RJR49 145 #1 Posted July 25 (edited) My brother is giving me his C-160! It hasn't run in at least 15 years. It was put away because his significant other did something? Don't know what. But, I do know that the motor isn't frozen and it doesn't feel like the connecting rods broken. New battery, obviously, replace the gas and oil. What else should I do? Edited July 26 by RJR49 3 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 73,727 #2 Posted July 26 Awesome! Check the "New to the Herd" list. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 145 #3 Posted July 26 An AMAZING!!! post. It should be a sticky. I've owned / driven Wheel Horses since i was 14 years old. Wheel Horses from 1045 to C-160. Even after all those years and Horses I learned from that post 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 73,727 #4 Posted July 26 11 minutes ago, RJR49 said: An AMAZING!!! post. It should be a sticky. I've owned / driven Wheel Horses since i was 14 years old. Wheel Horses from 1045 to C-160. Even after all those years and Horses I learned from that post A LOT of us had good input there. I've used it myself quite a few times now. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 61,083 #6 Posted July 26 One thing that is not on the list that I learned the hard way. Always tent the new to you tractor with a tarp outside before you ever bring it in side and set off a bug bomb to kill of any mice or other critters you don't want moving into your shop. 6 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 73,727 #7 Posted July 26 52 minutes ago, 953 nut said: One thing that is not on the list that I learned the hard way. Always tent the new to you tractor with a tarp outside before you ever bring it in side and set off a bug bomb to kill of any mice or other critters you don't want moving into your shop. This is excellent advice. We do that a little differently here by way of a partial disassembly outside. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,358 #8 Posted July 26 @RJR49 like to run in an unknown engine on a seperate gallon of heavily treated fresh fuel , eliminating tank and hoses , known for crud / deuteration of fuel hose break down , another thing I regularly add to my oil is rislone ZINC zddp , 4 ounces for 2qts of oil , bottle rec. the operational smoothness , and varnish cutting is very evident , never scream the hell out of a unknown engine , drop carb bowl , clean out , also like sta bil in all my fuel , stops fuel hose break down , replace existing rubber hoses , probably packed with break down . thats a great opportunity for you , hope it works out well for you , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 145 #9 Posted August 23 They don't make them like they used to but I'm surprised how much of a difference 2 years make. My 1975 C-160 has a steel filler/dip stick tube The 1977's is plastic. The 1975 has steel clips holding the dipstick. The 1977 has a rubber stopper that is so hard it's completely ineffective. I'm thinking that I'll replace it with a cork and hope that I don't lose the dipstick. The biggest difference (so far) is that the seat and rear fenders are hinged on the 75. The 77 seat flips up to reveal a hole that you can't really get your fingers through to check the oil level. The fenders are bolted down! They also changed the hitch so that the tow bar and the mount for a lift attachment are both incorporated. Not useful to me but I'm sure that those of you with a plow and a wagon would like it. All I've done so far is power wash the tractor. The amount of crap that came out from behind the panel was shocking! Change the transmission fluid and filter. If there is a vent for the transmission mines plugged because it took forever to fill it. Advise is always welcome! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,951 #10 Posted August 23 38 minutes ago, RJR49 said: Change the transmission fluid and filter. If there is a vent for the transmission mines plugged because it took forever to fill it. Advise is always welcome! Did you jack the front in order to fully drain the transmission? There is no vent, you can carefully clean and remove a bolt for the seat support to vent while you fill. If the one you remove doesn't go thru, remove another one. Someone on here will know which one is best, I just use patience and add the oil over time. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 145 #11 Posted August 23 I didn't raise the front but its not too late. I've got a long way to go before I try to start it 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,314 #12 Posted August 25 (edited) I’ve learned to fill using a funnel linked to a tube much smaller than the filler tube and long enough to almost reach the bottom of the transaxle. Yes, it takes a long time to fill but no “burping” of oil out of the filler. Also, something to keep in mind with hydros is that when draining, a substantial amount of oil remains in the charge pump, motion pump/motor, and the plumbing to the lift valve and cylinder which is all but impossible to extract. I always measure the oil that came out when figuring how much to put in to avoid accidental overflow. Edited August 25 by Handy Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 29,016 #13 Posted August 25 Here's how I filled mine. The dip stick created the perfect balance of air vent / oil in... slow and steady resulting in no spills. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 145 #14 Posted August 25 I didn't think about it until just now but I have a vacuum pump I use to change the oil in my boat. I'm wondering if that would remove more of the transmission fluid? The rubber in my dip stick is so hard that it will never seal so I made one. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 10,840 #15 Posted August 25 I don’t thing the vacuums pump will help much. There is a hump in the middle of the bottom of the transmission. As Linnie sai you have to raise the front as much as you safely can to get fluid to drain over that hump. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,314 #16 Posted August 27 On 8/25/2025 at 6:17 PM, oliver2-44 said: I don’t thing the vacuums pump will help much. There is a hump in the middle of the bottom of the transmission. As Linnie sai you have to raise the front as much as you safely can to get fluid to drain over that hump. Agree. A couple of really determined members have added a second drain hole/plug to the bottom, of the transaxle on the other side of “the hump.” 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,959 #17 Posted August 28 On 7/26/2025 at 8:01 AM, ebinmaine said: This is excellent advice. We do that a little differently here by way of a partial disassembly outside. Erick that is the way I do it also. Tins off engine remove hood. And seat pan is a must. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 145 #18 Posted September 10 Started pulling apart this afternoon. I started with the carb. It was welded to the block. At least it seemed that way. It took a chisel and several blows from a jammer to break it loose. When I took the bowl off I was shocked at how clean it was. I don't remember when Ethanol was put in gas but I'm willing to bet that this one has never seen it 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
