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1987_WHEEHORSE312

LED light replacement

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1987_WHEEHORSE312

I sourced these lights off Amazon gor $25 for the pair. They are direct boltup, plug and play, no modification required. You can see the huge improvement they make over stock. 

 

 

I have included photos of the part number and the box they came in. 

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Sparky

Couple of mine have LED’s. Very happy with em 

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1987_WHEEHORSE312
14 minutes ago, Sparky said:

Couple of mine have LED’s. Very happy with em 

Awesome to hear!

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kpinnc
1 hour ago, Sparky said:

Couple of mine have LED’s. Very happy with em 

 

All of mine have LEDs. Very few "new" stuff is an improvement nowadays, but this is one for sure. 

 

 

IMG_20230503_203550505.jpg

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1987_WHEEHORSE312
7 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

All of mine have LEDs. Very few "new" stuff is an improvement nowadays, but this is one for sure. 

 

 

IMG_20230503_203550505.jpg

Awesome! I cant wait till snow season to use the lights! 

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Bar Nuthin

The comparison between the LED and the sealed beams is quite significant,

IMG_2430.jpg.780a760a66e0ab6aee25565ddf2922f4.jpg

 

I just scored a couple more pair of vintage tractor lights earlier this week.

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I like the ones with the cupped base and internal wire, but they're harder to locate.

image.png.010a48641a8a1e42edb898eed6b296d5.png

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ebinmaine
On 10/29/2025 at 11:18 PM, kpinnc said:

 

All of mine have LEDs. Very few "new" stuff is an improvement nowadays, but this is one for sure. 

 

 

Agreed. 

Every build we do or every light that gets replaced is LED.  

 

HUGE difference in the dark moving snow. 

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MainelyWheelhorse
On 10/29/2025 at 11:18 PM, kpinnc said:

 

All of mine have LEDs. Very few "new" stuff is an improvement nowadays, but this is one for sure. 


@1987_WHEEHORSE312 @kpinnc I’ve upgraded 2 of my three tractors to the PAR 36 LED headlights. one set from Home Depot, one from Amazon. I agree, it’s a definite improvement. The C-141 Auto is the next upgrade candidate.

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DBlackston

I am pretty much LED everything across the board. Theyre cheap and reliable, plus a huge upgrade typically.

 

House, cars and trucks, tractors, etc...

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ebinmaine
6 hours ago, DBlackston said:

I am pretty much LED everything across the board. Theyre cheap and reliable, plus a huge upgrade typically.

 

Agreed.  

 

 

6 hours ago, DBlackston said:

 

House, cars and trucks, tractors, etc...

 

 

Same. 

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Bar Nuthin
On 10/30/2025 at 8:32 AM, Bar Nuthin said:

I just scored a couple more pair of vintage tractor lights earlier this week.

s-l1600.jpg.8fc9b42f6e4d13950e7efdb8aa52e03a.jpg

 

I thought I was getting 4" tractor lights - turns out they are 7" lights (big tractor or possible vehicle). They're in great shape overall so, I guess I'll clean them up a little and try and find someone that can use them.

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Bar Nuthin
10 hours ago, DBlackston said:

I am pretty much LED everything across the board. Theyre cheap and reliable, plus a huge upgrade typically.

 

House, cars and trucks, tractors, etc...

Same here. Several of them are smart bulbs. I tell Alexa good morning, and my home office lights come on at 30% brightness. Once I get my **** together and some coffee in my system, I tell her "bright light" and they bump up to full brightness.

 

I have LEDs in my shop, but I kept one 6 bulb bank of fluorescents in the center of the shop. I was resizing and polishing my wedding band one day and thought I had it perfect - until I walked under the fluorescents. I could clearly see some tooling marks that I didn't get polished out. Under the LED's they were invisible. Evidently, something in the color spectrum. So now when I'm looking at something with regards to surface finish, I always make sure to check under various lighting.

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Handy Don
1 hour ago, Bar Nuthin said:

Evidently, something in the color spectrum.

My neighbor is a lighting engineer and he schooled me on both temperature and spectrum after he noticed that I’d equipped my kitchen fluorescents with one each of a warm and daylight tube. He approved!

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Lagersolut

Can you switch to LED with lights powered off the stator  vs the battery - I never upgraded because of the variable voltage on the 416 and frowned doing a rewire to come off battery 

Edited by Lagersolut

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kpinnc
4 hours ago, Lagersolut said:

Can you switch to LED with lights powered off the magneto vs the battery - I never upgraded because of the variable voltage on the 416 and frowned doing a rewire to come off battery 

 

The magneto provides power to your spark plug- once per revolution of the flywheel. I assume you meant the stator (AC) or rectifier (DC). Some manufacturers have used AC for lights but I wouldn't do that because any loss in the AC will affect the DC output of the rectifier. You can connect directly to the rectifier output at the battery side of the starter solenoid if you prefer. 

 

Most magneto ignition key switches have a tab labeled "L" for lights or accessories. You can usually splice in there and the lights will only work when the switch is in the first detent or when the engine is running. Be sure and add an inline fuse holder. 

 

And just my opinion, but unless you are using LEDs, I would include a voltmeter if you don't already have one. It's a nice failsafe to make sure the lights you install don't drag the charge voltage below about 12.7 VDC. Otherwise you could overload the rectifier and drain the battery even with the engine running. 

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Lagersolut
6 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

The magneto provides power to your spark plug- once per revolution of the flywheel. I assume you meant the stator (AC) or rectifier (DC). Some manufacturers have used AC for lights but I wouldn't do that because any loss in the AC will affect the DC output of the rectifier. You can connect directly to the rectifier output at the battery side of the starter solenoid if you prefer. 

 

Most magneto ignition key switches have a tab labeled "L" for lights or accessories. You can usually splice in there and the lights will only work when the switch is in the first detent or when the engine is running. Be sure and add an inline fuse holder. 

 

And just my opinion, but unless you are using LEDs, I would include a voltmeter if you don't already have one. It's a nice failsafe to make sure the lights you install don't drag the charge voltage below about 12.7 VDC. Otherwise you could overload the rectifier and drain the battery even with the engine running. 


My mistake - I meant stator - my 416 the lights are powered off the stator - idle lights are dim - throttle up they’re bright … I’m by no stretch an electrical guru but it was always my thinking the lights power supply would need to be converted over to battery for LED to work … 

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WHX??

Like @Achto always says the stock lights are akin to holding a candle in front of you. 

 

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, Lagersolut said:


My mistake - I meant stator - my 416 the lights are powered off the stator - idle lights are dim - throttle up they’re bright … I’m by no stretch an electrical guru but it was always my thinking the lights power supply would need to be converted over to battery for LED to work … 

 

If you run the tractor at all at night, it's absolutely worth it to make the change over to LED. For you to run two or three wires from the battery to a switch, including a fuse. Easy peasy.

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peter lena

@1987_WHEEHORSE312  also agree on the LED  DIFFERENCE ,  DO A LOT OF ROAD EDGE PLOWING  , often at night  , minimal traffic , etc , the back of the tractor is just glowing red  ,  also have a  reflector  back there .  at walmart  , they have a wall full of  same size bolt on  lights , looks like a perfect fit  .  also wear a  reflective vest  . pete

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