Krice58 110 #1 Posted Friday at 01:58 PM Got a leaky lift valve on the C160 and so I ordered the o-ring kit to seal it up. Anything to know about this job? Or is it pretty straightforward? I hate messing with the hydro system. From what I’ve gathered I read about keeping track of Mylar shims. I’d be curious to see what the inside of the valve looks like before I tear into it but I can’t find any pictures or diagrams of it disassembled, just the parts list which shows the whole valve. Also have an extra valve off of ‘77 C160 that looks the same, I would assume it would be interchangeable as a spare. Also have the lift cylinder on the ‘77 that has the snap ring instead of being welded shut. Does that replace the welded one if I need to swap it out at some point? Any input would be appreciated. IMG_8922.webp Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,775 #2 Posted Friday at 03:23 PM An older manual 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Krice58 110 #3 Posted Friday at 05:44 PM 2 hours ago, gwest_ca said: An older manual Doesn’t look too bad. That’ll be this weekends job 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,896 #4 Posted Friday at 10:38 PM 4 hours ago, Krice58 said: Doesn’t look too bad. That’ll be this weekends job Pics would be neat! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Krice58 110 #5 Posted Friday at 10:53 PM 14 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Pics would be neat! Will do! Probably tear into it tomorrow 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Krice58 110 #6 Posted yesterday at 04:39 PM (edited) Came apart easy enough. Just gonna clean it up, replace the o rings and put it back together. Did not see any Mylar shims. The document does say “if used” so maybe some don’t have them? Edited yesterday at 04:47 PM by Krice58 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 15,916 #7 Posted 19 hours ago Those old style valves work so much better than the newer squealers. Smoother, slower, and quiet. If I ever have an excuse to go back into my center console on either of my 520s, I'm gonna swap those new ones out. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 11,014 #8 Posted 16 hours ago (edited) Put a little wheel bearing or heavy grease in the groove to help hold the O-rings as you assemble it. Edited 16 hours ago by oliver2-44 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,842 #9 Posted 4 hours ago 13 hours ago, kpinnc said: Those old style valves work so much better than the newer squealers. Smoother, slower, and quiet. If I ever have an excuse to go back into my center console on either of my 520s, I'm gonna swap those new ones out. Maybe not a good idea. The old valves were only on the Sunstrand hydros which had pressure relief valves built into the charge pump. The Eatons required external pressure relief so the relief valves are built into the control valve. To use the old valve on an Eaton, you’d need to plumb in a separate pressure relief valve and, coincidentally, these are the usual source of the squeal! (I suspect the Sunstrand's design of its pressure relief valve inhibits squeal.) As a side note, the correct terminology for all the stock WH valves is “Tandem Center”, not “Open Center.” Tandem Center valves block flows to/from the cylinder when the control is centered, which locks the implement in position. Open Center valves permit flows to/from the cylinder when centered. This lets a raised implement fall (or a lowered one be pushed up) by external forces (gravity, uneven ground, etc.) . On a couple of WH models, GT-14 and C-195 that I know of, the valve's “float” position is the equivalent of “Open Center” Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
