Raider 9 Lug Bolts.

[Racinbob 12,045]

I'm tinkering with a 68 Raider 9 sorting out some things. Why the heck did they call these Raider 9's when they have a 10hp engine? One of the wheel lugs on the right side wants to put up a fight. The best I can tell is that it's not a lug bolt but a regular bolt that's been buried into the steel wheel and is mangled beyond any socket getting a grip. 

 

 

The other 9 came off easily and to my bewilderment the hubs came off without a fight. 

 

 

I decided to remove the hub with the wheel attached so I could get it to a better working height. Again, it came off easily using 4 of the five bolts on the puller.

 

 

I'm thinking I have a couple of options here. Drill the stuck bolt from the backside or weld another nut on top of the mangled head. What would you guys do?

 

 

[ebinmaine 73,674]

3 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

weld another nut on top of the mangled head

IMHO the better option 

[rmaynard 16,452]

Just remember that whatever caused the bolt to seize is still there. Welding a nut on is a good idea IF you are a welder.  Lots of PB Blaster and heat should break the bond. However, if you don't weld, you need another way. Since the bolt head is destroyed, and you have the wheel and hub off the tractor, drill the bolt from the back side. Start small and get increasingly larger until most of the bolt is gone. At some point the bolt will come out. Chase the threads with a 7/16-20 tap.

[squonk 44,152]

Weld on another nut. Then heat the hub again but not red hot because it's cast. Then quench it good, Then hit it with an impact gun

[953 nut 61,052]

8 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

drill the bolt from the back side. Start small and get increasingly larger until most of the bolt is gone. At some point the bolt will come out. Chase the threads with a 7/16-20 tap.

47 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

Why the heck did they call these Raider 9's when they have a 10hp engine?

Real Raider 10s have a Kohler so you couldn't call a Tecumseh powered Raider a 10    perhaps the judges were being generous to give it a 9     

[oldlineman 1,572]

I am not a " welder " but I can weld, learned on the farm when I was growing up. Having said that I have always had good results when welding nuts in this situation. You have the wheel off and can lay it down ,perfect position for welding. Clean the head of the bolt well and use a little more heat than usual, and if it breaks off try again. If you have a welder, preferably a MIG set up, a stick welder will work, ( I tend to do better with the MIG) Eyesight is becoming more of a problem I later years,I would go for it.You can always drill it if welding doesn't work.   Bob

Edited August 26 by oldlineman

[rmaynard 16,452]

22 minutes ago, oldlineman said:

I am not a " welder " 

 

That describes me. I borrowed a friends MIG welder and did more damage than good. 

[Ed Kennell 42,483]

1 hour ago, Racinbob said:

weld another nut on top of the mangled head.

Yep, use a big nut that the mangled head fits inside.  

[Racinbob 12,045]

I'm thinking the big nut is the hot ticket. I'll give it all the heat my welder is capable of. 130A 

[oldlineman 1,572]

I have a hobart 140 MIG with gas, does everything that I need to do.

[kpinnc 14,988]

1 hour ago, oldlineman said:

I have a hobart 140 MIG with gas, does everything that I need to do.

 

I have the same welder but run with flux core. Nice little welder!

[Racinbob 12,045]

I've got a little Arccaptain 130. It will do flux core and arc. Also tig if I add the equipment. It's a fairly recent purchase and seems well suited for me. I did weld quite a bit in the 'old' days and it was all with a Lincoln 225 AC.

Edited August 26 by Racinbob

[953 nut 61,052]

8 hours ago, Racinbob said:

I'm thinking the big nut is the hot ticket. I'll give it all the heat my welder is capable of. 130A 

If that doesn't work for you there is still Bib's drill it out option.