ebinmaine 74,865 #1 Posted 8 hours ago Is there a home shop made or alternative tool to a small pickle fork? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 18,660 #2 Posted 7 hours ago (edited) Yeah, here's what they look like Those tie rods don't go in on a locking tapered fit like automotive ball joints do. Loosen the nut to the end of the threads (to protect them) and hit it with a hammer to knock it through the hole if it's rusted together. If the nut is locked on the threads and it's just spinning, try twisting the rod by the locking nut with a wrench which will add friction to the joint. Edited 7 hours ago by wallfish 4 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,491 #3 Posted 7 hours ago @ebinmaine https://www.google.com/search?q=types+of+tapered+suspension+tie+rod+removal+tools+&sca_esv=326a9b3488e82af6&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&sxsrf=AE its a tie rod removal tool , also set things up , so the initial 3 lb impact is solid dead hit , if it does not bounce , usually breaks the rusty hold . of course , some penetrant , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ineedanother 1,752 #4 Posted 7 hours ago 50 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Is there a home shop made or alternative tool to a small pickle fork? I subscribe to @wallfish 's solution as well but try this first. This was inexpensive at HF and I use it for more than ball joints. 2 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,865 #5 Posted 7 hours ago 23 minutes ago, wallfish said: Yeah, here's what they look like Those tie rods don't go in on a locking tapered fit like automotive ball joints do. Loosen the nut to the end of the threads (to protect them) and hit it with a hammer to knock it through the hole if it's rusted together. If the nut is locked on the threads and it's just spinning, try twisting the rod by the locking nut with a wrench which will add friction to the joint. Turns out in my case the rod itself is freed up but the castle nut is frozen onto the threads... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,865 #6 Posted 6 hours ago GOT EM!! I used my induction heater I picked up a few months ago. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,211 #7 Posted 5 hours ago (edited) I concur emphatically with this choice. In the right hands, this ball joint wedge fork is a true timesaver. It has a smaller cousin for tie rods. In the wrong hands, the fork can fly out, go across the room and get imbedded in the water heater... A lot to do with the choice of extractor tool is whether or not the joint is being reused. The fork usually tears up the boot... Sometimes... just wedging it in and pushing down on the opposite end is enough to pop it loose. Edited 5 hours ago by ri702bill 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 18,660 #8 Posted 4 hours ago 3 hours ago, ineedanother said: and I use it for more than ball joints Yup. I just have a hand and hammer fork but it's great for wedging stuff off like pulleys. It would be nice to have the different sizes too. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,211 #9 Posted 3 hours ago (edited) 55 minutes ago, wallfish said: It would be nice to have the different sizes too. There is! You can buy either Ball Joint "Pickle Forks" or the smaller Tie Rod version. HFT sells this "Party Pack" Fun for all sizes!! I have actually used two at a time from opposite sides on really stubborn stuff - like using two Wonderbars to remove deck spindle pulleys... Edited 3 hours ago by ri702bill 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,491 #10 Posted 2 hours ago @ebinmaine another thing I regularly do weeks out is to get the penetrant going , break the nut loose , get the creping / soaking going, don't retighten as much , often get a liquid rust track started , with normal stress , movement . that really helps out on wheel / axel hubs . dissimilar metals , seam to react easier , the sooner the lubrication stain turns rusty , you are on the way . pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 8,230 #11 Posted 1 hour ago 5 hours ago, ebinmaine said: GOT EM!! I used my induction heater I picked up a few months ago. Cool! Details, please? That looks like it could be a real help with rust welded pieces parts. Maybe help with assembly and disassembly of press fit parts, too. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 23,488 #12 Posted 45 minutes ago These are very helpful also. Sold at Harbor Freight for a few bucks. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,211 #13 Posted 1 minute ago Yup - I've had my Snap-on set since 1973.. The tool in your hand and the one at the other end are affectionately known as the "Gazinta and the Gazover" exhaust pipe cutters. Great for cutting a muffler off the pipe you want to save or cutting out the pipe inside the muffler you want to save. One goes into, the other goes over... as in "Hang on, I need to grab the Gazinta to cut that pipe..." Share this post Link to post Share on other sites