Reliable parts

[markseven 13]

Any thoughts on where two turn to 

For reliable carburetor? 

Ebay Amazon they all have tons 

Of them but are they reliable? 

 

 

[ri702bill 10,027]

For what it's worth - you are always better off to rebuild an OE carb, IF it is indeed not worn out beyond repair.

[ML3 1,940]

I definitely agree that if original carb is able to be rebuilt thats probably best option. However,  Ive bought 3 cheapo Amazon carbs & had no issues with any of them. Installed on C105, 604, & 654. The 654 is my regular mower & plow snow with it also. No issues with carb in hot or cold weather for last 2 1/2yrs......

[Ed Kennell 43,091]

Look closely at the choke lever.   Half of the imports have the choke lever reversed.

[Handy Don 14,635]

I, too, have had success with aftermarket carbs.

Two things I’ve learned, though (in addition to @Ed Kennell’s pay attention to the choke lever warning):

1. They normally come “ready to run”, i.e. with mixture screws already in the correct initial settings. Some folks will want to tinker and clean them before initial use. Fine, but be careful because the needle valve threading will be different than OEM. Make sure to count the exact number of full and partial turns needed to gently close the valve before taking it out--and write it down for future reference--so you can return the valve to that position after cleaning. Likewise, the OEM manual guidelines, e.g. “two and a half turns,” for an initial setting are unlikely to work!
2. They are “fit for purpose” as a complete unit but typically built with metric tooling and specs. They’ll bolt in just right, but their other parts are not interchangeable with OEM parts or even parts from other aftermarket carbs!

[ri702bill 10,027]

My gripe with most of the imports is the rather misleading application fits this series K91 thru K181.

TRUE, it is possible to mount it on all of them - but - the bore size is that of the smaller K91 size carb. It is definetly undersized for optimal performance on a K181...

[Handy Don 14,635]

3 hours ago, ri702bill said:

My gripe with most of the imports is the rather misleading application fits this series K91 thru K181.

TRUE, it is possible to mount it on all of them - but - the bore size is that of the smaller K91 size carb. It is definetly undersized for optimal performance on a K181...

Excellent point. Perhaps the carb is actually “Mama Bear” sized--somewhere between the two specs?

 

Some research yields:

Kohler K91: Kohler #16 carburetor, throttle bore 0.810 inches, venturi 0.542 inches

Kohler K181: Kohler #26 carburetor, throttle bore 1.07 inches, venturi 0.812 inches

 

Comparing;

throttle bores: π*.405^2=0.515 vs. π*.5035^2=0.796  ==> 55% larger -- a big difference

venturi: π*.271^2=0.231 vs. π*.406^2=0.518 ==> 124% larger -- wow!

 

Edited September 30 by Handy Don

[ri702bill 10,027]

Don seems to get excited about data and percentages!!! 

Correct on the sizing - I suppose a true K91 carb on a K181 would never achieve top speed and power....

As I recall, the import is closer in size to the smallest Carter Model N...

[Handy Don 14,635]

1 minute ago, ri702bill said:

the import is closer in size to the smallest Carter Model N...

Not biting...😬

[953 nut 62,143]

15 hours ago, ri702bill said:

For what it's worth - you are always better off to rebuild an OE carb, IF it is indeed not worn out beyond repair.

"Universal Fits ALL" Chinese carburetors are advertised a fitting all Kohler 10, 12, 14, and 16 HP engines. 10 and 12 HP use a #26 and 14 and 16 HP use a # 30 so it is imposable to have a FITS ALL work properly on all of them.     

The one and only chinesium carburetor I ever bought wouldn't idle down regardless of what was done with the adjustments. An autopsy revealed that it was a #26 with the main jet and needle from a # 30. I used the main jet and needle from an old Carter that had a worn throttle shaft and did get it to work well. Also replaced the plastic float with a brass one.

[adsm08 3,616]

10 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

"Universal Fits ALL" Chinese carburetors are advertised a fitting all Kohler 10, 12, 14, and 16 HP engines. 10 and 12 HP use a #26 and 14 and 16 HP use a # 30 so it is imposable to have a FITS ALL work properly on all of them.

 

That fitment guide was probably written by the same guy that wrote the parts catalog that listed ball joints for a 1997 Bronco II.

[Maz91 286]

11 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Comparing;

throttle bores: π*.405^2=0.515 vs. π*.5035^2=0.796  ==> 55% larger -- a big difference

venturi: π*.271^2=0.231 vs. π*.406^2=0.518 ==> 124% larger -- wow!

 

🤯 

[ri702bill 10,027]

3 hours ago, Maz91 said:

🤯

It's the Engineer Thing - once you get it , the world is your Statistical Playground.... 

[JoeM 8,879]

12 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Also replaced the plastic float with a brass one.

Usually do okay on the cheap carbs.

Got one of those HIPA carbs and the body / machine work was exceptional. Plastic float was a no go. It was a crap shoot on if it was going to turn off. So I did my turn and returned it. 

For all the hassle I just should have replaced it like you did with a brass one. I don't throw any carbs away I figure there was a good float floating around.