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Nick

Grader blade build pictures

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Nick

I dug around my pictures and found some of building both the 42" and 54" grader blades. I kind of rushed the 54" blade but it works ok. Both were built with a WH lawn tractor blade frame and a cut down heavy garden tractor blade. I also found a couple pictures of my first grader blade project. It was all built from a garden tractor snow blade with a frame put on it. I think this could have been the first attachment I ever built and did the welding on. It didnt look as nice as the next few I built, was also harder to angle, but I did a lot of work with that blade. It was also built with things around the parts pile so no extra cash was spent on it.

Nick in Ohio

Slideshow of pictures

Link to complete album

Clickable thumbs

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kj4kicks

Nice handywork there Nick !! :thumbs:

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Rollerman

Nick I still have that blade I picked up in Wapack?

I also have this stick welder I have yet to play with.... :thumbs:

Maybe be a good project to get started on when I finish the Pond.

Expect some emails with a few questions.... :thumbs:

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Greg B.

I agree, Nick, very nice. It's difficult to keep coming up with accolades for all of you clever craftsmen. :thumbs:

A question: If a mid mount grader works in trail, from the mount and a rear mount grader is pushed by the rear axle, which one is better for (easier on) the tractor? Specifically a long frame.

Greg B.

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Nick

Greg,

I'm not sure if one style is going to have more or less of an impact on the tractor. Now I've never used the mid attach trail style grader but my guess is that between the two it could be easier on the tractor. That said Ive been using my rear mounted blades for about 10 years and have yet to see any problems. The blades have been on everything from my 1.5hp 502 narrow front tractor up to the 520-H. I most often use them on an 857 or Commando 8 and driving in 3rd gear I have come to some sudden stops. But so far there is no known damage to tractor or operator. :thumbs:

Nick in Ohio

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TT

I built the drag style -- mainly because a real motor grader pulls the blade from the front -- and also because you don't need a rear axle hitch on every tractor you want to use it on. The narrower mounting frame and the extra bit of slop in the front mount also allows me to push on one side of the blade with my foot to be able to grade at an angle, which comes in handy along the edge of the road.

Mine was a bit more involved as far as fabrication because the only "ready made" piece I used was the top 7" of a 39" Sears dozer blade. Everything else was either donated by the Sears tractor, a Yamaha motorcycle, or bought at the hardware store in town. (I think I have $13.00 in it, including the paint :thumbs: )

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The main advantage (I can see) of using the drag blade is the ability for it to skip over something easier, rather than being jammed in to it harder. (that's why the dozer blades have trip springs) I would think that the push-type grader blade could actually try to "unload" the rear tires in certain circumstances, by pushing upward on the rear of the tractor. (a good built-in "safety feature", perhaps ?)

Aside from the extra stress placed on the transaxle mount, the push-style blade shouldn't harm the tractor if it's used correctly. It's really no different than using a dozer blade to level dirt or push snow.

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Nick

Guess I'll just have to try building a mid hitch style blade and do some side by side stress testing. Not sure though if it would go on the list before or after the 3pt hitch project. A 3pt with a box blade and scarifiers might even replace the grader blade for some things. But thats another topic. :thumbs:

Nick in Ohio

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sorekiwi

Dammit, you guys are talking me into starting another project!

I think I like the drag type blade better, seems like the simpler, more compact design.

Also I have been unable to get hold of Ken Stephens, so it looks like the only option right now, unless I want to sell and arm and a leg to buy one on ebay...

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Greg B.

Nick and Terry,

Thanks for your perspectives on this. For me, there is just something inherently wrong about applying shock loads to thin section cast iron. I realize that smarter, better educated people than I will ever be, figured this out when they built them.

I believe that if I was, and I very well may, building one of these, I would be inclined to go with the center mount. If I have been absorbing the various threads correctly, by utilizing a solid link on the hydraulics, you should be able to apply down pressure.

Thanks again,

Greg B.

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Nick

Well after talking about the two styles of grader blade cabin fever set in and I had to start on a mid mounted grader. I pulled out a Lawn Ranger plow frame and also the top half of a blade that was used to build another grader several years ago(never throw out good bits). The temp was only up to around 30 but I did get a good start on the project. Got some pictures of the progress so far, even took a few with some sparks like Mr Ian. :thumbs: Should add did ya know those sparks will burn a hole in your clothing before you even know it. :thumbs::P

So far I cut the back loose from the LR plow frame and will spin that around for the blade mount. The snow plow was allready cut down but had to trim a few more inches off it. Its a bit of a rush job in the cold weather but might work yet. :D Get it done before the next snow/ice storm and I can even do some stress testin or as I more often call it the "Go or Blow" testing.

Nick in Ohio

th_midgrader013.jpgth_midgrader11.jpgth_midgrader015.jpgth_midgrader003.jpg

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TT

Way to go, Nick! :thumbs:

I like to see sparks flying, but not burn holes. :thumbs:

The mid-mount pull-type blade is definitely the easiest to install and remove -- I can have mine off in about 12 seconds. (and that's even on the 1056 -- which doesn't have the push button release on the mid hitch!)

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Nick

Terry,

I could have waited for some measurments but instead just printed a couple of your pictures and went to the garage. Funny thing is I did a Yahoo picture search for "wheel horse" grader blade and the only two that came up were in one of your photo albums. :thumbs:

I was kind of surprised the first time I burnt holes in my cheap welding gloves while using an angle grinder. :thumbs:

Nick in Ohio

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TT

That's a shame, Nick.....

I sent all of the measurements to Joel so he could fab one up for himself. He probably has them all written down somewhere. :thumbs:

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combatmp29r

Yep sure do! Thats what I built mine off of. I didn't have a plow frame to work from though. Hmmm that would have been even easier :thumbs: If any one wants the measurements i have them writtwen on a sketch to help out.

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kpinnc

Terry and Nick,

Great job on both style blades!

Now you've got me wanting one. That's never a good thing... :thumbs:

Kevin

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TT

I've "seen" your fabrication work, Kevin and there isn't a doubt in my mind that you could whip up a :thumbs: grader blade in a few hours. :D

It should be a "snap" compared to that three point hitch! :thumbs:

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combatmp29r

Definately. Kevin I have a total of 4 hours in mine and that includes rattle can paint. Now it took 2 weeks to get the 4 hours, but still only 4 hours of work. It would be a breeze compared to the 3 point :thumbs:

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kpinnc

Terry, Joel, thanks for the compliments. Given the work the two of you have done on your tractors, those are really something in my book.

I've actually been toying with the idea of a rear-mounted blade for the 3 point, if I ever finish the thing. But the belly-mounted blade just looks awesome, and you don't need a 3 point on every tractor...

Kevin

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