520H tie rod removal tools??

[ebinmaine 74,895]

Is there a home shop made or alternative tool to a small pickle fork?

 

[wallfish 18,667]

Yeah, here's what they look like

 

Those tie rods don't go in on a locking tapered fit like automotive ball joints do. Loosen the nut to the end of the threads (to protect them) and hit it with a hammer to knock it through the hole if it's rusted together.

If the nut is locked on the threads and it's just spinning, try twisting the rod by the locking nut with a wrench which will add friction to the joint. 

Edited yesterday at 03:44 PM by wallfish

[peter lena 9,491]

@ebinmaine  https://www.google.com/search?q=types+of+tapered+suspension+tie+rod+removal+tools+&sca_esv=326a9b3488e82af6&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&sxsrf=AE its a tie rod  removal tool , also  set  things up , so the initial 3 lb impact is solid dead hit ,  if it does not  bounce , usually  breaks the rusty  hold . of course , some penetrant , pete  

[ineedanother 1,757]

50 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Is there a home shop made or alternative tool to a small pickle fork?

I subscribe to @wallfish 's solution as well but try this first. This was inexpensive at HF and I use it for more than ball joints.

[ebinmaine 74,895]

23 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Yeah, here's what they look like

 

Those tie rods don't go in on a locking tapered fit like automotive ball joints do. Loosen the nut to the end of the threads (to protect them) and hit it with a hammer to knock it through the hole if it's rusted together.

If the nut is locked on the threads and it's just spinning, try twisting the rod by the locking nut with a wrench which will add friction to the joint. 

 

 

Turns out in my case the rod itself is freed up but the castle nut is frozen onto the threads...

[ebinmaine 74,895]

GOT EM!!

 

 

I used my induction heater I picked up a few months ago. 

 

 

 

[ri702bill 10,222]

I concur emphatically with this choice. In the right hands, this ball joint wedge fork is a true timesaver. It has a smaller cousin for tie rods.

In the wrong hands, the fork can fly out, go across the room and get imbedded in the water heater...

 

A lot to do with the choice of extractor tool is whether or not the joint is being reused. The fork usually tears up the boot...

Sometimes... just wedging it in and pushing down on the opposite end is enough to pop it loose.

Edited 23 hours ago by ri702bill

[wallfish 18,667]

3 hours ago, ineedanother said:

and I use it for more than ball joints

Yup. I just have a hand and hammer fork but it's great for wedging stuff off like pulleys. It would be nice to have the different sizes too.

[ri702bill 10,222]

55 minutes ago, wallfish said:

It would be nice to have the different sizes too.

There is! You can buy either Ball Joint "Pickle Forks" or the smaller Tie Rod version. HFT sells this "Party Pack" Fun for all sizes!!

 

I have actually used two at a time from opposite sides on really stubborn stuff - like using two Wonderbars to remove deck spindle pulleys...

 

Edited 21 hours ago by ri702bill

[peter lena 9,491]

@ebinmaine  another thing  I regularly do  weeks out  is to get the penetrant going  , break the nut  loose , get the creping  / soaking going, don't retighten as much , often get a  liquid  rust track started  , with normal stress , movement . that really  helps out on wheel / axel hubs . dissimilar  metals , seam to  react  easier , the sooner  the lubrication stain  turns  rusty , you are on the way . pete 

[8ntruck 8,238]

5 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

GOT EM!!

 

 

I used my induction heater I picked up a few months ago. 

 

 

 

 

Cool!  Details, please?

 

That looks like it could be a real help with rust welded pieces parts.  Maybe help with assembly and disassembly of press fit parts, too.

[stevasaurus 23,490]

These are very helpful also.  Sold at Harbor Freight for a few bucks.

 

 

[ri702bill 10,222]

Yup - I've had my Snap-on set since 1973..

The tool in your hand and the one at the other end are affectionately known as the "Gazinta and the Gazover" exhaust pipe cutters. Great for cutting a muffler off the pipe you want to save or cutting out the pipe inside the muffler you want to save. One goes into, the other goes over... as in "Hang on, I need to grab the Gazinta to cut that pipe..."

[ebinmaine 74,895]

1 hour ago, 8ntruck said:

Cool!  Details, please?

 

That looks like it could be a real help with rust welded pieces parts.  Maybe help with assembly and disassembly of press fit parts, too.

 

See the loops?

That's a copper (?) coil wrapped in heat resistant cloth. 

 

I have only 3 coils. There are many versions. 

 

You find the coil of rhe smallest diameter that doesn't make contact with the heated item. Press the button on the tool. 

 

Wait 60 to 80 seconds and the heated item is a nice cherry red.  

Attempt removal. 

 

Lather. Rinse. Repeat.  

 

I had to heat each side twice. 

[adsm08 3,704]

9 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

GOT EM!!

 

 

I used my induction heater I picked up a few months ago. 

 

 

 

 

 

I bought one of those a few years ago specifically for working around fuel tanks, where a torch might be too dangerous. One of the best tools I ever bought.

[adsm08 3,704]

8 hours ago, ri702bill said:

the fork can fly out

 

Look into getting a quick-release chuck instead of that spring retainer chuck. Makes them a lot less dangerous.

[JoeM 9,029]

Here you go EB

 

[Retired Wrencher 6,098]

Looks like you have a lot of choices here, Eric to use. A hammer at wallfish  said would be the cheapest way to go. Did you ever get them out?

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 74,895]

2 hours ago, Retired Wrencher said:

Looks like you have a lot of choices here, Eric to use. A hammer at wallfish  said would be the cheapest way to go. Did you ever get them out?

 

 

 

 

 

21 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

GOT EM!!

 

 

I used my induction heater I picked up a few months ago. 

 

 

 

 

Yep. 

[ebinmaine 74,895]

11 hours ago, adsm08 said:

One of the best tools I ever bought.

 

I can see that.  I'm my case there's no availability of a decent torch set and using the small bottles is VERY expensive. 

This heater has been extremely handy for the couple occasions I've remembered to use it.  

 

 

@Joe M niiiiice.  

 

 

[cleat 7,747]

I have never had one put up too big a fight (yet).

A lot of time the cotter key is the hardest to get out.

 

I just use an impact to remove the nut then flip it over and screw it back on most of the way until the tie rod stud is flush to the end of the nut.

 

Then one or two good nice even (so as not to bend anything) whacks with a hammer (I use a brass hammer for this) and the tie rod should pop free.

 

Hopefully at this time you can just unscrew the nut. Holding the tie rod in as tight as possible while spinning the nut off with an impact should do it.

 

 

[ebinmaine 74,895]

1 minute ago, cleat said:

Holding the tie rod in as tight as possible while spinning the nut off with an impact should do it.

 

 

This is where our issue was. This particular tractor was living outside. Some areas were rusted. Others spotless. 

On this task the rusted part was the nut & thread. The spotless part was the plain stud. 

The stud popped right out leaving us with no way to hold the rest from spinning. 

After a soak with penetrant and a super heating it decided to free up.  

 

 

[wallfish 18,667]

23 hours ago, wallfish said:

If the nut is locked on the threads and it's just spinning, try twisting the rod by the locking nut with a wrench which will add friction to the joint. 

 

[ebinmaine 74,895]

4 minutes ago, wallfish said:

try twisting the rod by the locking nut with a wrench which will add friction to the joint. 

 

I saw that post earlier but I don't see any way to grab anything on these other than the nut that is already frozen on the threads. The thread shaft is round from top to bottom.

 

 

[wallfish 18,667]

Twist this nut with a wrench to crate friction in the joint so the stud has resistance and the nut will come off

 

Edited 1 hour ago by wallfish