56servi 36 #1 Posted November 4 Got this modification from ri702bill, on putting hemi joints on the ends of the angle rod on your snowplow/dirt plow. This makes for much smoother action between the handle and blade when angling the blade. It also makes removing the blade from the frame for storage. You cut the right angle from one end of the rod then thread it to screw into a hemi joint (1/2-20 thread on most hemi joints) I cut the length of the thread to be the same length as the depth of the thread in the joint plus enough thread to add a jam nut. Mine was about 2 inches. Mount the joint to the blade hole where the rod bend was before Add washers to bring the hemi down enough so the rod clears the bottom of the quadrant. I put a flat washer on both sides on the hemi and on the nut side of the bolt. Use a Nyloc nut to secure it. Screw a Nyloc nut on the rod with the Nyloc side going on 1st, then screw the rod into the hemi joint about 1/2 way. Tighten the nut against the hemi to keep the rod from turning. Mount the other Hemi on the handle the same way. With the handle in the straight up & down position mark the end of the rod to be about 1/2 way into the threads. Cut the rod at the mark & thread. Thread this end into the hemi and secure like the other end. 2 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,617 #2 Posted November 4 Very nice. I've done a couple here. It's a serious upgrade. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,086 #3 Posted November 4 Makes for a smooth positive movment action... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 1,087 #4 Posted November 4 Great looking upgrade. I just put a 5 angle 48" blade on the 1257 and it is hard to turn blade to the right even after greasing everything up. I think the push/pull rod has been kinked on the very end on mine and gets in a bind in certain positions. This would eliminate that. @56servi may I ask where you got your heim joints? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,471 #5 Posted November 4 @sqrlgtr that push pull lever , needs a SHOULDER BOLT , at lower squeeze lever area , the exact size to size , lets everything swing with ease , what I do is to flat washer up a perfect hold / movement spot , use a regular nut , to dial it in , then , swap nut for elastic lock nut , lubricate as you set up , another vital spot is the , slide pin in the swing quadrant , build mine up on milk crates , so you can roller stool around it , and dial in function . got my heims on line , also have one on my pto lever end . eliminate the sloppy trundle , pictures of other change outs , glad you are trying this , years in use , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,617 #6 Posted November 5 1 hour ago, sqrlgtr said: may I ask where you got your heim joints? I certainly don't speak for the PO but I get ours through McMaster Carr. Dozens of types and sizes. I use the 7/16" double male for tie rods. The plow rod I built was outta 1/2" or larger. Don't recall but I can check tomorrow. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 62,229 #7 Posted November 5 1 hour ago, sqrlgtr said: may I ask where you got your heim joints? Check out Zoro on that is where I got mine, less than $ 20.00 for a pair including shipping and sales tax. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 1,087 #8 Posted November 5 (edited) 3 minutes ago, 953 nut said: Check out Zoro on that is where I got mine, less than $ 20.00 for a pair including shipping and sales tax. funny you should mention that just ordered a pair off there (Zoro) a few minutes ago . Edited November 5 by sqrlgtr 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GeneB 4 #9 Posted November 5 I got mine on Amazon “PHSB8 Female Rod End Bearing 1/2 Inch Bore and 1/2-20 Right Hand Threaded Rod End Joint Bearing, Self-Lubricating Joint Rod Ends - 2pcs”. $8.99 pair 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Treepep 851 #10 Posted November 5 Hemi is Dodge Right? serious upgrade to steering as well! 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GeneB 4 #11 Posted November 5 I have no clue why I got on the Hemi spelling yesterday. I was on a roll trying to say how I did the conversion. Maybe Hemi is the plural of Heim. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 62,229 #12 Posted November 5 Could have been "spell correct" changed it for you. Couple of days ago someone was intending to say he used "Seafoam" in his gas and it was corrected to say he was adding seafood to his gas. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,617 #13 Posted November 5 3 minutes ago, 953 nut said: Could have been "spell correct" changed it for you. Couple of days ago someone was intending to say he used "Seafoam" in his gas and it was corrected to say he was adding seafood to his gas. Seafood?? Plus petroleum distillates. Maybe we're on to something here. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,471 #14 Posted November 5 @56servi been adding / using heim joints for years , any time you have a restrictive movement in your intended function , the heim swivel eliminates it , also like SUPER LUBE , hydraulic oil , on that swivel , check out related temp range . regularly look at INTENDED TROUBLE AREA , you are looking at what is not easily moving . regularly refer to a roller stool look over ? being able to comfortably sit and look at a problem , lets you plan / think ? of a fix. you can also easily paint anything red / black , so it disappears , having my stuff over 40 years , you can bet , problem elimination , was a regular thing . simple ex , that sloppy pto lever set up , and related bearing , regrease , makes for a very smooth , easy , quiet , engagement , never burned out a pto clutch , only suggestions , been road testing them for years , no issues . ever spring assist a cable ? what could you possibly do ? pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bar Nuthin 1,488 #15 Posted November 5 (edited) @ebinmaine for the tie rods, are you guys threading your own rods or using all thread? Edited November 5 by Bar Nuthin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,617 #16 Posted November 5 21 minutes ago, Bar Nuthin said: @ebinmaine for the tie rods, are you guys threading your own rods or using all thread? I've done both. I like the look of a solid round rod with internal threads. I don't have a metal lathe and my drill press has a wicked wobble I have not fixed yet. I've had different people here on Red Square make them up for me on different occasions. I have also used threaded rod/ all thread. The one word of caution I'll say about that is, most of your standard issue hardware store or Big Box store material seems to be grade 2 or grade 5 at best. For our usage on rough terrain that is not strong enough. Special order grade 8 or even harder. 10 hours ago, GeneB said: I got mine on Amazon “PHSB8 Female Rod End Bearing 1/2 Inch Bore and 1/2-20 Right Hand Threaded Rod End Joint Bearing, Self-Lubricating Joint Rod Ends - 2pcs”. $8.99 pair Just wanted to mention why I source mine from McMaster Carr. I can't speak for quality one way or the other for the ones on the jungle site. I do know that the ones I am purchasing are between $8 and $11 each and they are USA made with very fine tolerances. IMHO Jeff Bezos already has way too much money. I only buy there as a last resort. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 12,243 #17 Posted November 5 About the only thing I'll use heim joints for is tie rods. I actually use 3/8"-24 threaded rod with female heims. A chunk of 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID tubing cut to length cleans things up. Getting the tube length proper for correct alignment (correct enough for these machines) isn't a problem. I've never broken the lighter rod. 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,086 #18 Posted November 5 (edited) 3 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Just wanted to mention why I source mine from McMaster Carr. I can't speak for quality one way or the other for the ones on the jungle site. I do know that the ones I am purchasing are between $8 and $11 each and they are USA made with very fine tolerances. I second that source for quality parts. It's similar to what we eperience with front wheel ball bearings. Different manufacturers market them in an array of prices. A Design Engineer I worked with had a poster in his cubicle that read "Cheap is not always good... Good is never cheap. Pick one" Edited November 5 by ri702bill 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites