AnotherJohn 2 #1 Posted Sunday at 05:40 PM I recently purchased this tractor used from the original owner. He kept EVERY SINGLE RECEIPT. It was well maintained and the owner did not hesitate to spend money on it. He was tired of putting money into it... He was told it needed a governor rebuilt; $500+ and he then decided to sell it. The last big spend was igniton coils ~3 months ago. Initially I couldn't reproduce the bogging down problems until it ran for a good 10+ minutes. I found the voltage regulator held in by a single stripped screw which was also the grounding strap; I could see it arcing. I pulled the motor and repaired that. I did a full test of the charging system; passed with flying colors. Ground is good from the VR to battery, etc. During reassembly I noticed a lot of missing parts ; one bolt missing from the motor mount to the frame, only two stud nuts were holding on the muffler!, found no governor spring was installed (fixed), the carb plenum was backwards! I thought for sure I found all the issues. I also thought how it looked like someone hastily threw this thing back together... It runs MUCH better and idles up and stays reved up, BUT I'm still fouling the plug on the one cylinder. I definitely have spark on that cylinder ; did a visual while cranking the motor. I'm thinking that I have two possibilities. The voltage is weak and so the spark is just not enough or the intake valve is stuck open and after running for few minutes bogs the motor completely. Could a poorly installed ignition module (not gapped .10 to the stator) cause this? Would I have spark, but not enough when under load? I'm ready the pull the motor again , but want to be sure I consider / check everything. thanks for any input 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 29,903 #2 Posted yesterday at 12:34 AM (edited) 6 hours ago, AnotherJohn said: The voltage is weak and so the spark is just not enough or the intake valve is stuck open A compression test or even better a leak down test will let you know if you have a compression issue. I would make sure that you have good compression before pulling it apart. Edited yesterday at 12:34 AM by Achto 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,692 #3 Posted yesterday at 12:37 AM 2 minutes ago, Achto said: A compression test or even better a leak down test will let you know if you have a compression issue. I would make sure that you have good compression before pulling it apart. It could also be as simple as a bad plug. Cheap and easy to test--you could just swap them but I’d probably buy a new one. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 52,933 #4 Posted yesterday at 01:48 AM (edited) 20 hours ago, AnotherJohn said: noticed a lot of missing parts 20 hours ago, AnotherJohn said: He was tired of putting money into it. Wow go figure ... My offer would have been missing alot of digits.... 13 hours ago, Handy Don said: It could also be as simple as a bad plug. Had a customer bring in a Cub with a Kohler and it was just the plug but yes do a compression or leak down test. Edited 15 hours ago by WHX?? My Bad No Welcome 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blue Chips 240 #5 Posted yesterday at 02:04 AM (edited) 8 hours ago, AnotherJohn said: BUT I'm still fouling the plug on the one cylinder. A little more data would be helpful: Is the plug fouled with dry/soft black soot, with oil, or with fuel? If it looks wet, let it dry out for a while to see if it's fuel or oil. Any results from trying a new spark plug as @Handy Don suggested? If you tried a new plug, does the new plug become fouled after running for an hour or so? Does the other spark plug look perfectly normal? Compression or leak-down test results as @Achto suggested? Any visible smoke, either black (rich mixture) or bluish (oil) in the exhaust under various operating conditions? Any noticeable miss in the engine under different operating conditions? Any backfire under different operating conditions? Any knocking/clanking/clicking sounds? And if so, under what conditions? Does the CH22 in your 522xi have the Smart Spark system? If so, that could add another variable. Look for a rectangular box mounted on the blower housing next to the valve cover (mine is on the right side). ...and photos are always helpful. Edited yesterday at 02:19 AM by Blue Chips 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 8,924 #7 Posted 17 hours ago Before we throw the baby out with the bath water, the CH engines have had head gasket problems. A good place to start on this is a compression test. A good number for these engines is 150-200 PSI. I have had them run ok in the 130 range. but lacked some power. Question is the plug oil fouled or fuel fouled. Assuming it is fuel fouled is the better of the two. Since you are pulling the motor, check the intake manifold bolts. I have seen those loose. Also a good Idea would be to change the rear seal. Gap on the coils .011-.013 Part numbers If you find out the advance spark system is bad this is a fix. (I have eliminated the advance and just wired in standard coils with success) 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
