Battery Drain on C-161

[Mike'sHorseBarn 3,300]

I'm just thinking out loud here. I out a facet electric fuel pump on my C-161 and it was working great! Problem is that I run it a while and it will eventually kill the battery. I have it wired straight into a fused switch and then to the battery so no relay. I'm not sure if the K341 is equipped with a 10 or 15 amp alternator either. It has the smaller sized voltage regulator so I'm thinking it has the 10amp and may have to install a 15amp. 

 

I'm not working on this right away, just wanted to get a game plan together for when I get to it. 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,611]

Kohler powered C-161 or B&S Twin?

Sorry see it is a K341. It should have a 15 amp charging system.

[Mike'sHorseBarn 3,300]

4 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

Kohler powered C-161 or B&S Twin?

Sorry see it is a K341. It should have a 15 amp charging system.

 

ok then maybe i'll have to add in a relay to help with amp drain then.

[Handy Don 14,306]

7 minutes ago, Mike'sHorseBarn said:

 

ok then maybe i'll have to add in a relay to help with amp drain then.

I'm struggling with the concept that a relay will address battery drain. 

The Facet pumps with which I am familiar use around 1 amp--nowhere near enough to hurt the battery on an K341 that is running and charging. 

[Mike'sHorseBarn 3,300]

3 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

I'm struggling with the concept that a relay will address battery drain. 

The Facet pumps with which I am familiar use around 1 amp--nowhere near enough to hurt the battery on an K341 that is running and charging. 

 

I didn't think the pump used that much power either and my amp gauge shows it's charging. Could it possibly be a bad amp gauge?

[Handy Don 14,306]

19 minutes ago, Mike'sHorseBarn said:

 

I didn't think the pump used that much power either and my amp gauge shows it's charging. Could it possibly be a bad amp gauge?

Is the underlying problem that while in use your tractor’s battery is losing charge?

If yes, then I would not start with the pump or the ammeter when looking for the cause. Do you have a good digital or analog voltmeter and know how to use it? There are a number of basic checks on the (relatively) simple WH electrical system that will help you zero in. Let us know and we can start you along!

Getting the battery load-tested is the first thing I’d try. Take it to your nearest auto parts store or you regular auto service shop. 

 

Edited 15 hours ago by Handy Don

[Mike'sHorseBarn 3,300]

1 minute ago, Handy Don said:

Is the underlying problem that while in use your tractor’s battery is losing charge?

If yes, then I would not start with the pump or the ammeter when looking for the cause. Do you have a good digital or analysis voltmeter and know how to use it? There are a number of basic checks on the (relatively) simple WH electrical system that will help you zero in. Let us know and we can start you along!

Getting the battery load-tested is the first thing I’d try. Take it to your nearest auto parts store or you regular auto service shop. 

 

 

I do have a test meter and yes the underlying problem is that using the tractor eventually kills the battery.

[Ed Kennell 42,505]

The C-161 should run with out a fuel pump.    Try using it to start the tractor, then turn it off.

[Handy Don 14,306]

First steps after getting a battery load tested and fully charged. Measure the voltage. 

Have the wiring diagram for your tractor in hand. Annotate it with any mods you or a PO have made. This way, as you do checks, you can keep track of progress. 

 

Then, my first stop after putting the battery back in the tractor would be to measure the voltage across the battery terminals with the ignition off before the engine is running. Look for the same volts as before it was connected. If yes, skip this paragraph. If not, you likely have a wiring problem that is drawing down the battery even without the engine running--likely a short to ground. One possible source a failed ammeter. Check by first disconnecting the positive terminal from the battery and then removing the wires from BOTH terminals of the meter. Securely connect the two wires to each other and insulate them from the tractor. This removes the ammeter from the circuit. Re-test the unconnected battery and then reconnect it and retest. If the voltages are the same, the ammeter had a short. You can also use your Ohms setting on your DVOM to measure resistance between each ammeter terminal and ground. Low resistance indicate a short. 

 

So there is no battery drain when the switch is off. Start the tractor and raise the throttle to well above idle (it doesn’t have to be full.) After two or three minutes test voltage again across the battery terminals. If it is lower than 13.5 volts, then the battery is not being charged (and the ammeter should be showing discharge). So either the charging system isn’t doing its job or there is a hidden load that exceeds the charging systems capacity. 

 

What do you want to do next? Charging system or wiring?

 

 

Edited 14 hours ago by Handy Don

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,611]

One test you can do and is seldom mentioned.

Turn the ignition switch to the run position without the engine running and check the voltage across the battery posts.

Now move the red test lead to the DC+ terminal on the regulator. You should have the same voltage reading.

If not the same voltage reading the charge current has no path back to the battery.

Find out why.

 

[ri702bill 9,697]

Sometimes, the ignition switch itself internally can be the source of a draw with the key off...

[953 nut 61,074]

@gwest_ca beat me to it. Probably a bad connection or open wire between the battery and voltage regulator. Also, with the battery connected at the negative terminal, ignition key OFF and positive lead disconnected use the meter or a test light between the battery + and  the cable to see if there is voltage shown. If no voltage is indicated the there isn't a drain with the key off. 

If there is battery voltage to the B+ terminal of the regulator then start the engine and see if you have 36 +/- AC voltage between the outer two terminals of the regulator.

   If it were mine I would connect the fuel pump to the wire feeding the hour meter, it is fuse protected and turns off when the ignition is off, no other switch needed.    I would also ditch the amp meter in favor of a volt meter but that is just my preference.

[squonk 44,164]

Also check regulator ground.