jsoluna 490 #51 Posted March 29 (edited) Adjusted the backlash as advised. Took a small amount of play, maybe 10% out of the steering. Looks like most of my gains will be by adjusting/removing shims from the fan gear shaft mount. There is significant backlash there with everything else snug. Will deal with that along with the missing grease fitting and the misaligned quadrant next season, most likely. Edited March 29 by jsoluna 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsoluna 490 #52 Posted April 4 Just couldn't help but take care of both areas of backlash adjustment, and repair the broken grease fitting. Made a significant difference, but still more gains to be had. 3 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 55,988 #53 Posted April 4 On 12/12/2025 at 9:12 PM, jsoluna said: inherited one of the units with the fan gear and steering quadrant improperly oriented to each other from the factory I had one come in like that. Never could figure out why this issue was never caught, and fixed, at the dealer. What I did was center the quadrant and readjusted the tie rods to the proper toe. It wasn't my preferred fix but at the time. Steering wheel ended up way out of alignment but just learned to live with it. Replacement steering shafts are sometimes hard to find. Guys want the entire 520 front end to have on other tractors. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsoluna 490 #54 Posted April 4 (edited) 3 hours ago, WHX?? said: I had one come in like that. Never could figure out why this issue was never caught, and fixed, at the dealer. What I did was center the quadrant and readjusted the tie rods to the proper toe. It wasn't my preferred fix but at the time. Steering wheel ended up way out of alignment but just learned to live with it. Replacement steering shafts are sometimes hard to find. Guys want the entire 520 front end to have on other tractors. Yeah it's a shame it got through production and the dealer pre-delivery inspection/setup with it like that. I think the simple fix is to just cut the fan gear shaft somewhere in the middle, reorient the two halves, and weld back together with a sleeve over the joint to reinforce that area. Edited April 4 by jsoluna 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 17,743 #55 Posted April 4 (edited) On 3/29/2026 at 10:07 AM, jsoluna said: misaligned quadrant The only reduction steering setup that I have is probably 20 degrees out of alignment. It's so far off I had actually thought it served some purpose. No way quality control let something like that slide! It's on the 523-H and so far as I can tell it doesn't affect the steering in any significant way. I guess I need to check the radius both ways to see. Probably turns one way a little sharper than the other at the stops. I set the center of the setup on the middle tooth in the fan and aligned the wheels off of that at the links so that's probably why it doesn't show up. All of my other swept axles are 1990 models without the reduction setup. Edited April 4 by kpinnc 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 55,988 #56 Posted April 5 8 hours ago, jsoluna said: the fan gear shaft somewhere in the middle, reorient the two halves, and weld back together with a sleeve Yep agreed. I don’t remember what kind of job it is to pull it all to do that. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 17,743 #57 Posted April 5 (edited) 52 minutes ago, WHX?? said: Yep agreed. I don’t remember what kind of job it is to pull it all to do that. Done it recently. It's alot. Engine removal at a minimum. Just to align the fan gear? I don't think it's worth it. Just my opinion of course. Mine is crooked and other than knowing it, I can't tell it's there. There is plenty of adjustment in the tie rods to null it out. Edited April 5 by kpinnc 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 55,988 #58 Posted April 5 15 hours ago, kpinnc said: Done it recently. It's alot. Engine removal at a minimum Thanks KP I didn't remember if you had to pull the motor or not but prolly the reason I didn't fix it right. If I had to pull the motor for other work different story. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 17,743 #59 Posted April 5 36 minutes ago, WHX?? said: Thanks KP I didn't remember if you had to pull the motor or not but prolly the reason I didn't fix it right. The cross bar that the footrests sits on is the issue. Otherwise the lower steering shaft could come out easily. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 78,171 #60 Posted April 5 3 minutes ago, kpinnc said: The cross bar that the footrests sits on is the issue. Otherwise the lower steering shaft could come out easily. Sawzall 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 17,743 #61 Posted April 5 13 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Sawzall 1 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsoluna 490 #62 Posted April 11 On to the transmission controls. It feels much better now with all new wear components. Full forward and reverse control, and it holds position properly. Also replaced the drive belt, pulley, and spring. Modified the belt guard for better Onan cooling. 1 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsoluna 490 #63 Posted Friday at 11:18 PM (edited) Deck work. It was in severe need of some work on the tensioner assembly, it had been let go for far too long. New blades, new height/gauge wheels, new belts. I think this is a replacement deck shell for sure. I can't imagine at 2000 hours it's an original shell. It's way too nice. Edited Friday at 11:22 PM by jsoluna 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsoluna 490 #64 Posted 9 hours ago (edited) Well, it's confession time. After taking the unit for an extended run time and using it to take care of my parent's property, I realized that it's just not the right machine for me. The ergonomics are just off, I feel like the hydro control placement and steering wheel placement are just not "right". I could never settle into the operation. A foot control hydro control swap would certainly help, but with so many irons in the fire already, I have decided it's best to move on. Kind of hard to explain - but when you know, you know. And I know that I won't really enjoy spending time in the seat. I do appreciate the robustness of the design, all the cool 520-H features and upgrades, and I respect the machine for what it is. But it is time for it to go to a new home. Video update coming this week as we say goodbye on this project and let it go to someone who truly enjoys it. It was a fun dive into a machine I always wanted. Edited 9 hours ago by jsoluna 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 45,654 #65 Posted 6 hours ago 2 hours ago, jsoluna said: , I feel like the hydro control placement and steering wheel placement are just not "right". I had several with the control on the steering column and could never get used to it. I added foot control to all my Eaton 1100s. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 17,743 #66 Posted 6 hours ago 2 hours ago, jsoluna said: Kind of hard to explain - but when you know, you know. I never liked the hydro on the steering column. May have liked it more if it wasn't so sloppy and that "push down" to reverse. I made quite a few changes to my 523H ergonomics- made my own foot control and raised the steering wheel a couple inches. It fits me much better. But it was alot of fabrication for what it was. Sometimes, you gotta let a machine go that isn't working out. Better for someone else to enjoy it that for it to not get used. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 2,521 #67 Posted 2 hours ago I guess I'm the oddball I'll take the steering column control over the foot control any day of the week and I'm actually converting a 520H from foot control back to steering column. I have tried to like the foot control but seems like I can never just "relax" while operating tractor. I also like the idea of being able to step on brake and automatically returning to neutral and you can forget about trying to control mochine going down a steep grade with foot control (I'm either flying or almost stopped). I can see how maybe the foot controls where your heel is in constant contact with peddle might work some better but IDK. Can also see the advantages of foot over column using front blade or FEL but..... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 17,743 #68 Posted 1 hour ago 47 minutes ago, sqrlgtr said: also like the idea of being able to step on brake and automatically returning to neutral My foot control retains this feature. I do not have "return to center" on the pedal itself because it never came on any other hydro. While I can understand the safety aspect of it, my pedal setup is rather loose at the friction cam so it pulls back somewhat anyway. In a panic, my left pedal centers the cam and applies the brake. Since I have several hydros, I prefer to keep that positive habit transfer. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 45,654 #69 Posted 1 hour ago 3 minutes ago, kpinnc said: my left pedal centers the cam and applies the brake My left pedal still has this function. The right pedal is pulled back with a spring for backward motion and pushed forward with the ball of the foot for forward motion. The ball of the foot controls the pedal and motion range from full forward to full reverse. No changing pedals or using the heel. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 2,521 #70 Posted 42 minutes ago (edited) 55 minutes ago, kpinnc said: My foot control retains this feature. I do not have "return to center" on the pedal itself because it never came on any other hydro. While I can understand the safety aspect of it, my pedal setup is rather loose at the friction cam so it pulls back somewhat anyway. In a panic, my left pedal centers the cam and applies the brake. Since I have several hydros, I prefer to keep that positive habit transfer. This one will return on its own somewhat on level ground be will not return going down a steepish grade. I should have mentioned PO must have removed the can return stud/brg from cam control why I have no idea so have no real control over returning hydro to center accept by the heel of your foot. I assume we all know what happens when you abruptly go from a faster forward motion to reverse suddenly, you will eat steering wheel . This "feature " may have swayed my opinion some . 32 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said: My left pedal still has this function. The right pedal is pulled back with a spring for backward motion and pushed forward with the ball of the foot for forward motion. The ball of the foot controls the pedal and motion range from full forward to full reverse. No changing pedals or using the heel. This does seem like it would be more user friendly. I just rounded up a new cam control "with stud/brg intact" so looking forward to swapping it out and gaining the use of the return to neutral feature again. Big shout out to K&B wheel Horse for the parts needed to do this. Edited 42 minutes ago by sqrlgtr Share this post Link to post Share on other sites