Milk shake anyone?

[sqrlgtr 762]

Started an overnight drain on a 856 I had gotten at the big show. Cleaned and rebuilt carb, reset points and runs great now. Looks like new boot will be needed.

[ebinmaine 73,906]

6 minutes ago, sqrlgtr said:

Looks like new boot will be needed.

While you're in there, replace that shifter set screw that's known for breaking.

 

And speaking of brakes, you need a seal behind that drum.

 

[sqrlgtr 762]

1 minute ago, ebinmaine said:

While you're in there, replace that shifter set screw that's known for breaking.

 

And speaking of brakes, you need a seal behind that drum.

 

yeah I seen that. thanks for rubbing it in lol....

[ri702bill 9,779]

The shifter acts like a wick and rainwater runs down between the boot & shifter, into the Unidrive.

You need to flush the trans - Diesel fuel or kerosene works well. You probably need to do it twice. Search the Forum for past threads  - good info.

Lift the front axle about a foot off the ground to allow all the nasty fluid inside to drain.

[sqrlgtr 762]

9 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

The shifter acts like a wick and rainwater runs down between the boot & shifter, into the Unidrive.

You need to flush the trans - Diesel fuel or kerosene works well. You probably need to do it twice. Search the Forum for past threads  - good info.

Lift the front axle about a foot off the ground to allow all the nasty fluid inside to drain.

Yeah, I've got the front end in the air right now. May not make back to shop tonight so it will get a good drain tonight . 

[wallfish 18,507]

40 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

The shifter acts like a wick and rainwater runs down between the boot & shifter, into the Unidrive.

Mark the shifter where the top edge of the boot normally lives when installed. Then slide the boot up the shifter and lay a bead of grease right on that line. Slide the boot back down and will fill the seal part to the shifter with grease plus leave a bead of grease sealing the underside of the boot. 

Just kinda throwing this out there in the thread for info purposes

Edited September 26 by wallfish

[SylvanLakeWH 29,089]

 

Although I use silicone. Seals it up tight...

[ri702bill 9,779]

58 minutes ago, wallfish said:

plus leave a bead of grease sealing the underside of the boot

I do the same, with  one addition. I cut a piece of bicycle inner tube to fit tightly inside the upper section of the boot, the shifter hole is a tight fit too. And a generous wad of grease under this rubber part. No water in the Unidrive issues....

[sqrlgtr 762]

who was it that used to use motor medic motor flush to flush out there rearends? Im pretty sure it was a member here and would like to know what his/her procedure was in going about doing it? seems like they had a before and after pic also but can't find it using search funkcheeen button.

[953 nut 61,288]

1 hour ago, sqrlgtr said:

motor medic motor flush to flush out there   rearends       gettin' a bit personnel there but @Racinbob uses it in transaxles,  as for his rearend we ain't goin' there!     

 

[ri702bill 9,779]

1 hour ago, sqrlgtr said:

motor medic motor flush

That brings back less than fond memories as a young teenager. My friend's Dad had a side hustle buying, fixing amd flipping cars - two or three a year. Seems most needed the MMF treatment.... after we rodded the oil draiback holes with a speedometer cable -  that stuff has a viscosity like paint thinner! Maybe it is!! Anyway we used to argue just who did NOT get to undo the oil pan plug!! The warm oil  / solvent mix just flew out and made such a mess......

[ebinmaine 73,906]

2 hours ago, sqrlgtr said:

who was it that used to use motor medic motor flush to flush out there rearends? Im pretty sure it was a member here and would like to know what his/her procedure was in going about doing it? seems like they had a before and after pic also but can't find it using search funkcheeen button.

 

@Racinbob ? Maybe......?

[sqrlgtr 762]

57 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

That brings back less than fond memories as a young teenager. My friend's Dad had a side hustle buying, fixing amd flipping cars - two or three a year. Seems most needed the MMF treatment.... after we rodded the oil draiback holes with a speedometer cable -  that stuff has a viscosity like paint thinner! Maybe it is!! Anyway we used to argue just who did NOT get to undo the oil pan plug!! The warm oil  / solvent mix just flew out and made such a mess......

That first sentence had me worried for second after reading 953 nut post. Didn't know if I wanted read any further.. 

Edited Saturday at 12:45 AM by sqrlgtr

[Racinbob 12,117]

10 hours ago, sqrlgtr said:

who was it that used to use motor medic motor flush to flush out there rearends? Im pretty sure it was a member here and would like to know what his/her procedure was in going about doing it? seems like they had a before and after pic also but can't find it using search funkcheeen button.

 

That would be me. I don't remember how I chose it but I do know why. I absolutely hate everything there is about the diesel fuel smell. I even try to avoid pulling up to a gas pump that has a diesel nozzle because it likely will have been spilled on the pavement by the pump. Here's the latest 5060 transmission after flushing. 

 

 

I don't have any before pictures because I don't open them before flushing but I've had some pretty cruddy oil drained out. Every transmission I've used it on has looked like this. But again, I just don't know how bad they were before I started other than the looks of the oil.

 

Obviously I start by draining the old stuff out. I use a chain hoist to lift it and will have it pretty much vertical to make sure it's drained good on the front side of the center hump. I let it sit overnight or longer. In goes two quarts of Motor Medic. Because it's on the bench I use a drill to spin the transmission. A piece of tubing sized for the input shaft clamped on and whatever size socket for the drill end. Go through all the gears forward and back. Again it sits a while soaking with an occasional spinning. Then it's drain and strain back into the bottles waiting for the next one. 

 

 

One thing about bench spinning is that I can run all the gears in both direction. Does that matter? I have no clue. 

 

Edit..............I've only used this stuff in Wheel Horse transmissions. Any other use is at your discretion and I'm thinking DON'T POST PICTURES.  

 

 

 

 

Edited Saturday at 08:31 AM by Racinbob

[ri702bill 9,779]

This is my setup for at home flushing using a spare WH frame and an electric motor...

 

[sqrlgtr 762]

 @Racinbob Thats the pic I was thinking about. If local auto supply has some on hand, believe I will give it a try. Thinking maybe put on jackstands and letting transaxle run for a minute or two or make a lap around shop, using the whole range of gears while doing so.  I don't think that would harm any thing???

[ri702bill 9,779]

I decent flush takes about 20 minutes - maybe more. 

Side note - the shifter is just placed in, not retained. I pulled it out during the flush - what a waterfall of fluid going on in there!! Seems the differential gear really churns things up...

[Racinbob 12,117]

10 minutes ago, sqrlgtr said:

 @Racinbob Thats the pic I was thinking about. If local auto supply has some on hand, believe I will give it a try. Thinking maybe put on jackstands and letting transaxle run for a minute or two or make a lap around shop, using the whole range of gears while doing so.  I don't think that would harm any thing???

 

Walmart has it too. You won't hurt a thing running it around some. Just remember that there might be excessive leakage at the seals do to the watery thin flush in there. When I've flushed them while still on the tractor I raise the front quite a bit (probably 45°) with the chain hoist (don't get under it). The geometry of that center hump needs it. But just do the best you can. If a little bit is left it won't hurt a thing. A lot of these transmissions spend their life lubricated with water and sludge.

[Racinbob 12,117]

17 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

I decent flush takes about 20 minutes - maybe more. 

Side note - the shifter is just placed in, not retained. I pulled it out during the flush - what a waterfall of fluid going on in there!! Seems the differential gear really churns things up...

 

It's more because of all the other gears. The differential gear is probably about the slowest gear in there. Think tire rotation. 

[ebinmaine 73,906]

2 hours ago, Racinbob said:

I absolutely hate everything there is about the diesel fuel smell. 

 

The BBT very much agrees with you.

To her:

Gasoline is deodorant. Diesel is to be avoided. 

 

 

2 hours ago, Racinbob said:

Because it's on the bench I use a drill to spin the transmission. A piece of tubing sized for the input shaft clamped on and whatever size socket for the drill end. 

 

Is that just a piece of rubber or other flexible tubing? 

 

 

2 hours ago, Racinbob said:

Then it's drain and strain back into the bottles waiting for the next one

 

Didn't occur to me to reuse it. How do you strain it? 

 

 

2 hours ago, Racinbob said:

One thing about bench spinning is that I can run all the gears in both direction. Does that matter? I have no clue. 

 

I can see the logic that moving ALL available metal parts possible would help. Each gear ⚙️ set could potentially create a different flow pattern for the fluid and its spray. 

 

 

 

[sqrlgtr 762]

7 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

 

Walmart has it too. You won't hurt a thing running it around some. Just remember that there might be excessive leakage at the seals do to the watery thin flush in there. When I've flushed them while still on the tractor I raise the front quite a bit (probably 45°) with the chain hoist (don't get under it). The geometry of that center hump needs it. But just do the best you can. If a little bit is left it won't hurt a thing. A lot of these transmissions spend their life lubricated with water and sludge.

 

Yes, she's been nose high overnight, so should be drained pretty well and will do same after running medic through it. It was way over filled but guessing most was water. Might not leak around brake drum so bad after I get correct level of oil back in it .

[Racinbob 12,117]

10 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

The BBT very much agrees with you.

To her:

Gasoline is deodorant. Diesel is to be avoided. 

 

I'm not sure about deodorant but it's way better than diesel. Now, Hoppes #9 on the other hand...........aftershave.

 

Is that just a piece of rubber or other flexible tubing? 

 

That's a piece of 1/2" flexible nonmetallic tubing but any type would work. Some flex on such a short piece won't hurt. My daughter laughs at me: "Always something electrical"

 

Didn't occur to me to reuse it. How do you strain it? 

 

When I mix Plantskydd and Bobbex deer repellent it needs to be strained so I bought a bulk box of paint strainers on Ebay way cheaper than the 5 packs at Lowes. 

 

I can see the logic that moving ALL available metal parts possible would help. Each gear ⚙️ set could potentially create a different flow pattern for the fluid and its spray. 

 

Makes sense. I guess as long as they keep looking like they do afterwards I'll keep doing it. 

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 73,906]

@Racinbob

Hoppes.... agreed.  🙃

[sqrlgtr 762]

Pics of shifter and final drain of motor medic. Pleasantly surprised how good inside looked (from what I could see) looks great. Kinda worried after seeing how rough shifter was. Of course I had plenty of later model shifters but none that was as short as these. Also broke bolt/set screw that holds shifter in so that took a little while to sort out. Going to let drain awhile before getting back to fill with oli.

[ri702bill 9,779]

That's a mite scary! Pop goes the shifter. A true testament to what I said about it acting like a wick....

Edited Saturday at 07:43 PM by ri702bill