Rusty Mower decks

[terc 5]

I am sure this has been discussed before, however I was not able to find any info. So what are the recommendations on how to prepare a badly rusted mower deck and which rust reformer to use before priming and then painting. I was able to repair those sections that were totally rusted thru with new metal. 

[JoeM 8,347]

 

[Ed Kennell 42,021]

I never paint mine.   If I have to mow in wet grass, I hose wash under the deck.  Otherwise I remove the deck after mowing season and clean and wire brush the deck, then soak it with used motor oil and let it dry in the sun for several days before putting it in storage for the winter.

Before storage, the blades are removed , sharpened, and balanced.  The spindle bearings are greased.  The belt guards and idler pully and slide bar is removed and this area is cleaned and lubricated.

[Brockport Bill 1,951]

I have found if deck i acquired has lots of pitting then having it professionally sand blasted rather than my own labor of wire brush and grinder pad that the sandblasting is worth the expense...it really gets into the rust pits....huge advantage having every bit of corrosion gone.....plus the paint job looks much better if that's important to you.

[oliver2-44 10,733]

15 minutes ago, Brockport Bill said:

I have found if deck i acquired has lots of pitting then having it professionally sand blasted rather than my own labor of wire brush and grinder pad that the sandblasting is worth the expense...it really gets into the rust pits....huge advantage having every bit of corrosion gone.....plus the paint job looks much better if that's important to you.

[ri702bill 9,444]

I use a pneumatic needle scaler for such work. It does a fine job.

[Brockport Bill 1,951]

7 hours ago, ri702bill said:

I use a pneumatic needle scaler for such work. It does a fine job.

agree, the scaler often more effective for pitted areas..... I often use the scaler as well -- more effective often than the 90 degree grinder or the wire brush --- I find the scaler tool especially helpful for hard to reach areas when doing rims - especially the deep rear rims the scaler gets into areas like creases the other tools or my hands can't easily get into etc -

[Brockport Bill 1,951]

I have long appreciated the info, insights and advice here on RSQ as I have have become more vested in the herd since my original 312-8 we bought in 1989 -- one of the topics always of interest were the comments about saving the mower decks and especially the rust issue and the various strategies -- eg: Pete's advocacy of the oil and sun baking etc -- so a few weeks ago in June i removed my deck for it's typical routine mid summer cleaning -- pressure wash and oiling - - its now been a few weeks, so I thought i would share what the bottom of the deck looks like after what i am guessing was about 4 or 5 cuts -- but in full disclosure, I don't mow my lawn when its wet  - i always use top throttle and and i don't wait for it to get 5 inches tall -- but as you can see the deck is still virtually bare of any stuck on accumulated grass debris and clippings  -- so I guess its more proof of the value of oiling and other strategies to "SAVE THE DECKS "

here are photos from cleanig and oil then after mutiple cuts

[peter lena 9,279]

@Brockport Bill thanks for the  oiling  results , everyone's  set up is different , as usual  I regularly experiment  with any change or idea , my decks are  all R/D  so I removed any related baffling  long ago , as an experimental  enhancement , also  use a  mirror  , for quick under deck , check outs . also favor a  more frequent cut  for ,less grass  tracking . been  many years now on decks , and the black oil stain is  still very solid , think the combination  of initial oil soak / and sun baking  really set things in place , rarely have to touch up anything . my regular  experiments  to a repetitive issue , has been working for me , realise we all have  a different set up and tractor , but  a  constant issue , will  quickly  get me  into the  , ELIMINATION  MINDSET  , also more often than not , its not visible , just a re route , set up , paint it red / black . love a 5/16  steel brake  line , for a lot of fuel hose , break down elimination , that also hides in plane site . or should I say " you cant do that ?   save the decks , pete       

[lynnmor 7,823]

Three weeks in a row with a complete cleaning and oiling.  I call BS on the effectiveness of oiling to prevent buildup.  That's about 6 gallons of crud each time.

 

Edited Sunday at 02:08 PM by lynnmor

[peter lena 9,279]

@lynnmor  have none of that in / on my decks , would not have suggested it  if it was a repetitive issue , only have  rear discharge decks , with baffles removed . highest  cutting setting , retention of  any grass is always  next to nothing  . will be cutting later today . pete

[Brockport Bill 1,951]

1 hour ago, lynnmor said:

Three weeks in a row with a complete cleaning and oiling.  I call BS on the effectiveness of oiling to prevent buildup.  That's about 6 gallons of crud each time.

 

that accumulation of grass looks like it has a lot more moisture in it than my grass - are you mowing damp grass? -- or your grass must be lots healthier than mine with more mositure content? It's interesting photo because i never get that accumulation.

[Brockport Bill 1,951]

as an added fyi -- i use spray on gear oil and then wipe it in and spread it with a rag to cover entire deck underneath - I don't use the used old oil as do some others -- don't know if it makes a difference what type lubricant to use?

[Brockport Bill 1,951]

SORRY - I MIS-STATED -- ITS NOT GEAR OIL I use,  ITS CHAIN LUBE LUBRICANT PENETRANT SPRAY - I wonder if the penetrant feature helps it to penetrate the deck and helps more with the absorbtion and therefore helping stop the grass from sticking???????

[Ed Kennell 42,021]

I use old motor oil.   And due to the constant rain, I confess I do have to mow damp grass and do get some accumulation although I am able to hose most of it out after each mowing.     I relate the oil finish on my decks to my hot wax finish on my oak flooring.   It is not a hard surface coating that can chip and peel, but a protectant that has penetrated into the material.

[kpinnc 14,650]

4 hours ago, lynnmor said:

Three weeks in a row with a complete cleaning and oiling.  I call BS on the effectiveness of oiling to prevent buildup. 

 

We've had so much rain this year that any mowing results in sticky green accumulation on a deck. That soft heavy spring grass? We've had it all summer. 

 

I have no idea which method works best. What works in NC may be useless in Indiana. Different environment, different grasses. I think what is important is to try to keep the deck cleared off after each use. Until I find something that is effective, that's what I'll do. 

[lynnmor 7,823]

I clean out after every mowing, there is always considerable buildup.  Since the 60" deck on my zero turn flips up to a vertical position, cleaning is rather easy.  My 60" Wheel Horse deck builds up the same but all I can easily do is run it up a ramp and hose it out.  While I try to mow only dry grass I did mow one time this year with a wet lawn and it even rained while doing it, I had the least amount of buildup ever.

 

There is no such thing as soaking steel with oil of any kind, ask yourself how would they keep it in the can.

[kpinnc 14,650]

1 hour ago, lynnmor said:

There is no such thing as soaking steel with oil of any kind, ask yourself how would they keep it in the can.

 

I agree. However, I think coating the deck with oil has its merit. Is it a fix all? No it is not. 

 

Oil creeps everywhere by capillary action. That's one of the properties that make it a good lubricant. 

 

If nothing else, the underside of the deck won't flash rust. Personally, I think that is the only positive it provides down here in the south. 

 

Again, just cleaning out the grass after each use works best. Maybe epoxy coating or similar lasts a while, but I haven't found anything that protects a deck all season yet. 

[lynnmor 7,823]

1 hour ago, kpinnc said:

 

I agree. However, I think coating the deck with oil has its merit. Is it a fix all? No it is not. 

 

Oil creeps everywhere by capillary action. That's one of the properties that make it a good lubricant. 

 

If nothing else, the underside of the deck won't flash rust. Personally, I think that is the only positive it provides down here in the south. 

 

Again, just cleaning out the grass after each use works best. Maybe epoxy coating or similar lasts a while, but I haven't found anything that protects a deck all season yet. 

I agree with all of that.  I make sure that all fasteners and seams get a good coat and the rest gets some.  I have never seen any trace of oil where much of the grass hits, only a little where there is no action.  Since there will be some maintenance or repair at some time the fasteners should be good.

 

I painted the underside of my rear discharge 42" deck with some very old enamel, containing enough lead to condemn my property, and it did hold up better than anything, about 3 years before major paint loss.

[kpinnc 14,650]

2 hours ago, lynnmor said:

enough lead to condemn my property

 

 Too funny!

 

 

[Brockport Bill 1,951]

5 hours ago, lynnmor said:

I clean out after every mowing, there is always considerable buildup.  Since the 60" deck on my zero turn flips up to a vertical position, cleaning is rather easy.  My 60" Wheel Horse deck builds up the same but all I can easily do is run it up a ramp and hose it out.  While I try to mow only dry grass I did mow one time this year with a wet lawn and it even rained while doing it, I had the least amount of buildup ever.

 

There is no such thing as soaking steel with oil of any kind, ask yourself how would they keep it in the can.

That's great point.....however I'm wondering the difference between oil, meaning a lubricant,  and a product called "penetrant "..Seemingly a penetrant "penetrates...

So maybe that product difference of using just motor oil versus using a penetrant is the variable? Chemistry was not my best subject but wondering how the benefit would vary of penetrant versus a lubricant as an underneath the deck product for the purpose we're discussing? The Spray chain lube i use on deck bottom calls itself lubricant and penetrant. 

[SylvanLakeWH 28,439]

I wash my deck with the hose after every mow and then light coat of oil after it dries. I get build up every time unless it is draught dry...

 

The oil is to reduce rusting... it doesn't prevent build up in my case...

 

[lynnmor 7,823]

9 hours ago, Brockport Bill said:

That's great point.....however I'm wondering the difference between oil, meaning a lubricant,  and a product called "penetrant "..Seemingly a penetrant "penetrates...

So maybe that product difference of using just motor oil versus using a penetrant is the variable? Chemistry was not my best subject but wondering how the benefit would vary of penetrant versus a lubricant as an underneath the deck product for the purpose we're discussing? The Spray chain lube i use on deck bottom calls itself lubricant and penetrant. 

Penetrating oil is simply a very low viscosity oil that has a better chance of getting in the interface of two parts.  It does not penetrate the molecular structure of the metal.  Various solvents are added to penetrating oil to further reduce the viscosity.  Some chain lubes have a solvent that evaporates out of it and leaves the thicker oil to do its job.

[Brockport Bill 1,951]

14 hours ago, lynnmor said:

Penetrating oil is simply a very low viscosity oil that has a better chance of getting in the interface of two parts.  It does not penetrate the molecular structure of the metal.  Various solvents are added to penetrating oil to further reduce the viscosity.  Some chain lubes have a solvent that evaporates out of it and leaves the thicker oil to do its job.

thanks -- i love learning