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hebeegeebe

C 161 Hubs problem

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hebeegeebe

I can't keep either wheel on the axle for long on my hilly terrain.  I've adjusted those hubs dozens of times.  Considering trying an axle clamp.  Any suggetions on clamp size or other possibilities?

 

Also, as I was banging on that wheel to adjust the hub for the umpteenth time, I damaged the little rubber "tee" fitting for the gas line where it leaves the tank.  A suggestion on remedying that would be quite helpful.  Replacement part #'s or a fix it idea?  I few hose clamps strung long are keeping it from gushing right now.  But its leaking.

 

I haven't gotten that 5L840 belt yet for the C-160, but hope to track one down tomorrow.

 

I know this is a horse forum, but I'm going to describe my dilemma and I imagine someone on here might have some ideas;

 

I mow about 2 1/2 acres.  Did it with old beat riders zip tied together that I could afford for years.  Occassionally renting a walk behind billy goat when it got too high.  Didn't know anything about Wheel Horse.  Saw a C 161 with AG tires on Craig's for $300 and got hooked.  Still, even when tinker/tickled to a purring condition (which never seems to last long) mowing that lot was challenging.  Maybe 10 years ago I splurged on a used Yazoo/Kees ZT Max 61" Zero Turn commercial mower for $1200.  Total life changer.  Its an awesome, heavy machine and incredible time saver.  This Spring, one of the three blade spindle/arbors failed.  Husqvarna is now in control of Yazoo/Kees and they do not make parts for them anymore.

 

 No one seems to. 

 

I've been trying to keep up with the mowing using a C- 161 with 36" deck (Love that little deck!) and C-160 automatic with 48" deck.  Both need added tinkering as I'm using them more, both are down, now.  The grass is high.  Can't find anyone in the Columbus Ohio area to work on the Zero turn.  I feel confident about completing the repair if I could get the parts.  I don't feel so confident about modification or successfully finding and making something else work.  Its such a solid beast.  I'm certain there's a spin(dle) doctor that can help it to roar for at least another 10 years.

 

Yazoo/Kees

ZKH 61252

61" deck

 

 

 

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JimSraj

Have you tried 8Ten for parts?

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oliver2-44

On you axle hubs and shafts are the keys and key ways  good and square or are the wallowed out. If still quaternary get new cupped point locking bolts. The cup on these looses sharpness and doesn’t bite in as good. Also On later models WH added a 2nd cup point locking bolt 90 degrees from the 1st one. Many of us drill and tap a 2nd one in our old hubs. 

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ebinmaine
5 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

are the keys and key ways  good and square or are the wallowed out

 

Here's a couple pics of a good square keyway and the double set screw holes. 

 

Carefully check your hubs, axles, keys, and REPLACE your set screws. 

 

 

20250617_172646.jpg.2cca207908c9aa9d96f345bc1bf3a700.jpg

 

20250617_172657.jpg.3607e6c9861aa2c0bfb3a249eead3abe.jpg

 

 

 

7 hours ago, hebeegeebe said:

can't keep either wheel on the axle for long on my hilly terrain

 

I live on the side of a mountain and we haul very heavy loads. 

My hubs don't move once they're set TWICE after installation.  

 

 

7 hours ago, hebeegeebe said:

was banging on that wheel

 

Please do not do this. The axles have a keeper ring that can be damaged.  

 

 

7 hours ago, hebeegeebe said:

damaged the little rubber "tee" fitting for the gas line where it leaves the tank.  A suggestion on remedying that would be quite helpful.  Replacement part #'s or a fix it idea?

 

The rubber grommet and that fuel valve are readily available from many sources. 

I do NOT recommend using cheap parts. 

 

Good quality replacement pieces are available from Aircraft Spruce Company. 

 

I can get you links later today if it would help. 

 

While you're in the fuel system you need to replace ALL of the fuel line with good modern rubber lines. 

Consider adding a primer bulb as well. 

 

 

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ri702bill
Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

Many of us drill and tap a 2nd one in our old hubs. 

I do just that on any I have that came with only one bolt over the keyway. McMaster Carr has the correct cup point square head set screws.

As @ebinmaine and I will tell you, it is imperative that the set screws be properly torqued, not just snuggged up & a tad beyond. It is now part of my semi annual ritual of swapping winter / summer tires.

 

Do check out A-Z Tractors in the Vendor section. They sell a custom machined Taper-Lok design repair hub. Not exactly cheap, but easily installed & removed.... and no more set screws to deal with.

 

Edited by ri702bill
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mrc

i've had very good luck with the taper-lok repair hubs that A-Z tractor sells. 

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Lee1977
Posted (edited)

Once a set of hubs get worn and loose there isn't a way to fix them.  The taper lock hubs from A-Z Tractor will fix the problem. I replaced both of mine with the taper lock on my Raider 

SAM-1955.jpg

Edited by Lee1977
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gwest_ca

Do the hubs have 2 threaded holes so you can remove the hub? It appears all holes are occupied by a bolt?

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ebinmaine
24 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

Do the hubs have 2 threaded holes so you can remove the hub? It appears all holes are occupied by a bolt?

 

 

Here's Lincoln's thread from the introduction of the hubs. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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mrc

gwest,

 

 i have installed 2-3 of these hubs.  never removed one yet.  however, if you look at the pic provided by Lee1977 you will see 6 allen head bolts.   3 are long and 3 are short.  if memory serves me correct you put the long screws in the short holes and the hub becomes its own puller.  hopefully someone can explain it better to you.

 

regards

mike

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