New Member, New to Wheel Horse & Now I Own a 656

[BradKahler 42]

50 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Yup, sorry to say, but the special full dog point 1/4-20 shifter retainer screw IS broken off and must be dealt with...

The unbroken one would protrude out of the boss by about 3/8" to accept a hex nut to set the adjustment.

SOMRTIMES, you can get lucky drilling it with a left-handed bit, the size for a screw extractor, aka Easy-Out.

Your next task!!!

 

I was afraid it was broken 

 

It looks like a good candidate to weld a nut on the end.  Any idea if that has been tried before on this bolt?  I've used the weld a nut process multiple times in the past with pretty good success.

 

[BradKahler 42]

17 hours ago, WHX?? said:

Ideally a bearing collar behind the very inboard side of the hub. Pic below is another method but yes as mentioned be carful since you will have the more fragile "star" hubs. Being a neub you probably don't have a spare junk hub tho. You can try the puller you pictured but with extreme caution. If it don't feel like its gonna go lightly don't push it. 2nd pic ask me how I know. 

My way now is to try and get what appears to be the easiest one to get off. Then split the cases which allows one to disassemble the differential and get the other axle out and to a press. 

getting hitch pins out and hubs off are a rite of passage here. 

 

Any issues STOP ...set the wrench down and slowly step away ...  and use a shout out. 

 

That is great advice...I just wish I was better at following it 

[BradKahler 42]

12 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

That manual has excellent step by step instructions on how to open up that trasmission.  You do need to get the shifter out first.  Here is another thread that has videos of the process.  This video is for a 4 speed which means the brake drum is on the cluster gear shaft instead of the mushroom gear.  The only difference between your trans and the video thread.  Check this out.

 

 

I was wondering if the shifter had to come out before splitting the case.  Thanks for confirming.  I'll watch the videos this evening to give me a feel for what I'm getting into.

 

Thanks!

[702854boy 309]

1 hour ago, BradKahler said:

 

That is great advice...I just wish I was better at following it 

Did you break something?

[BradKahler 42]

1 hour ago, 702854boy said:

Did you break something?

 

Not this time, but I can guarantee that I've broken things in the past.

[BradKahler 42]

Today turned out to be a productive one.  I had no problems getting the case split and you can see from the pictures the transmission is really grungy inside.  There was no metal debris inside at all, other than the water and oil that created that grunge.  I've started cleaning the parts in my ultrasonic cleaner and so far I'm really happy with the results.  The first batch of parts spent about 58 minutes in the cleaner.  Tomorrow I'll need to clean out the ultrasonic cleaner and then I'll run all the parts through it again.  

 

I'm not sure yet how I'm going to clean the two cases.  I think they are to big to fit in the cleaner so I may end up using a pressure washer for the first pass and then figure out what to do after that.  

 

Making progress 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[702854boy 309]

Yikes, good thing you are going through all of that

[953 nut 62,476]

14 minutes ago, BradKahler said:

pressure washer for the first pass and then figure out what to do after that. 

Pressure washer and a small wire brush should do the trick.

If you haven't visited Lowell's site for the parts you'll need here is a link.  https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/base-kit-1-for-manual-transmission/

Your 1533 bearings ( the big ball bearings on the inner end of the axle) will probably clean up and be able to be reused, if not he sells them too.

[ri702bill 10,179]

So far, so good!

Do check the condition of the 2nd / 3rd gear. The third gear side has the row of drilled holes that should not show excessive wear... That is waht causes the Unidrive to jump out of high gear.

New reproduction gears are available thru Lowell too.

Edited 21 hours ago by ri702bill

[BradKahler 42]

12 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Pressure washer and a small wire brush should do the trick.

If you haven't visited Lowell's site for the parts you'll need here is a link.  https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/base-kit-1-for-manual-transmission/

Your 1533 bearings ( the big ball bearings on the inner end of the axle) will probably clean up and be able to be reused, if not he sells them too.

 

A couple of days ago I ordered the rubber boot from Lowell's, that was before I realized the transmission was frozen.  I should have waited.  I've been looking at their kits and trying to figure out which kit to order.  There is no real description of the differences between base-kit-1, base-kit-2, etc.  I assume based on your comment that base-kit-1 is for the 3-speed transmission.

 

Thanks!

[BradKahler 42]

12 hours ago, ri702bill said:

So far, so good!

Do check the condition of the 2nd / 3rd gear. The third gear side has the row of drilled holes that should not show excessive wear... That is waht causes the Unidrive to jump out of high gear.

New reproduction gears are available thru Lowell too.

 

I'll post some pictures of the gear later today once I'm done with all of the clean up.

 

[953 nut 62,476]

10 minutes ago, BradKahler said:

There is no real description of the differences between base-kit-1, base-kit-2, etc.  I assume based on your comment that base-kit-1 is for the 3-speed transmission.

Best bet is to call Lowell or text him the question. I am not sure which kit is needed for your 5053 transaxle.

Questions about your tractor and the parts needed please text (507) 213-3115 

Hours: M-F 8:00 am - 5:00 pm  Sat & Sun Closed

[WHX?? 53,073]

Yes call Lowell before you order. He'll be happy to answer any questions and make sure to get the right stuff. Tell him the boys from RS sent ya ... he knows most of us. 

I take it you got the dog point out? Welding a nut on is an excellent idea. They tend to snap right at the end of the hex but many times back right out. 1/4-20 is the thread size. I have replacements I can send you one if needed. @Racinbob and I buy them in bulk then take turns passing them out... 

Your tranny is in good shape as these go. I saved this one. Had rust boogers for a week but saved it. 

13 hours ago, ri702bill said:

Do check the condition of the 2nd / 3rd gear.

Yes put up a pic we can tell you if it's any good or not. 

Edited 7 hours ago by WHX??

[BradKahler 42]

34 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Best bet is to call Lowell or text him the question. I am not sure which kit is needed for your 5053 transaxle.

Questions about your tractor and the parts needed please text (507) 213-3115 

Hours: M-F 8:00 am - 5:00 pm  Sat & Sun Closed

 

Just sent a text.

[BradKahler 42]

10 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Yes call Lowell before you order. He'll be happy to answer any questions and make sure to get the right stuff. Tell him the boys from RS sent ya ... he knows most of us. 

I take it you got the dog point out? Welding a nut on is an excellent idea. They tend to snap right at the end of the hex but many times back right out. 1/4-20 is the thread size. I have replacements I can send you one if needed. @Racinbob and I buy them in bulk then take turns passing them out... 

Your tranny is in good shape as these go. I saved this one. Had rust boogers for a week but saved it. 

Yes put up a pic we can tell you if it's any good or not. 

 

THAT is an impressively dirty transmission 

 

I forgot to mention the dog bolt.  Yes, I welded a nut on it and it the bolt spun right out.  In hindsight I probably could have just used a pointed punch and spun it out.  I'm not sure why it was broken when it was obviously not rusted in place.  I would definitely be interested in one of  your replacements

 

I'm in the process of cleaning the ultrasonic cleaner so I can run everything through it one more time.  Later today I'll tackle the cases, I may just go to the local car wash and deal with them there.  

 

Thanks!

 

 

[WHX?? 53,073]

3 minutes ago, BradKahler said:

be interested in one of  your replacements

PM me your address I'll drop one in a envelope. Maybe short on the jam nuts tho. 

 

4 minutes ago, BradKahler said:

local car wash and deal with them there.

Yep  I have yet to do it but the boys report a e-tank works well. 

[BradKahler 42]

22 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

PM me your address I'll drop one in a envelope. Maybe short on the jam nuts tho. 

 

Yep  I have yet to do it but the boys report a e-tank works well. 

 

PM sent, thank you.

 

e-tank?  Electrolysis or ultrasonic.

[BradKahler 42]

18 hours ago, ri702bill said:

So far, so good!

Do check the condition of the 2nd / 3rd gear. The third gear side has the row of drilled holes that should not show excessive wear... That is waht causes the Unidrive to jump out of high gear.

New reproduction gears are available thru Lowell too.

 

I've finished running all of the gearbox innards through the ultrasonic cleaner multiple times and they all look really good.  Here's a couple of shots of the requested gear.  Other than some possible slight burrs on each tooth edge I don't see anything wrong with it, but I'm not really sure what to look for on this gear.

 

 

[Handy Don 14,803]

About ⅓ of each tooth has been ground away at the arrow. 

Edited 3 hours ago by Handy Don

[BradKahler 42]

3 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

About ⅓ or each tooth has been ground away at the arrow. 

 

Ah, so  the tooth is supposed to be full length.  I thought maybe it was a feature similar to the input shaft gear.  I suppose it's far enough gone that it needs to be replaced?

 

[stevasaurus 23,470]

It's the 2nd picture of post #68 that you want to look at.  Those thin teeth on the inside of the gear ware out fast when shifting without comming to a complete stop.  When they are worn enough, that is when the trans will pop out of 3rd gear under a load.  Yours look to be in good shape.  I would not replace it.  Check the fit by putting the 2nd and 3rd fork gear on top of the input gear.