Where to find wiring harness

[Kid with a wheelhorse 2]

I have a wheel horse commando 809 that has the weirdest wiring that I have seen that is most likely modified (I got this tractor from a neighbor) and I need help finding a new one or figuring out how to re build it

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,736]

Welcome to Red Square.

The wiring is fairly simple and you should be able to determine the problems with a wiring diagram.

We are here to help so post your thoughts and questions.

 

[ri702bill 10,043]

Welcome!

 

8 hours ago, Kid with a wheelhorse said:

or figuring out how to re build it

So... how extensive do you need to go with this?? Engine smokes on startup or all the time? Axle seal weeping or the Unidrive not shifting properly?? The extent of the issues determines whether your tractor is either the parts donor or recipient of a rebuild.... All it takes is time and money.

 

Wiring - perhaps @ebinmaine can give some insight as to wire gauge sizes and quality connector terminals. He has done a few...

Watch the classifieds section here for possible additional tractors for sale in your area - Horses are herd beings, ya can't have one without a companion....

[ebinmaine 74,553]

1 minute ago, ri702bill said:

Wiring - perhaps @ebinmaine can give some insight as to wire gauge sizes and quality connector terminals. He has done a few...

 

Yessir.  

Years ago I got into the habit of using a seven wire trailer harness to build my own tractor harnesses.

Most of the wires are 14 gauge. I tend to use 12 gauge for the main power feed. I also make my own battery cables. Gauge varies a little on those.

[parsonsponyz 254]

[ri702bill 10,043]

Another suggestion on wiring - Your WH did not come with an inline fuse to protect the starting and charging systems. DO consider adding one - a blade style in a closed weatherproof holder- especially if you are going to keep the OE ammeter. When those fail, it can result in a direct short to ground, and then things "heat up".

[rmaynard 16,588]

The wiring on a Commando 800 should be pretty simple. (See the manuals that gwest_ca attached). Only the battery and starter require heavy wire. Everything else is 14 or 16 gauge. You must make sure that all ground connections are good. Make sure that you have the correct ignition switch, and the rest is pretty much 'connect the dots'. Five-pin ignition pigtails are available from Amazon. Good luck. Welcome to RedSquare, and remember that we are all here to help.

[953 nut 62,162]

Before making assumptions on the Commando's wiring needs there are a couple of things we need to know.

Is the engine the 8 HP Kohler the tractor left the factory with (or one like it)?

Is the engine ignition system a magneto or battery powered system?

Is there a number on the present ignition switch?

Is the clutch safety switch presently in place and being used?

We have some rather generic wiring on this site that could be customized to fit your needs once we know what we are working with.

Below is the factory wiring drawing.

[rmaynard 16,588]

A picture of the tractor and engine would be nice. Otherwise we are spitting into the wind.

 

The Commando 800 was produced in 1972 and 1973. Both years it had a K181S-30461D engine. That engine has a regular starter with a Bendix gear engaging the flywheel. It should have a separate solenoid. The tractor had a battery ignition meaning that there is stator under the flywheel with two usually white wires coming out that terminated at the rectifier/regulator.

 

At this point I will stop until we have some more data, PICTURES...please.

[8ntruck 8,152]

@ebinmaine  what kind of crimpers are you using to make battery cables?

[ebinmaine 74,553]

6 minutes ago, 8ntruck said:

@ebinmaine  what kind of crimpers are you using to make battery cables?

 

I have a bench top hammer strike model. It can be bolted down but I leave it loose.  

[953 nut 62,162]

36 minutes ago, 8ntruck said:

what kind of crimpers are you using to make battery cables?

I made my own, put two black walnut blocks side by side in the drill press vise, drilled a 3/8: hole all the way through where they came together then drilled a 13/64" hole in the side of one of them and tapped it 1/4-20. Ran a 1/4-20 into that hole so it protruded into the side of the 3/8" hole about a 1/4". Rubber band the two pieces, place the terminal in the end that has the 1/4-20, slip the wire in the other end, put it in the vice and tighten it up.

This reminds me, I loaned it out a couple years back and haven't seen it since,    time to call ol' Wayne and see if he remembers where it is.

[Handy Don 14,654]

 

21 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

I have a bench top hammer strike model. It can be bolted down but I leave it loose.  

Interesting, for the few I’ve done, I used solder lugs. Of course, this only works with copper cable, not aluminum. 

[ebinmaine 74,553]

24 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

 

Interesting, for the few I’ve done, I used solder lugs. Of course, this only works with copper cable, not aluminum. 

 

I use copper cable and lugs. 

Absolutely smashh all yer aggressions into the lug and it stays nicely. 

Side benefit is you feel better.  

[Kid with a wheelhorse 2]

1 it is the factory engine

2 it is battery ignition with a starter coil,motor and soinoid

3 it is not a lone horse I have a b-80 that I recently engine swapped so I have some parts for that engine so if they are the same can I use them

4 I have battery cables that I can use 

5 I am away and will not be able to get a photo until Monday but I will send some when I get home

6 there is a clutch safety switch but I don,t think it is connect but the tractors wiring is heavily modified as you will se in the photos

7 by re building it I meant redoing the wiring properly 

[953 nut 62,162]

2 hours ago, Kid with a wheelhorse said:

it is battery ignition with a starter coil,motor and soinoid

I think the clutch switch was the only safety switch on you Wheel Horse. If you wish to add it back in it would go in-between the ignition switch "S" terminal and the solenoid small terminal.

If you don't mind spending a few bucks for a 103990 ignition switch the drawing below will be all you need. 16 gauge wire will be fine for everything except the battery cables which you already have. If you want to use the factory 101917 ignition switch you would just have to rearrange the wires and your lights would go to the "L" rather than the "A" terminal.

[Kid with a wheelhorse 2]

I don’t even use the factory accessory for lights because I like to run them off of power tool batteries