bwiesman78 14 #1 Posted July 8 Can someone descriibe the process of adding a shim in the steering column so the teeth don't have too much play in them? When I turn the steering wheel hard while going slow it jumps gears. Thanks so much! 1978 C-81 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 9,342 #2 Posted July 8 (edited) Welcome! There is a shaft collar on the upper steering shaft that may need to be adjusted. Is there a lot of upward play when you lift the steering wheel?? If so, you may be able to remedy that by adjusting the collar position. One more thing... look at the frame mounting tabs on the lower steering block - the one with the grease fitting. Those ears break quite often... if they are broken, the block moves around when you steer. Edited July 8 by ri702bill 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 41,775 #3 Posted July 8 If the vertical (steering wheel) shaft is lifting up and disengaging the fan gear, you may be able to loosen the set screw and tap the thrust collar up to prevent the lift. Chances are the plastic thrust bushing is worn out, but to replace that would require removing the steering wheel. Could also be the lower shaft is worn and moving or the ears on the bearing block may be broke. 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 41,775 #4 Posted July 8 Oops, Bill types real fast. 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,289 #5 Posted July 8 Along with all of the above suggestions, there is a bronze bushing in the steering block that will wear and cause slop. 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,714 #6 Posted July 9 And this hole near the grease fitting will wallow out. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 7,185 #7 Posted July 9 It can be any or all the thing mention above. They changed the support at the top steering shaft on the later C series the upper bushing and the hole both can be worn. This will cause miss alinement with the fan gear. the 300 and 400 uses the same set up. this is what I did to my 300's. I used a 6472 flange bearing bolted in place on my 312-8. 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 59,746 #8 Posted July 9 If all of the upper steering shaft fittings and the steering block are in good order then shims on the lower steering shaft will pull the fan gear closer to the pinion. 6 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bwiesman78 14 #9 Posted July 9 Wow, thanks everyone, that's a lot of information! I will have to check all these things out, I didn't even know there were parts down there with grease fittings as I am fairly new to these things but I will be digging into this soon! Love this little tractor so it will be getting the care it deserves! 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 59,746 #10 Posted July 9 6 minutes ago, bwiesman78 said: I didn't even know there were parts down there with grease fitting Lots of parts down there. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OutdoorEnvy 1,766 #11 Posted July 9 7 hours ago, Lee1977 said: I used a 6472 flange bearing bolted in place on my 312-8. Thanks for the part number Lee! Did you cut and weld the steering shaft or what did you use to connect it back together? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 7,185 #12 Posted July 9 (edited) 4 hours ago, OutdoorEnvy said: Thanks for the part number Lee! Did you cut and weld the steering shaft or what did you use to connect it back together? I've been lucky on most of my Wheel Horses getting the steering wheel off. That 312-8 I had to cut the shaft it had been stored out side before I got it. I cut it down low and added about 3" . You can see in that picture in the post above it's larger right below the battery support. It has the has the front spindle for 6" wheels and 8" wheel with 25" rear tires. The fender pan,. bracket and gas tand was raised 1 3/4". . Edited July 9 by Lee1977 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bwiesman78 14 #13 Posted July 9 1 hour ago, Lee1977 said: I've been lucky on most of my Wheel Horses getting the steering wheel off. That 312-8 I had to cut the shaft it had been stored out side before I got it. I cut it down low and added about 3" . You can see in that picture in the post above it's larger right below the battery support. It has the has the front spindle for 6" wheels and 8" wheel with 25" rear tires. Tfender pan. bracket and gas tand was raised 1 3/4". . So, if I can get the steering wheel off, then your part would just be a bolt up solution, right? I'm not a welder. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 9,342 #14 Posted July 9 39 minutes ago, bwiesman78 said: So, if I can get the steering wheel off About as frustrating as removing a hub to replace a leaking axle seal..... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bwiesman78 14 #15 Posted July 10 On 7/8/2025 at 5:29 PM, ri702bill said: Welcome! There is a shaft collar on the upper steering shaft that may need to be adjusted. Is there a lot of upward play when you lift the steering wheel?? If so, you may be able to remedy that by adjusting the collar position. One more thing... look at the frame mounting tabs on the lower steering block - the one with the grease fitting. Those ears break quite often... if they are broken, the block moves around when you steer. This solved my issue, thank you all so much!! Moved it up about 1/4" and no more teeth jumping...Wheel on! 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
