barn find patina look

[terc 24]

Hello All   I recently picked up a barn find commando 8. I'm still trying to decide what I want to do with this tractor, Since the body parts have lost most of the paint color, I need to get started with the 8hp Kohler engine, that may a deciding factor as to what I do with tractor There are no rust holes only the sheet metal has a lot of surface rust. So what do you guys say about this tractor.

[WHX?? 52,407]

It's got good bones. 

[ebinmaine 73,892]

S/G engine with stirrups on a Commando??

Must be a very early one...

 

I'll bet there's more red paint under there than one might think.  

[terc 24]

ebinmaine - I guess the big question is how or what do i use to find out how much paint is under that current patina. I have always accustomed to using a wire brush then spraying with a rusty metal primer. If its not a lot of work I would like to save whatever is there, just have never done that process

 

[WHGuy413 2,796]

27 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

S/G engine with stirrups on a Commando??

Must be a very early one...

 

I'll bet there's more red paint under there than one might think.  

@WheelHorse_Kid has a Commando 8 with s/g and stirrup foot rests. 
 

17 minutes ago, terc said:

ebinmaine - I guess the big question is how or what do i use to find out how much paint is under that current patina. I have always accustomed to using a wire brush then spraying with a rusty metal primer. If its not a lot of work I would like to save whatever is there, just have never done that process

 

I would suggest a deep degrease and a gentle pressure washing first. Some guys have had success with a light wet sanding. I haven’t tried it on anything yet. 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,622]

 

[Lee1977 7,315]

Has anybody tried Scotch-brite pads, they come in different roughness  and are a little gentler then sandpaper. I have used them on rusted tools, never tried them on a rusted tractor.

[Pullstart 67,527]

You’d be blown away at how much paint is still under all that rust!  
 

600 grit wet/dry paper and some dish soapy water.  

 

Easy gentle strokes forward and backward.

 

Keep it wet.  

 

Avoid the radiuses too much, they will wear faster.

 

Go slow and check your results occasionally.

 

Here is an example, this one was about as rusty as well.  We also ran a little buffing compound across it at the 2018 Big Show too.

Edited September 17 by Pullstart

[squonk 44,261]

Smooth it down with scotch pads then wipe or brush this on it. Available at Lowes.

 

 

 

[953 nut 61,267]

I have used steel wool, 400 wet/dry sandpaper on a flexible sanding block, and WD-40 to bring back the red that is hidden under the rust.  Regardless of the type of abrasive (scotch-brite, wet dry paper, steel wool) use a random pattern and light downforce when you work large areas like the hood and fender pan. If you go diagonally (left front to right rear alternating to right front to left rear) your strokes will less noticeable. 

[peter lena 9,373]

@terc  never used anything to remove long acquired  patina , have always given it the  penetrating oil  soak down . also mineral oil . time and coverage , also enhances this , heat / sun  or  dry shop is perfect spot  , for  existing  paint  / patina  look . biggest mistake is rushing this , you are looking at neglect . think the chalky state is  best for saving .  done a lot of this , left areas around , recovered  spots as reference ,  emphasis is  phases ,try spots , expect stages , not  a  fresh paint . another thing , is regular  lubrication rub downs , clean cloth , mineral oil , pay attention to  effect as you go , pete 

 

[rmaynard 16,480]

  I know that I'm going to get a lot of pushback on this, but here goes. 

 

Patina:

A: Usually a green film formed naturally on copper and bronze by long exposure or artificially (as by acids) and often valued aesthetically for its color

B: A surface appearance of wood  grown beautiful by the touching of humans leaving oils that get darker and richer over time. 

 

Rust:

The reddish brittle coating formed on iron/steel especially when chemically attacked by moist air and composed essentially of hydrated ferric oxide. 

 

Nice find. I love my Commando 8. But Patina? Nope, that's rust. No matter what you put on it, rust will continue to slowly eat away at the metal. 

[rjg854 12,402]

13 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

S/G engine with stirrups on a Commando??

Must be a very early one...

both of my Commandos are like that

[WHGuy413 2,796]

4 hours ago, Pullstart said:

You’d be blown away at how much paint is still under all that rust!  
 

600 grit wet/dry paper and some dish soapy water.  

 

Easy gentle strokes forward and backward.

 

Keep it wet.  

 

Avoid the radiuses too much, they will wear faster.

 

Go slow and check your results occasionally.

 

Here is an example, this one was about as rusty as well.  We also ran a little buffing compound across it at the 2018 Big Show too.

I remember that tractor well! After you bought it it looked like a whole new rig.

[ebinmaine 73,892]

2 hours ago, rjg854 said:

both of my Commandos are like that

 

Very interesting.

 

We've had a Raider or two and a Charger go through our herd in the past but never seen a Commando here. I never knew the early ones were stirrup type. Always thought they were the first generation of Side Step Horses.

[rjg854 12,402]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Very interesting.

 

We've had a Raider or two and a Charger go through our herd in the past but never seen a Commando here. I never knew the early ones were stirrup type. Always thought they were the first generation of Side Step Horses.

Basically the same as a 856

[ebinmaine 73,892]

1 minute ago, rjg854 said:

Basically the same as a 856

 

Is a Commando  Short frame or long frame? 

[squonk 44,261]

25 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Is a Commando  Short frame or long frame? 

Shorty

[rjg854 12,402]

51 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Is a Commando  Short frame or long frame? 

[c-series don 10,316]

Here’s my Commando, with the wrong hood decals! 

[Retired Wrencher 5,971]

On 9/16/2025 at 8:48 PM, terc said:

ebinmaine - I guess the big question is how or what do i use to find out how much paint is under that current patina. I have always accustomed to using a wire brush then spraying with a rusty metal primer. If its not a lot of work I would like to save whatever is there, just have never done that process

 

Terc:  I would just clean everything with some gas make sure there’s no oil or grease anywhere one part at a time. And I always choose Marvel mystery oil with a rag and wipe all metal parts down. wipe off excess. This bring back the patina that is there. There are other methods, but I find this much easier. Just take your time with it and you’ll be happy. This is how mine came out.

[squonk 44,261]

WD 40 or Mystery oil can stay sticky and attract dirt. Penetrol dries and it's as easy to put on as the others. I did these Suburban fenders a year ago and they still shine.

 

 

 

[SylvanLakeWH 29,089]

[WHX?? 52,407]

On 9/17/2025 at 8:51 AM, rmaynard said:

No matter what you put on it, rust will continue to slowly eat away at the metal. 

I agree with everything Bob but that statement. If you take away the oxygen the rust will stop. Say by coating with grease or oil or even WD-40. We have this discussion every year at plow day about our shares & lots of guys just use WD and it seems to work. 

 

Funny no one has mentioned boiled linseed oil. Now I have only used it one or twice but it seems to work. It dries and protects put it does attract dust which usually washes off in mild soap and water. It leaves a dull patina which I prefer. I believe patinas shouldn't be shiny unless a custom. 

It probably should be reapplied every so often. 

This 400 was done with it. 

 

On 9/17/2025 at 4:46 PM, c-series don said:

with the wrong hood decals! 

There is no such thing as wrong decals Don  .. unless they say JD ... 

 

Nice tractors this thread fellas ... 

[squonk 44,261]

Another pic of the fender done with Penetrol. Why use something that attracts dirt?