702854boy 253 #1 Posted October 25 Would a piece of rod or all thread be able to be modded to work as a lift cable on a 702 and 854? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,582 #2 Posted October 26 @Handy Don @pfrederi (?) may have talked about this? IIRC it has to be a cable because of a need for flexibility?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 15,718 #3 Posted October 26 I've seen it done with 3/8 all thread but you still need something flexible behind the tranny. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,582 #4 Posted October 26 4 minutes ago, kpinnc said: I've seen it done with 3/8 all thread but you still need something flexible behind the tranny. Because of the up/down pivoting? How about at the front where the lift arm connects? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 15,718 #5 Posted October 26 (edited) 53 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Because of the up/down pivoting? How about at the front where the lift arm connects? What I've seen done was on a C-81 8 speed. I can't remember if an extra link was used at the bellcrank or not but I do remember that because it isn't a straight line to whatever hitch (clevis/ slot/ etc), the rear required something that allowed for flexing. It also used a modified transmission top tube that had no bend in it. It's been several years and I didn't take pictures but it seemed to work OK. Another option might be to add a fixed extention to the arm of whatever hitch is used to create a straighter line to the bellcrank but that would proportionally reduce how much up/ down travel you'd get at the hitch. Edited October 26 by kpinnc 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,670 #6 Posted October 26 15 hours ago, kpinnc said: I've seen it done with 3/8 all thread but you still need something flexible behind the tranny. I’d avoid all-thread anywhere it can be in sliding contact with a fixed surface (scrape/rub) for sure. Personally, I avoid it in general as it’s usually low strength steel and tough to make look nice. 14 hours ago, kpinnc said: because it isn't a straight line to whatever hitch (clevis/ slot/ etc), the rear required something that allowed for flexing Exactly. AND the front flexes too! The cable is guided through a straight “groove” in the fender support bracket but both the rock shaft arm and the slot hitch pivot on their respective hinge points. It’d require a bunch of sheet metal mods to clear a non-rubbing path for a fixed rod. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 15,718 #7 Posted October 26 27 minutes ago, Handy Don said: I’d avoid all-thread anywhere it can be in sliding contact with a fixed surface (scrape/rub) for sure. Personally, I avoid it in general as it’s usually low strength steel and tough to make look nice. Agreed. Better to use steel rod and just thread the ends. 28 minutes ago, Handy Don said: The cable is guided through a straight “groove” in the fender support bracket but both the rock shaft arm and the slot hitch pivot on their respective hinge points. It’d require a bunch of sheet metal mods to clear a non-rubbing path for a fixed rod. Exactly why I made mine the way I did. The bellcrank had to be modified, and the hoodstand, and then the rod to the rear. Plus it required a new pivot at the back. The simplest answer to all modification questions should be: "depends on how much time and money you want to spend on it". Almost anything can be done, it's a matter of how much work you want to invest in it. It can be ALOT. Ask me how I know... 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,582 #8 Posted October 26 1 hour ago, Handy Don said: I’d avoid all-thread anywhere it can be in sliding contact with a fixed surface (scrape/rub) for sure. Personally, I avoid it in general as it’s usually low strength steel Definitely agreed. Just an FYI.... McMaster Carr sells high strength threaded rod. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 62,196 #9 Posted October 27 5 hours ago, kpinnc said: The simplest answer to all modification questions should be: "depends on how much time and money you want to spend on it". Almost anything can be done, it's a matter of how much work you want to invest in it. It can be ALOT. Ask me how I know... I guess some one inch water pipe could be bent to fit and a chain run through it with a clevis at each end. Or you could just buy the correct cable system from Lowell and call it done. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/3931-wheel-horse-reproduction-lift-cable/ 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,459 #10 Posted October 27 (edited) the key to cable is LUBRICANT , napa , mac's chain and cable spray is made for cable FLEXABILITY , get some INTO cable and flexes with ease . also excellent rustproofing creep , in / on a car / truck . used to service NG truck winches , had 55 gal drums of texaco cosmoline , frequently went over all body / spring seaming , only a suggestion , pete Edited October 27 by peter lena Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
