Bar Nuthin 1,602 #1 Posted October 2 I now have 3 Wheel Horses and all of them have been rode hard and put away wet. '73 No Name, 76 C-120, and a '79 C-141. Each of them has slop in the front spindles when lifted off the ground. I bought new spindles bearings for the C-120, and it took care of the slop at the wheel, but I still have some slop at the cross axle. I just picked up the other 2 tractors and haven't gotten into them yet, but at a minimum, they'll be getting new bearings. My question is, how much free play is acceptable at the spindle/axle before it's a concern? It seems to be pretty common on every old tractor I've looked at. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,934 #2 Posted October 2 I'm not sure I could answer you with a particular specification but you want it to be as close to zero as possible. At the recommendation of the folks here on the site, several years ago I bought a 7/8 reamer along with appropriate 3/4 ID bushings. Make sure you get the flanges as thin as possible. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bar Nuthin 1,602 #3 Posted October 2 (edited) 3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I'm not sure I could answer you with a particular specification but you want it to be as close to zero as possible. At the recommendation of the folks here on the site, several years ago I bought a 7/8 reamer along with appropriate 3/4 ID bushings. Make sure you get the flanges as thin as possible. Yes, I've been considering this. Just checking to make sure my OCD isn't causing me to overreact. Edited October 2 by Bar Nuthin added photo 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bar Nuthin 1,602 #4 Posted October 2 5 minutes ago, Bar Nuthin said: Yes, I've been considering this. I think I'll look for a short piece of 3/4" rod to use as a gauge to decide how much of the play is from the spindle vs the axle. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,934 #5 Posted October 2 Center pins are easily reproduced as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,245 #6 Posted October 2 (edited) I use the milling machine to fix a front axle, with an upgrade or two. First setup is to drill / ream the pivot thru hole and install sleeve bearings from each side. I also face the the outer ends of the bore to be smooth and square to the bore. Play is taken up with shims at assembly. Second setup - I use the pivot hole to help hold the axle square for machining. As the underside of the axle wears, there is excess vertical movement. I remove material on the bottom to allow using either a flange bearing or the thrust washer / bearing stack and only leave .010 to .015 vertical movement. Next, the spindles them selves may have spots that are excessively worn - those get TIG welded up and filed for a proper fit. There should be just a bit of preload on the wheel ball bearings to immobilize the inner races so they do not spin on the shaft. Shim accordingly. Reinstall axle and install a new set of adjustable Heim rod end tierods. This allows you the center the steering wheel and get proper 1/8" toe-in alignment. Finished product is better than new.... Edited October 2 by ri702bill 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 15,931 #7 Posted October 3 7 hours ago, ri702bill said: I use the milling machine to fix a front axle, with an upgrade or two. I think I know where I'm sending my next axle to for repairs... VERY nice setup! 4 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,869 #8 Posted October 3 (edited) 20 hours ago, ri702bill said: I use the milling machine to fix a front axle, with an upgrade or two. I got to watch part of this process on a 312 axle. As is so often the case, observing someone having the needed skills and tooling and carefully doing the multi-step setup and preparation was fascinating. Seeing the machine taking off a couple of thousandths on each pass was almost hypnotic! 20 hours ago, ri702bill said: I remove material on the bottom to allow using either a flange bearing or the thrust washer / bearing stack and only leave .010 to .015 vertical movement. Thrust bearings (standard on the swept 520-H) noticeably eased our steering effort. Importantly, while that axle was being overhauled, I discovered that one spindle’s lever arm was bent. How'd it happen? I don’t know, but that surely contributed to the wonky steering. Edited October 3 by Handy Don 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,934 #9 Posted October 3 4 hours ago, Handy Don said: wonky You and your technical terms...... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,245 #10 Posted October 4 19 hours ago, Handy Don said: wonky Akin to cattywampus and willy-nilly. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bar Nuthin 1,602 #11 Posted October 4 16 hours ago, ebinmaine said: You and your technical terms...... Coming from the guy that waggles magnets. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 74,934 #12 Posted October 4 1 hour ago, Bar Nuthin said: Coming from the guy that waggles magnets. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 7,418 #13 Posted October 6 (edited) On the 1973 and later models you can take most of the axle movement by fixing the front hitch. We drilled out the front hitch and made a 1/2" thick stepped bushing that was welded in. Also made a new over sized pivot pin. Can't post pictures as the Government site I used is shut down. Edited October 7 by Lee1977 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
