tvr383 0 #1 Posted September 18, 2009 Folks, All kind of problems surge whe somebody try to give life to a horse that's been in the barn too long isn't it? I am finding this out and it starts to make a long bill!! In my attempt of adapting a sears Deck to my 18-auto,today first day in the field,got its share of deceptions! motor woes wich I've posted in the engines section and PTO. SO up to now I never had chance to check the state of the clutchs of the PTO in any other way than just seeing that there was some asbestos material over the rivets but not much when I've reassembled it. So trying to put power to my deck Isaw very little capacity to turn arond the pulleys from the PTO ...fiddled with the adjustement le gthening the rod to no avail! So could it be I've goofed reassembling it or does it sound like a worned out clutch? If its just worned-out are these still availabl or shoud I look into finding a shop that rebuilds out of production clutches? thanks, Ronald. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bitten 133 #2 Posted September 19, 2009 When I got my D the clutch pack was shot. I had to totly rebuild it with new and used parts. Took some time (and$$) to acquire everything. Most of the little things like bearings, washers, clutch faceing, and retainer clips are available new. I had to replace the pulley and the forks that hold it to engage/disangae, got them used. The crank is alittle worn, but I only use it to till with so I take it off or keep it engaged. I do have a snow blower for it but have not used it. Your post about your coil sounds very familer to how mine acted when I got it. I cleaned and used a rebuild kit on the carb, replaced the coil with a new one and put new plugs in it and it runs like a top. These are just my experances with my D and I hope they help you or someone else. I am no expert or mechanic. P.J. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,193 #3 Posted September 19, 2009 The friction linings are still available from Toro as are the rivets. I had to replace one on my D200 as a big chunk of one plate was missing. Serviced the whole assembly following the manual direction and reinstalled. works the 5 ft finish mower with out any slippage and runs the hydro pump for the FEL no problem.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tvr383 0 #4 Posted September 20, 2009 The friction linings are still available from Toro as are the rivets. I had to replace one on my D200 as a big chunk of one plate was missing. Serviced the whole assembly following the manual direction and reinstalled. works the 5 ft finish mower with out any slippage and runs the hydro pump for the FEL no problem.... The thing is I recently had the PTO dissasembled and as far the disks are concerned they looked all right with some material exceeding the rivets...I would say maybe a 1/16 of an inch. But inadvertly my son painted the disks wich is not too good! Very carefully I've sanded the paint off but I wonder if I could have ,sanding it,left an imperfect surface so it doesn't bite anymore or not as it should anyway? Next thing I'll do is to take it down again and inspect it good and make sure I did put it back together the right way. I wonder if 1/16 or so is enough to get its full power or definitely its too thin..anybody knows? What thickness has a new disk? Things to keep one's mind looking for solutions I guess! thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,193 #5 Posted September 20, 2009 I will try to remember to measure one tomorrow. As long as the rivets aren't rubbing it should woork fine... (Don't know about residual paint impact... di dyou use a belt sander so the friction surface is flat and parallel?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tvr383 0 #6 Posted September 20, 2009 I will try to remember to measure one tomorrow. As long as the rivets aren't rubbing it should woork fine... (Don't know about residual paint impact... di dyou use a belt sander so the friction surface is flat and parallel?? I've just used an emery cloth and fingertips light rubbing ;eventually if its worthed I'll sand it again on an emery flat on a table saw surface or similar to make sum not creating uneaveness but I doubt its dammaged since it was so light a sanding. But what came to my mind after few minutes of slipping clutches when trying out my deck is have I glazed it from overheating? It needs to be dissassembled and checked but if you find out what's a new one measure that could help. thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
baerpath 517 #7 Posted September 20, 2009 I just measured a new unused one 1/8 inch of material. Or if your looking at it the steel and the friction are equal depth Duane Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rick 217 #8 Posted September 20, 2009 If you glazed it , the sanding will take care of that... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tvr383 0 #9 Posted September 20, 2009 I just measured a new unused one 1/8 inch of material. Or if your looking at it the steel and the friction are equal depth Duane Duane, Do you mean 1/8 of an inch as the disk total thickness or 1/8 exceeding the rivets? Without actully using a caliper I'd say mine has a full 1/8 even closer to 3/16 total thickness with about 1/16 exceeding the rivets. thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tvr383 0 #10 Posted September 20, 2009 If you glazed it , the sanding will take care of that... Well whatever it was I dismounted all the pieces used brake cleaner right onto the disks,wich were pretty dark and kind of greasy feeling to,sanded both disks and pulleys sides reassembled it and went mowing and it worked I'm satisfied as this is a Sears deck that needed some fidling to adapt to the 18-auto. an today was a trial and it works. thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bitten 133 #11 Posted September 21, 2009 Glad that is all the was wrong and that you got it up and running. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
