New member and new to me 520h

[kpinnc 15,931]

9 hours ago, iR8Leprechaun said:

Can't figure why it would Crack so many places.

 

Looks like it's been very hot repeatedly, or sprayed with water when hot just once. 

 

Running that engine with that cracked PTO bell would be unsafe to say the least. 

 

Any improper adjustments on the PTO when the engine is running will generate alot of heat on the bell. Luckily they are still available as used. 

Edited October 9 by kpinnc

[lynnmor 8,140]

That is a casting so skip the welding.  You can find parts at A-Z Tractor and often on eBay.  That slide hammer can be hard on the engine thrust bearing, I hope you didn't hit it hard.

[iR8Leprechaun 47]

10 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

Looks like it's been very hot repeatedly, or sprayed with water when hot just once. 

 

Running that engine with that cracked PTO bell would be unsafe to say the least. 

 

Any improper adjustments on the PTO when the engine is running will generate alot of heat on the bell. Luckily they are still available as used. 

That could very well be what caused it. 

 

2 hours ago, lynnmor said:

That is a casting so skip the welding.  You can find parts at A-Z Tractor and often on eBay.  That slide hammer can be hard on the engine thrust bearing, I hope you didn't hit it hard.

I've welded cast before with varying results. Would prefer an uncracked replacement though, for sure. 

 

As for the slide hammer, tiny taps. Lots of penetrating oil, little heat, and lots of tiny taps. 

[Wayne0 1,386]

22 hours ago, iR8Leprechaun said:

Got it off. Slide hammer FTW. Clutch plate also has a Crack. Needle bearings look ok. Need some grease, but they roll ok. The pulley actually had 3 cracks. Can't figure why it would Crack so many places. Still think I'm going to grind and weld and grind some more. Unless I can find a whole setup for reasonable price. 

 

This is all basically a charity project, so I'm not trying to be cheap, buuutttttt I can't afford to be thorough either. At least not right now. 

My 520H bell was cracked too. Don't try to fix it. I found one on fleabay for short money.

[iR8Leprechaun 47]

Got new tires mounted, not seated, but mounted. Tried everything I have available to get it, going to have to take it to a tire shop and have them blast them. 

 

Aside from that, got a pulley on order for it. I also ordered a new oil filter, seeing as the one that was on it decided it was over life. On a completely unrelated note, the engine makes fine oil pressure. Hopefully not so much that it explodes an oil filter.  Again, totally unrelated. 

 

Getting close to fully operational, just hope I don't run into any more issues with it until AFTER the snow. 

[iR8Leprechaun 47]

Went with these tires. 

[iR8Leprechaun 47]

On 10/7/2025 at 7:07 PM, JCM said:

Nice to see someone saving another 520 instead or parting it out.     Good luck with it. Great tractor when properly maintained. 

I see you have what appears to be the same blower I have. I am missing the lift link that has a slotted hole and 4 holes in the top. Is there any way you could get me some specs on it so I can make one? The part is number 1 in the diagram. 

[WHX?? 53,079]

On 10/19/2025 at 5:20 PM, iR8Leprechaun said:

not seated, but mounted. Tried everything I have available

The tie down trick did not work? Always works for me unless the tire is really bad from shipping. 

 

I may have that link for sale or can at lease get you the dims. 

[iR8Leprechaun 47]

45 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

The tie down trick did not work? Always works for me unless the tire is really bad from shipping. 

 

I may have that link for sale or can at lease get you the dims. 

Tie down AND starter fluid trick combined didn't even work. Tire shop got it though. 

 

I am pretty sure that is the only part that is missing. Should have seen my face after dragging that heavy pig out of the bushes and getting it all hooked up, only to find out I couldn't lift it. I was a bit perturbed. Besides maybe a few pins and a spring, I think that is the only thing I need to get it going. I appreciate you. 

[iR8Leprechaun 47]

A picture with the new tires, because I know how we all feel about pictures. 

 

For anyone wondering, I almost pushed over a 4-5" sumac tree testing out the hydro system. The tires almost didn't give up the traction. They should do great in the snow. 

[iR8Leprechaun 47]

Intermittent electrical issues are enough to make you lose your mind. 

 

Keep popping the 25 amp fuse. I have gotten into everything except the relays. I just can't figure out what would be grounding out. This is probably going to be a job for the spring. 

 

I didn't see any frayed wires for the seat switch, and it only seems to pop when I'm moving quick, or making direction changes. Put a new fuse in and it is immediately fine, don't even touch anything. I just feel like it is a really easy fix, but I've looked at it so long now that it doesn't make sense anymore. 

[953 nut 62,561]

18 hours ago, iR8Leprechaun said:

Keep popping the 25 amp fuse. I have gotten into everything except the relays. I just can't figure out what would be grounding out.

    Back away from the relays, they are not the problem.

The 25 amp fuse is between the 9 pin connector and your ignition switch. Closely examine that RED wire to and from the fuse, the fuse holder, the connection at the ignition switch and the 9 pin connection itself. It doesn't take a whole lot of corrosion to upset your electrical system.

[Handy Don 14,858]

I suspect you’ll ultimately find insulation on a connector or wire that is permitting a short to ground. It only takes a moment of contact to toast a fuse!

If the red wire check comes up dry, start on the runs from the Ignition switch from the Ignition terminal. 

 

Yes, a damaged relay could have a short internally, but that’s a low probability IMHO. 

[WHX?? 53,079]

Here's the lift link dims.

The holes & slot are are about 9/16. 1/4 plate steel should do it. I wouldn't be afraid to drill a few more of the round holes for more adjustability. Mine doesn't lift very high and when it does it's crooked. Problem is to get it to lift higher it won't lower proper. 

 Lemme know if you need more. 

This one is off a parts deuce that I don't know if I want to part out or not. Seems to be in pretty good shape so might try and sell at the BS as all there. 

 

Edited October 29 by WHX??

[iR8Leprechaun 47]

11 hours ago, 953 nut said:

    Back away from the relays, they are not the problem.

The 25 amp fuse is between the 9 pin connector and your ignition switch. Closely examine that RED wire to and from the fuse, the fuse holder, the connection at the ignition switch and the 9 pin connection itself. It doesn't take a whole lot of corrosion to upset your electrical system.

I took the plugs apart and hit them with a wire brush and dielectric grease. I know the fuse blocks are notorious for being trash, so I'll probably end up throwing a homemade version up. 

 

8 hours ago, Handy Don said:

I suspect you’ll ultimately find insulation on a connector or wire that is permitting a short to ground. It only takes a moment of contact to toast a fuse!

If the red wire check comes up dry, start on the runs from the Ignition switch from the Ignition terminal. 

 

Yes, a damaged relay could have a short internally, but that’s a low probability IMHO. 

I agree, relays are seldom the problem. I was thinking ignition side, but I'll wait and see of the terminal cleaning I did helps. 

 

2 hours ago, WHX?? said:

Here's the lift link dims.

The holes & slot are are about 9/16. 1/4 plate steel should do it. I wouldn't be afraid to drill a few more of the round holes for more adjustability. Mine doesn't lift very high and when it does it's crooked. Problem is to get it to lift higher it won't lower proper. 

 Lemme know if you need more. 

This one is off a parts deuce that I don't know if I want to part out or not. Seems to be in pretty good shape so might try and sell at the BS as all there. 

 

You. Are. Awesome!  Thank you so much. I was starting to think this part was a red herring. 

[953 nut 62,561]

I prefer the 30 amp weather tight fuse holders.            

[Handy Don 14,858]

3 hours ago, 953 nut said:

I prefer the 30 amp weather tight fuse holders.            

Of course, other amperages work in those holders!

I like these, too, but that they come with rather short leads has meant splices to get the fuse holder positioned in a convenient location for which i use these heat gun activated solder connectors. Where needed, I also add a layer of heat shrink tubing over the installed connector to add strength (and yes, ya gotta remember to thread the shrink on and out of the way before making the connection. 😉

Edited October 30 by Handy Don

[Handy Don 14,858]

19 hours ago, WHX?? said:

Here's the lift link dims.

 

This seemingly simple piece of bar with some holes illustrates some very clever and efficient engineering!

Edited October 30 by Handy Don

[iR8Leprechaun 47]

I am thinking that I will put in a 6 way marine fuse block. I want to add more lighting for after dark snow removal, and if I am already replacing the fuse block, I may as well pre run the wires for it. If I can get back down to where the tractor was, they apparently had a cab for it too. I'm hoping it isn't wrecked. I'll maybe add a small heater/defroster too if it isn't.  

 

 

In other news, I got the PTO pulley yesterday. Installed it and ran the belt through. The auger was a bit seized, which isn't surprising after being outside for near 20 years. I engaged the PTO a few times to try and break it free. After the third try, I tightened the bell crank a bit, then threw the handle a 4th time. The augers roared to life and a cloud of rusty particles flew out of the chute. I shut it down and am going to replace the oils in the gear boxes next. Maybe even fit it with a brand new roller chain. All in all, I am super impressed with how this thing came together after all this time. Sure, it is a bit rough, and with the money I put into it I could have bought a nice regular mower with blower, but I have really fallen hard for this thing. I catch myself looking for others to fix now. It is dangerous. 

 

[ineedanother 1,759]

7 hours ago, iR8Leprechaun said:

I catch myself looking for others to fix now. It is dangerous. 

 

...said most everyone on this site  

[iR8Leprechaun 47]

This electrical stuff is killing me. 

 

I replaced the fuse block and fixed the connector. Fired it up. Put in gear and it popped the same fuse. So that pointed me to the drive interlock switch. I unplugged it and turned the key, it popped as soon as I did it. The light blue wire from the drive neutral position switch grounds out regardless of key position. 

[iR8Leprechaun 47]

While I was searching for the problem, I found the battery wire to the ignition switch was also broken. The terminal in the plug to the switch was broken, so it looked fine and had continuity, but it was initially missed. I only noticed that because the headlights were flickering when I was moving the wire bundle. So I fixed all of that, rechecked all of the terminals, and figured that was the problem. Nope! Popped it again. I had the seat flipped up because I lost a socket under it. When I replaced the fuse, and turned the key again, I saw the faintest flash come from under the seat pan. I removed the seat and pan and started looking. None of the wires showed any signbof damage exept the fuel sending init wire. So I put another fuse in (I'm using 15 amp fuses for troubleshooting) and started moving stuff. 

Of all of the things, it was the taillights. The wires were on the bell crank and whenever they would touch the tail light wire and it would arc through the insulation, no visible damage or anything. It was strange. I cut out the factory splices and did my own. I also installed new tail lights i got at. Just a simple oval red marker light. Put it all back together and drove the snot out of it. Put an hour on it and it seems to be fixed. To look at the wiring diagram, I don't see how the 25 amp fuse was blowing from the tail light, but it was.