1975 C160 Auto

[Krice58 5]

I inherited a ‘75 C160 from my grandfather who purchased it used in the late 70s and used it until the mid 2000s before he passed in 2010. It sat in his shed until a few years ago (2018-19ish) and I did manage to get it running but it seemed to have transmission issues. The hydraulic lift did work for a while but eventually the tractor would bog down and move very slowly even at full throttle. Life happened (marriage, a kid) and I haven’t touched it for a few years. But it pains me to see it sitting in the shed, wasting away. The electrical system was pretty butchered and the starter was wired to a push button, and the plastic fuel tank was broken, so I rigged a small tank to get it running. I’d like to turn it into a little plow tractor just for my driveway, as I have a plow for it already that was also left behind by my grandfather and a 38” deck that’s in decent shape. Is it worth the trouble to invest a little in? I’m not trying to make money on it, as I don’t really want to sell it, I just want to know if it’s too far gone (if the transmission is truly shot) or if I can get it operating for a few hundred bucks. First thing I’m looking for is a fuel tank, to at least try to fire it up again, but I can’t seem to find one anywhere. Toro #103487 or it says superseded to #104065. Any input would be greatly appreciated. 
 

[Ed Kennell 42,021]

to the       One of our vendors can help with used parts.   https://www.a-ztractor.com/index.php

[parsonsponyz 203]

It is definitely worth fixing.

[c-series don 10,034]

Check and see if the tow/haul valve under the fender pan is in the correct position. When was the last time the transmission fluid and filter was changed? 

[Krice58 5]

5 minutes ago, c-series don said:

Check and see if the tow/haul valve under the fender pan is in the correct position. When was the last time the transmission fluid and filter was changed? 

I’ll have to check the valve. No idea when the fluid and filter were changed last, that would be a place to start. If I’m not mistaken, that just takes motor oil correct? 

[oliver2-44 10,733]

 

That a very desirable tractor

Get a free copy of the manual in the Manuals section. Remove the plate in front of/ below the seat where the transmission linkage and cam is. This is usually packed with grass crud. Clean this out and follow the Manuel to do some maintenanon that linkage. 

[Dan 312-8 110]

Welcome to Red Square! You have a very desirable model there and definitely worth fixing, your grandfather will be smiling down on you!

[Ed Kennell 42,021]

8 hours ago, Krice58 said:

. If I’m not mistaken, that just takes motor oil correct? 

It could be motor oil(amber) or ATF(pink).  Do not mix the two.

[953 nut 60,068]

12 hours ago, Krice58 said:

But it pains me to see it sitting in the shed, wasting away.

Love to see a family member show some love to an abandoned  We don't want your grandfather's Wheel Horse to sit in a shed wasting away either.

10 W 30 motor oil is probably what is in the transmission, pull the dip stich and lay it on a clean shop towel, if the oil is clear/amber it is motor oil, if it is pink it is ATF. The best filter is a NAPA 1410 or WIX 51410 and @squonk, one of out members here, has had good results using 10 W 40 in a not-so-strong Sundstrand transmission.

The link below will take you to all the manuals and bulletins we have regarding your C-160. 

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=1-0481&quick=1&type=downloads_file

[SylvanLakeWH 28,439]

[rjg854 12,205]

  well worth fixing it up, good luck with this project

[squonk 43,843]

Around model year 73 was when they switched from ATF to motor oil. Best to check the color to make sure someone hasn't changed things. I use Mobil 1 10W 40 in my 76 C-160

[clueless 3,248]

2 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

It could be motor oil(amber) or ATF(pink).  Do not mix the two.

[Krice58 5]

Found this one still sealed in shed. Appears to be correct from quick google search. 

Edited Saturday at 05:28 PM by Krice58

[Horsin'round 251]

Welcome!

 

The C-160 is a beast! IMHO, well worth the effort to rehab.  Once you have it sorted,  it will become your go to choice for most jobs. You will find parts are readily available as there is a serious passion for these models among the various groups. 

 

The folks on Red Square are incredibly knowledgeable and helpful. If the information you seek is not in the archives,  just ask,  you will get guidance. 

 

 

[oliver2-44 10,733]

1 hour ago, Krice58 said:

 

yep, that is a correct filter!

[Krice58 5]

I do have some questions as far as the wiring. It’s pretty butchered so I’m just going to start at the key switch and start replacing wire. Looking at a diagram and the tractor itself I see at least 1 inline glass fuse and several older style single pin connectors. My question is that could I just as easily replace the glass fuses with a more modern inline ato or mini fuse and as far as the connectors can I just use male and female spade connectors? I read that it’s anywhere from 14-16ga wire, so I’ll probably use the 14 for everything except the battery cables and maybe solenoid and starter wires. Wiring is one of my least favorite things to do but I think at this point it would be easier to replace than splice together what is left. 

[pfrederi 18,685]

The older WHs had simple wiring.  You are better off redoing it completely  I use 14 g for everything  6ga for battery and starter  I use the modern fuse and holders

Edited Saturday at 07:49 PM by pfrederi

[953 nut 60,068]

6 hours ago, Krice58 said:

My question is that could I just as easily replace the glass fuses with a more modern inline ato or mini fuse and as far as the connectors can I just use male and female spade connectors?

Newer heavy duty fuse holders with mini fuses is the way to go. For connectors it is best to use the Packard 56 series connectors. They can be found in many GOOD auto supply stores or on line. These are the same as Wheel Horse used in the factory and many auto manufacturers use them.    The regular spade connectors sold at hardware stores will not stand up to the vibrations of a garden tractor. I have had good dealings with Del City, https://www.delcity.net/store/Packard-56-Series-Electrical-Connectors/p_9108?srsltid=AfmBOooij_TQj9ju2Vv_bJBdKq_z2WEtUlzYrJxoDAJRr1YTbC7Ghm4U

I would recommend doing away with the Amp Meter and replacing it with a Volt Meter.

[Krice58 5]

Started tearing into it. Got all the old wiring out except for the two wires going to the stator, not quite sure how to get to those. Transmission is filled with motor oil, it is clean but low so that may have been part of my problem. Took a 22nf battery out of it and debating whether to stick with that or just put one of the smaller u1 batteries. 

[rjg854 12,205]

I'd say it would depend on what climate your in and what seasons you're planning on using it. After all it is a 16 hp

[pfrederi 18,685]

Do not mess with the  two stator wires just check for continuity/ground per the manual  3a

 

 

 

 

Edited Sunday at 10:10 PM by pfrederi

[Krice58 5]

1 hour ago, rjg854 said:

I'd say it would depend on what climate your in and what seasons you're planning on using it. After all it is a 16 hp

I’m in Ohio. We do get some cold weather. Probably be better off with the 22nf. 

[Krice58 5]

Any suggestions for transmission oil? Just any run of the mill 10w30 or 10w40? Conventional? Synthetic? The manual I read said the entire transmission holds 6 quarts including the hydro. I’m sure not all of it will come out, I’m going to use my vacuum pump to get out as much as I can from the dipstick tube and then I’ll open the drain plug. 

[oliver2-44 10,733]

Conventional or synthetic oil will work. 
I use Mobil One Synthetic 10w40 in my C160. Why?  While the Hydro works good, after 50 years it deserves a little extra!