing its job the ignition system won't perform properly. A set of points with a good condenser should las at least 200 hours of operation. At 25 hours of operation per year that would be about eight years. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 86 #35 Posted 6 hours ago 5 hours ago, ebinmaine said: It's possible that you have the wrong lever. Some have a forward bend or a sideways Z built in. Easy enough to swap out. Thanks for the tip. I think I'll just fabricate a whole new lever arm. Shouldn't be to difficult to do. 5 hours ago, ebinmaine said: On the pipe nipple into the engine, can you raise the hood and snap a couple pics of what's there now? 5 hours ago, ebinmaine said: As far as switching implements, Wheelhorse had a main selling point of how easy it was to change out certain things. You have two very easy-to-switch pieces with a Long frame plow vs a narrow deck. Personally - I firmly believe that every tractor should have its own job and every implement should have it own tractor. This makes it a necessity to aquire more tractors. Well...I've got two now, the 656 will have a grader blade and this one will primarily be used to mow areas where my zero turn mower is to big to get into. We normally don't get much snow so the snow blade will likely not be used often. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 86 #36 Posted 6 hours ago 5 hours ago, Racinbob said: You need the lever with the sharp Z bend towards the bottom. Clears the footrest and angled back to clear the PTO. Thanks for the picture, that should be easy enough to reproduce. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 86 #37 Posted 6 hours ago 2 hours ago, Achto said: It's your call, but I hardly ever change the points unless they are really bad. The material that they make the new points out of just does not seem to hold up as well. If you do decide to change them, I suggest Kohler brand. That's a good point about the quality of the new replacement parts. The points I bought from my 51 Dodge truck were total crap. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,945 #38 Posted 6 hours ago 2 minutes ago, BradKahler said: Undo that exhaust clamp. That muffler should come off in your hands. What's left should be a stub of pipe. I would NOT remove that from the engine. I would use it to mount the Gravely style muffler right onto. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 86 #39 Posted 6 hours ago 31 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Undo that exhaust clamp. That muffler should come off in your hands. What's left should be a stub of pipe. I would NOT remove that from the engine. I would use it to mount the Gravely style muffler right onto. I don't believe there is room for a Gravely muffler with the current pipe nipple. It would likely require a 45 fitting to gain clearance. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,945 #40 Posted 6 hours ago 1 minute ago, BradKahler said: I don't believe there is room for a Gravely muffler with the current pipe nipple. It would likely require a 45 fitting to gain clearance. I can see your logic but I still wouldn't try to remove that. You might be better off to just keep that where it is and use it as your beginning point. If you want to put a Gravely Muffler under the hood, you're going to need to construct some piping of some sort. I've used them on several tractors and I always leave them out from underneath. I don't like having that amount of heat next to the fuel pump or carburetor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 86 #41 Posted 6 hours ago (edited) 18 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I can see your logic but I still wouldn't try to remove that. You might be better off to just keep that where it is and use it as your beginning point. If you want to put a Gravely Muffler under the hood, you're going to need to construct some piping of some sort. I've used them on several tractors and I always leave them out from underneath. I don't like having that amount of heat next to the fuel pump or carburetor. Yeah, I don't really care to get it under the hood either. I found a thread posted by Racinbob where he used a 45 out of the head of his B-80. I kinda like that approach. Here's a couple of pictures from his thread. I almost forgot to add the link to Racinbob post. Edited 5 hours ago by BradKahler 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 12,292 #42 Posted 5 hours ago (edited) 24 minutes ago, BradKahler said: I don't believe there is room for a Gravely muffler with the current pipe nipple. It would likely require a 45 fitting to gain clearance. Perzackly. I initially put the muffler on before the PTO stuff was installed. Then I found out the error of my ways. On goes the street 45°. I wanted the muffler horizontal but couldn't with the 45°. Adding another 45° would have worked but it set the muffler further out that I wanted. I was lucky and the old nipple came out pretty easy but I don't think you'll be as lucky. Using the locknuts lets me not tighten the nipple as much for future removal. It holds just fine. I've been thinking about switching to a stack just for fun. I've also thought about an original Nelson that I have on the shelf but I'd have to relocate the coil to do so. Edited 5 hours ago by Racinbob 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 86 #43 Posted 5 hours ago 2 minutes ago, Racinbob said: Perzackly. I initially put the muffler on before the PTO stuff was installed. Then I found out the error of my ways. On goes the street 45°. I wanted the muffler horizontal but couldn't with the 45°. Adding another 45° would have worked but it set the muffler further out that I wanted. Thanks for the top view. I'm going to soak the pipe nipple in Kroil for a few days and then I'll attempt the extraction. Heck, it's only been screwed into the block for 50 years, what could go wrong 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 7,418 #44 Posted 3 hours ago Close by and for sale is reason enough to buy it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorse#1 1,884 #45 Posted 2 hours ago B-80 are great machines.Love mine ,mows great . Good find ! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites