Tim Ziethen 4 #1 Posted yesterday at 04:33 AM I have a 1116k801 c-165 tractor that worked great until yesterday. Blowing the 15amp fuse behind the dash that is connected to the battery and amp meter. Happened three times but now blows fuse without key in or tractor running. I must have a short to ground and it is not the amp meter. The wires go to the stator and seat sensor. I pulled the seat sensor and it was not touching anything. How do I check the stator for resistance and grounds - what should the readings be? It is starting to look like the stator is directly grounded. Put a amp meter inline and the short is there with the tractor off and the key out. Thoughts - Did not what to pull the flywheel without more troubleshooting - the circuit goes through the rectifer which I also unbolted but wanted to be careful with the stator. Thanks Tim 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 9,445 #2 Posted yesterday at 07:25 AM Maybe one of the wires is chafed - look at the wire routing near the flywheel..... if so, that may be a simple fix. Or a new stator..... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,843 #3 Posted yesterday at 10:42 AM Disconnect the 2 wires from the stator at the rectifier. Reconnect the battery and plug in a fuse. If the fuse doesn't blow, you now know it's either one of the stator wires chafed or the stator itself. The most likely place for the wire to be chafed is where it passes from behind the bearing plate to the stator itself. Which means you're going to be pulling the flywheel. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 60,069 #4 Posted yesterday at 11:17 AM 6 hours ago, Tim Ziethen said: The wires go to the stator and seat sensor. I pulled the seat sensor and it was not touching anything. 6 hours ago, Tim Ziethen said: Blowing the 15amp fuse behind the dash that is connected to the battery and amp meter. That should be a 25 Amp Fuse When checking for a grounded wire or component use a 12 Volt test light in place of the fuse. If the light is on brightly the short is present, when the short is removed the light will go out. No need of wasting fuses and the change in the light will get your attention faster than a meter. Have you inspected the wire to the seat switch? Frequently an electrical short will be a matter of chafed insulation or a pinched wire rather than a component. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tim Ziethen 4 #5 Posted yesterday at 02:22 PM What should the stator resistance be - is this a valid test? Also assume it should be infinity to ground? Also - is there a way to test the rectifying with a VOM? Please confirm if anyone knows this - thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,489 #6 Posted yesterday at 02:55 PM For 15 amp stator 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,843 #7 Posted yesterday at 06:47 PM This test in red is only valid with the leads hanging free. A chafed lead can be repaired instead of replacing the stator 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
