Dan 312-8 203 #1 Posted Saturday at 02:56 PM So, I am finally getting around to tinkering with my new to me RJ to try to get it started. I restored the gas tank as it was nasty inside with years and years old gas. I removed the glass sight bowl/fuel shut off to clean it, there is a thin rubber gasket/screen between the glass bowl and metal portion, which has now developed a very slight drip when fuel supply valve is opened. Q - can anyone direct me to where I can purchase a new rubber gasket? Also, the hex on the crankshaft where the recoil start engages is beginning to round off the corners of the hex. It appears that the hex is threaded on to the crank. Can anyone confirm that? Would be nice to thread it off and thread a new one on if such a thing exists. I realize the engine is circa 1959 and finding new OEM would be near impossible, but would consider an aftermarket adapter. Another thought is to weld up the rounded off corners and hand file back to spec. I have a tig welder and can ground behind the damaged area using a C clamp. I welcome any knowledge, advice, and sources that may be available for one or both items. Thanks all! Dan 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ACman 7,666 #2 Posted Saturday at 03:51 PM (edited) Send a pm to @Jake Kuhn for the parts or A -Z tractor http://a-ztractor.com/ and Steiner Tractor Parts (Steiner will have the gasket with some measurements or brand) https://www.steinertractor.com/search/go?w=fuel sediment bowl gasket&__EVENTTARGET=&__EVENTARGUMENT=&__VIEWSTATE=WaknTf%2FUmy0mV3cQdbZ77X8%2Fhkd6nKmgOT4tLozk3IsQyZHVXJxGV2Ie3S3ZI96qm1mbkAW2c9OP3gIN%2BRdzq0glxxsH3jRCgBzTfw%3D%3D&__VIEWSTATEGENERATOR=CA0B0334&__VIEWSTATEENCRYPTED=&__EVENTVALIDATION=WYKWYd12tbKn%2BrMhckUieiQBcI9Nc4xQRWcVDcNNeWFMpHjPDXbIrgrtKA7YXRPbpCEwn1DI35vWawQFjAcw0oSf9Q%2Bh2TbBA4ehJsQLAtyItC7n6TjQkiVmOppog%2FwZjpTg5lU7MPnq7K6XKCf7griCodeCBL9bWrZTZcQaGpzv3Jw7&dnn%24pageType=category&dnn%24userType=Unknown&dnn%24customerId=-1&tealiumEnv=prod&ts=custom&b_c26e515d66a5d0527e02216b6_1140b8211c=&ScrollTop=16&__dnnVariable=`{`__scdoff`%3A`1`%2C`sf_siteRoot`%3A`%2F`%2C`sf_tabId`%3A`63`}&__RequestVerificationToken=7KRom-CN-8mQfvV6bhidF5qaI-lN8JjVPx3Fn0v_Ts2vh_8QpozU4XEZ4w752VE4hpeL8A2 Edited Saturday at 03:59 PM by ACman 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 44,164 #3 Posted Saturday at 06:44 PM You can get fuel strainer parts at Napa, Tractor Supply ,Rural King Ect. Those sediment bowls are a French word for " fuel leak" 2 9 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ML3 1,858 #4 Posted Saturday at 06:55 PM I used an oring on my 702 fuel bowl that I had in my supply cabinet & it worked. Or you could just eliminate it & use a fuel shut off that threads into tank along with an inline fuel filter. Guess it depends how original you want it to be?? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan 312-8 203 #5 Posted Saturday at 06:58 PM 12 minutes ago, squonk said: Those sediment bowls are a French word for " fuel leak" I’m learning that… Thanks for the guidance parts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan 312-8 203 #6 Posted Saturday at 07:00 PM 3 minutes ago, ML3 said: I used an oring on my 702 fuel bowl that I had in my supply cabinet & it worked. Or you could just eliminate it & use a fuel shut off that threads into tank along with an inline fuel filter. Guess it depends how original you want it to be?? I thought of a oring. I did add an inline fuel filter. So you might have something there. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,306 #7 Posted Saturday at 07:08 PM I kinda liked the sediment bowl, even though I dropped and had to replace the glass bowl. I made a new gasket out of rubberized cork gasket (i.e. fuel proof) mat from the jungle site and it’s working fine. Also, be very cautious about teflon tape and fuel systems--generally I avoid it if at all possible. Where unavoidable, I am stingy and make very sure it is only on “captive” threads and not extending out into the fuel stream. Tiny bits of teflon are unwelcome in the downstream components. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,611 #8 Posted Saturday at 08:51 PM Any I have had apart had a gasket each side of the screen. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 18,465 #9 Posted Saturday at 09:24 PM (edited) Yes that hex nut threads onto the crank to hold the flywheel plus part of the starter. You can remove it Yes you can probably weld the hex nut corners. The weld will be hardened too. Nothing to loose if it doesn't work @Lane Ranger has a thread about how he is going to make a few. Gaskets can be made and replace the little O rings on the valve too New sediment bowls can be purchased but they're about $30 now https://www.ebay.com/itm/167688007504?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&loc_physical_ms=51385&customid=d34fabe18c551376645fc32f727a3112&gclid=d34fabe18c551376645fc32f727a3112 Sediment bowl is also French for "separating water out" too. Yes they can be finickie with leaking after 50 years but changing the gasket and / or O rings solve that. Edited Saturday at 09:25 PM by wallfish 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan 312-8 203 #10 Posted Saturday at 11:12 PM 4 hours ago, Handy Don said: Also, be very cautious about teflon tape and fuel systems--generally I avoid it if at all possible. Where unavoidable, I am stingy and make very sure it is only on “captive” threads and not extending out into the fuel stream. Tiny bits of teflon are unwelcome in the downstream components. Absolutely, I stayed about 3/16” shy of the end of the NPT fitting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan 312-8 203 #11 Posted Saturday at 11:15 PM (edited) 14 hours ago, wallfish said: Yes that hex nut threads onto the crank to hold the flywheel plus part of the starter. You can remove it Yes you can probably weld the hex nut corners. The weld will be hardened too. Nothing to loose if it doesn't work @Lane Ranger has a thread about how he is going to make a few. Gaskets can be made and replace the little O rings on the valve too New sediment bowls can be purchased but they're about $30 now https://www.ebay.com/itm/167688007504?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&loc_physical_ms=51385&customid=d34fabe18c551376645fc32f727a3112&gclid=d34fabe18c551376645fc32f727a3112 Sediment bowl is also French for "separating water out" too. Yes they can be finickie with leaking after 50 years but changing the gasket and / or O rings solve that. Thanks for the insight @wallfish! Edited Sunday at 11:51 AM by Dan 312-8 typo 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 18,465 #12 Posted Saturday at 11:52 PM 34 minutes ago, Dan 312-8 said: That’s for the insight @wallfish! It's been 20 years since I've had a Schnake recoil but is it possible to just flip that hex nut around and start denting the other end? 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,306 #13 Posted Sunday at 12:43 AM 3 hours ago, wallfish said: Gaskets can be made and replace the little O rings on the valve too New sediment bowls can be purchased but they're about $30 now https://www.ebay.com/itm/167688007504 Sediment bowl is also French for "separating water out" too. Yes they can be finickie with leaking after 50 years but changing the gasket and / or O rings solve that. A bit less, if they are still in stock: https://isavetractors.com/glass-sediment-bowl-fuel-filter/ I did replace the fuel shutoff O-ring with one I scavenged from an old valve in the parts bin. I like being able snug up the compression nut to prevent leakage as the ring slowly wears. I’m figuring if it lasts only 25 years it’ll outlive me! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 18,465 #14 Posted Sunday at 01:42 AM 53 minutes ago, Handy Don said: A bit less, if they are still in stock: Used to get'm for about $10 less than 5 years ago. I like to use them on the older stuff and round hoods that came with them because they just look "old School" It's surprising what you see in them and I still use a regular fuel filter afterwards. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 14,997 #15 Posted Sunday at 04:24 AM 13 hours ago, Dan 312-8 said: Would be nice to thread it off and thread a new one on if such a thing exists. Take it off, and flip it around and put it back. It looks to be threaded all the way through. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 14,997 #16 Posted Sunday at 04:27 AM 4 hours ago, wallfish said: is it possible to just flip that hex nut around and start denting the other end? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,949 #17 Posted Sunday at 11:18 AM 10 hours ago, Handy Don said: A bit less, if they are still in stock: https://isavetractors.com/glass-sediment-bowl-fuel-filter/ I save tractors went belly up. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan 312-8 203 #18 Posted Sunday at 11:53 AM 7 hours ago, kpinnc said: Take it off, and flip it around and put it back. It looks to be threaded all the way through. I wish I could, it's smaller on the engine side. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan 312-8 203 #19 Posted Sunday at 11:54 AM 7 hours ago, kpinnc said: Take it off, and flip it around and put it back. It looks to be threaded all the way through. I wish I could, it's smaller on the engine side. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 52,315 #20 Posted Sunday at 01:30 PM Welding idea then. 18 hours ago, squonk said: French word for " fuel leak" I don't what you got against original Squonky ... You know Achto calls them "sentimental bowls" ... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 44,164 #21 Posted Sunday at 02:41 PM I sold dozens and dozens of sediment bowl gaskets thru the years. They leaked if the nut was too loose, they leaked if they were overtightened and ruined the gasket or cracked the glass. And they don't filter worth a hill of beans! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,544 #22 Posted 21 hours ago On 9/20/2025 at 7:52 PM, wallfish said: It's been 20 years since I've had a Schnake recoil but is it possible to just flip that hex nut around and start denting the other end? No John flipping won't work on the original Schanke Hex nuts as the hole on the other end is bigger than 7/8 x 20 fine thread for the crank threads. i am having some Kohler 1 1/2 inch hex nuts made now. I am hoping the machinist can make the new ones so they can have the ability to reverse the hex nuts as. These have to be case hardened after the hex nuts are threaded. So probably a few more weeks before they will be available. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 11,544 #23 Posted 21 hours ago When I buy anew to me RJ I change the sediment bowl with a new one and/ or just remove and use a shut off valve in the fuel line. on my latest RJ I decided to make a mesh screen on top of the 3/8 not threaded pipe link between gas tank and sediment bowl. I used JB Weld two part tank compound to fix the screen in the 3/8 brass not link. My tank is pretty clean but I think based upon past experience that a screen will help keep fuel line and carb clean. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 18,465 #24 Posted 13 hours ago Is it possible to shim that nut out at the flywheel side (Washers) so the pawls start grabbing fresh meat on the hex nut? Is there enough crank thread, maybe ? Maybe shave some of the outside end off if it hits the starter? Just kinda think'n out loud for a temp solution. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites