stevasaurus 23,490 #76 Posted Thursday at 09:18 PM No sealent. I would not use that petcock !! That petcock will hang down below the transmission and just be waiting for you to run over something that will break it off. All you need in there is a brass plug with pipe thread...available at any hardware store. Your gears look fine, they cleaned up vvery nice !! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 55 #77 Posted Thursday at 09:26 PM 3 minutes ago, stevasaurus said: No sealent. I would not use that petcock !! That petcock will hang down below the transmission and just be waiting for you to run over something that will break it off. All you need in there is a brass plug with pipe thread...available at any hardware store. Your gears look fine, they cleaned up vvery nice !! Sorry about bouncing around on topics. Actually the petcock is for the gas tank. The transmission drain plug is a plug that requires a hex socket. Thanks for the confirmation on the gears, that saves a chunk of money 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 55 #78 Posted Friday at 04:25 PM Ok, time for the $64,000 question, or in this case $171.83 question. What criteria should I use for replacing the needle bearings? I'm not done cleaning the cases and bearings completely, I want to wash and clean them a couple more times. As far as the needle bearings go so far I haven't found any issues with them. There was no really fine grit that I could find in the cases, obviously that doesn't mean a whole lot but it's a starting point. I'm obviously a little biased since I could save some money by using the existing bearings, so I would like feedback/push back on what I should do. The 1533 bearings seem to be fine so I'm not worried about them, just the needle bearings. Ok, let me have your thoughts.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
702854boy 323 #79 Posted Friday at 05:12 PM I forget the numbers but we were able to order the needle bearing from rock auto. I think dad said something about the being like IH scout steering bearing or something 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 55 #80 Posted Friday at 05:31 PM 14 minutes ago, 702854boy said: I forget the numbers but we were able to order the needle bearing from rock auto. I think dad said something about the being like IH scout steering bearing or something I have thought about buying the needle bearings from a different source, stevasaurus has posted all of the part numbers from Torrington and I added up their prices and there wasn't a large difference in price. Due to such high shipping prices anymore, it almost pays to buy from one source when possible and I still need seals and the gasket. It's not so much the money being spent, as is it really necessary to replace the bearings? I'm looking to see what others have done in this situation and if they had any regrets. Thanks! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,071 #81 Posted Friday at 06:07 PM If they are full complement bearing (most are but I see one that may not be) The needles should fit snugly together and be perfectly straight and parallel to each other. Try to force your finger nail between the needles if they separate much you need to replace other wise I usually reuse them 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,843 #82 Posted Friday at 06:16 PM 31 minutes ago, BradKahler said: is it really necessary to replace the bearings I’ve not been inside one of these so my credentials are thin... First question: what is your intended use? A hard worker or lots of hours vs. light work or occasional. Second: if you partially assemble with dry bearings, is there any rattle or looseness? Third (and this has been hard-learned): are the extra cost and labor really material to me? Last: what is the future of this machine with me and any subsequent owners? I suspect that answers to these will guide your decision. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 55 #83 Posted Friday at 08:37 PM 2 hours ago, pfrederi said: If they are full complement bearing (most are but I see one that may not be) The needles should fit snugly together and be perfectly straight and parallel to each other. Try to force your finger nail between the needles if they separate much you need to replace other wise I usually reuse them I noticed a couple where they are not necessarily straight and they could be moved side to side (tilt?) a little. 2 hours ago, Handy Don said: I’ve not been inside one of these so my credentials are thin... First question: what is your intended use? A hard worker or lots of hours vs. light work or occasional. Second: if you partially assemble with dry bearings, is there any rattle or looseness? Third (and this has been hard-learned): are the extra cost and labor really material to me? Last: what is the future of this machine with me and any subsequent owners? I suspect that answers to these will guide your decision. Probably light duty around my 9 acres, mainly maintaining the gravel driveway. The gravel tends to mound in the center and edges. I'm hoping to build a mid mount grader similar to the original and use it that way. Other uses would likely be pulling downed trees (small ones!) and other odds and ends, like running up long driveway to the mail box I just finished cleaning it out again with just the garden hose to eliminate left over fluids. What I've noticed with the needle bearing is the brown sludge is definitely embedded within the bearings and even after I hosed them down with PB and then flushing with water the sludge remains. It's seems to be a nice sticky goo. I don't have a chemical parts washer anymore and don't really care to set up a temporary one due to the mess involved. I think in order to do this job right and not have to revisit it in the future I'm going to bite the bullet and buy the bearing kit. I was trying to be an optimist and hope someone would talk me out of replacing them, unfortunately common sense has gotten in the way... Thanks! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,071 #84 Posted Friday at 08:59 PM 20 minutes ago, BradKahler said: I noticed a couple where they are not necessarily straight and they could be moved side to side (tilt?) a little. Probably light duty around my 9 acres, mainly maintaining the gravel driveway. The gravel tends to mound in the center and edges. I'm hoping to build a mid mount grader similar to the original and use it that way. Other uses would likely be pulling downed trees (small ones!) and other odds and ends, like running up long driveway to the mail box I just finished cleaning it out again with just the garden hose to eliminate left over fluids. What I've noticed with the needle bearing is the brown sludge is definitely embedded within the bearings and even after I hosed them down with PB and then flushing with water the sludge remains. It's seems to be a nice sticky goo. I don't have a chemical parts washer anymore and don't really care to set up a temporary one due to the mess involved. I think in order to do this job right and not have to revisit it in the future I'm going to bite the bullet and buy the bearing kit. I was trying to be an optimist and hope someone would talk me out of replacing them, unfortunately common sense has gotten in the way... Thanks! Needles not straight and move enough to tilt...replace them 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 12,588 #85 Posted Friday at 11:01 PM My thoughts.... You're in there right now so better to replace them now instead of having to do this again. Then you'll be certain it will most likely outlast you. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 55 #86 Posted yesterday at 09:03 PM Last night I ordered Base Kit-1 as recommended by Lowell along with a bunch of other odds and ends, including a replacement hitch pin to replace the one I cut into three pieces. Hopefully by the time the parts arrive I'll have the two cases prepped and ready for bearing installation. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 15,916 #87 Posted 23 hours ago 1 hour ago, BradKahler said: Last night I ordered Base Kit-1 as recommended by Lowell along with a bunch of other odds and ends, including a replacement hitch pin to replace the one I cut into three pieces. Hopefully by the time the parts arrive I'll have the two cases prepped and ready for bearing installation. Best way to get another 50 years out of that transmission! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 55 #88 Posted 22 hours ago 48 minutes ago, kpinnc said: Best way to get another 50 years out of that transmission! Unfortunately my body is going to give up LONG before that 50 years goes by 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ineedanother 1,757 #89 Posted 20 hours ago 2 hours ago, BradKahler said: Unfortunately my body is going to give up LONG before that 50 years goes by We've had many discussion here about "lawn tractors" going to the landfill and going into our last will and testaments. Family heirlooms of a different sort worth maintaining for another generation... 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 55 #90 Posted 5 hours ago Now that the bearings are on order, it's time to start pressing out the existing needle bearings. Would I be correct in assuming that all the needle bearings are pressed out from inside the cases, or am I missing something obvious? The input shaft has two needle bearings but it looks like they could both be pressed out at the same time. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 11,014 #91 Posted 2 hours ago I f DC ont think it matters which way you press them out. I’ve usually set the case half open side down and drove them towards the inside using a socket as a mandrel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
