AlexR 1,872 #1 Posted June 16 (edited) Here is the new to me 1975 Simplicity 7016 I did some trading with my neighbor. It was his Dad's who passed away last year who was our neighbor as well, that we were pretty close to for the amount of time we lived here. So it has some sentimental value as well. Especially for his son who lives there now, knowing it's being taken care and close by. It has the tiller, a front blade, and a deck which probably to far gone to save. Also some wheel weights I did wash it before the photos. The sticker is not right I did check the model number on the tractor and it is a 7016. I did check the bevel gearbox and it doesn't have to much slop it's still within acceptable range. After checking this tractor out I can really appreciate the simplicity of the Wheelhorse tractors (pun not intended haha) That said I do love the look of the tractor with this particular hood and the light pods on the side. Edited June 16 by AlexR 4 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,710 #2 Posted June 17 10 hours ago, AlexR said: After checking this tractor out I can really appreciate the simplicity of the Wheelhorse tractors (pun not intended haha) Absolutely agreed. Our stable is filled with Wheelhorse tractors and implementation specifically for that reason. 10 hours ago, AlexR said: That said I do love the look of the tractor with this particular hood and the light pods on the side Neat looking rig. Those side steps with multiple holes are practical pieces. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 60,069 #3 Posted June 17 Being a hydro drive you would think the implement lift would have been hydro also. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 1,872 #4 Posted June 17 3 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Absolutely agreed. Our stable is filled with Wheelhorse tractors and implementation specifically for that reason. Neat looking rig. Those side steps with multiple holes are practical pieces. The wheelhorse's aren't going anywhere that's for sure. Definitely if you get a lot of mud on your shoes as well. I guess I did forget to mention the tractor is non-running right now. Ran when parked though, and it was stored inside so I don't anticipate much other then old gas/carb and battery. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 1,872 #5 Posted June 17 59 minutes ago, 953 nut said: Being a hydro drive you would think the implement lift would have been hydro also. Thanks! Yeah I was hoping it was hydro lift but I think it was just like Wheelhorse it was a option a lot of people didn't want to spend the money on. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,279 #6 Posted June 18 @AlexR nice pick up on that , one of the first opportunities you have is to give that an aerosol lubrication soak down ! that paint condition will easily pop thru , with a deep shine , like a penetrating oil first , let it sit for effect , a day or two , than wipe it down with a mineral oil clean cloth , any buffing , like a 6" electric palm buffer , cleaner wax , for paint enhancement . done a lot of it . full chassis service , looks like a winner to me, pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 1,872 #7 Posted June 20 So I got it to run... Well for a bit. It started right up ran for about 30 seconds then died every time I started it after it ran for a shorter and shorter time. Not sure completely if it's spark or fuel related. From the dates written on the old fuel filter and on the engine for the oil change I would say the last time this thing ran was 2014. So the little bit of fuel was badly varnished. Fortunately there was a valve right at the carb and it was closed. So before I ever started it I removed all the old fuel and blew the lines out and the tank out as best as I could. New fuel filter, new sparkplug, and changed the oil. Removed the carburetor disassembled and ran it threw the ultrasonic cleaner. So I already read up on the fuel leak issue from the emulsion tube seat, on these Briggs flojet carbs. So I tightened and loosened it to mate the surfaces better. But after I put it together and filled it up of course it started leaking. I don't believe this is a original Briggs carb and even if if is, I'm not sure if these are like the Kohler Carbs were original is better or like Tecumseh carbs where often aftermarket works better. I am going to try and work on the carb a bit more to see if I can get it to work but the throttle is a bit loose so I'm sure its pulling air threw there. So I could use some advice on these carbs is there a decent aftermarket carb? Do I just need to rebuild with the carb I have? Or is a new Briggs $140 carb the only way to go? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,710 #8 Posted June 21 The only one I've ever messed with is a 1978 Briggs 8 HP engine that was on a snowblower. When we were trying to get it running to use on Trina's 657 "Pony" I tried to get that carb to set right several times. Turned out it had a warped side I couldn't sand straight. I got a good used carb from Lincoln at A to Z Tractor in PA and rebuilt that. Been fine since. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 1,872 #9 Posted June 28 So I got a new eBay carb, don't have a leak issue anymore but determined the not starting/dying issue is actually a intermittent spark issue. So I need to chase that down. I also need to pull the check valves on the sundstrand pretty sure the balls are stuck. As the tractor doesn't move right now. We'll see if I can get it going tomorrow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,710 #10 Posted June 28 (edited) Do some research on the electronic ignition conversion possibilities for that engine. My 1978 Briggs 8 HP had a Pertronix (??) Module installed. Edited June 28 by ebinmaine 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 1,872 #11 Posted June 28 11 hours ago, ebinmaine said: So some research on the electronic ignition conversion possibilities for that engine. Biggest problem I have seen is I'm pretty sure the flywheel magnets need repolarizing, so the flywheel has to be sent somewhere. Unless I can figure out a way to do it myself. They can also be changed to battery ignition since they have points. Or I can just fix the system it has. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,710 #12 Posted June 28 7 minutes ago, AlexR said: Biggest problem I have seen is I'm pretty sure the flywheel magnets need repolarizing, so the flywheel has to be sent somewhere. Unless I can figure out a way to do it myself. They can also be changed to battery ignition since they have points. Or I can just fix the system it has. I can't speak for what you have there not being specifically familiar with the systems. On the 8 HP single cylinder I have the old ignition was points under the flywheel. My engine shop left that in place. They didn't remove the flywheel to install the module. I believe the Briggs systems are different from the Tecumseh and Kohler systems in that the charging set ups of the latter two don't allow usage of a trigger ignition. Just food for thought..... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 1,872 #13 Posted June 28 Well I watched a video from Taryl Fixes All on the Briggs ignition and he has a genius solution, instead of sending the flywheel off to Briggs which apparently they don't even do anymore. Just flip the coil around from the way it says to install it. Bam polarity reversed. Unfortunately I will probably have to remove the engine to do all that, as it's a shaft drive back to the bevel gearbox, so it's connected to the flywheel. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 1,872 #14 Posted June 28 It's running and driving now!! The ignition/spark issue was the insulation on the coil wire was rubbed through were it goes through the points cover. So it was shorting out. I pulled the cover off did some more carb work and it runs good now!! Pulled the check valves and got those loosened up and ended up pulling one back out and dumping some fluid in there and finally got the hydro to wake up and work. And it actually does work good it's like it wasn't picking up fluid from the bottom of the transmission at first. (I did verify fluid level) Still needs some work, but it does fire right off. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sergeant 323 #16 Posted June 28 On 6/17/2025 at 7:28 AM, AlexR said: Thanks! Yeah I was hoping it was hydro lift but I think it was just like Wheelhorse it was a option a lot of people didn't want to spend the money on. Usually the 7016 had an optional electric lift actuator. It wasn't until the early 1980s that hydraulic lift was back as an option. Before the 1970s, hydraulic lift was the only option after manual lift. But what is interesting about the manual lift is you can have two manual lifts on at the same time: one for the rear implements and Mowing deck (left side, which was standard) and one for the front implements (right side, which was optional). But the left side lever could Pick Up all 3 lift Points . The Optional right side lever was just for front Implements. But that was Nice You could run the front Blade with the Tiller Installed or a Front snow thrower with a rear blade on on control each Independently. My 7016 has the electric lift kit, but that Briggs in my 7016 gave up the ghost in 2015. I was giving it to a friend, and I dropped it at the mechanic for him, but when he found out the cost to fix it, he left it at the Simplicity dealer. All I have left of my 7016 is the one-point hitch (sleeve hitch), as I always planned to get a later Simplicity Sovereign 18H, which comes standard with hydraulic lift and hydraulic power steering. The downside of the 1-point hitch is that it also uses a cable to raise and lower the hitch, like the Wheel Horse slot or Clevis Hitch. I wish both Simplicity and Wheel Horse would have made a metal arm or some type instead of a cable to raise and lower their rear hitches. But the Simplicity 1-point hitch does lift a bit higher than a clevis hitch on a Wheel Horse. Nice when plowing with a sleeve hitch plow. Dips don't make the plow hit the ground when at transport height on the Sovereign Like My WH416H does sometimes. That's the one place Deere got smart after the round fender 110/112. which used a cable to raise and lower their integral hitch (sleeve hitch). Deere went to a metal arm setup for the Integral Hitch in their 110/112 Square Fenders in 1968. And that system was used through the JD 200 series until the end of production in 1987. When the Simplicity Conquest/Prestige came out, the 1-point hitch used a metal arm to connect their 1-point hitch to the tractor's rocker shaft. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 1,872 #17 Posted June 29 1 hour ago, sergeant said: Usually the 7016 had an optional electric lift actuator. It wasn't until the early 1980s that hydraulic lift was back as an option. Before the 1970s, hydraulic lift was the only option after manual lift. But what is interesting about the manual lift is you can have two manual lifts on at the same time: one for the rear implements and Mowing deck (left side, which was standard) and one for the front implements (right side, which was optional). But the left side lever could Pick Up all 3 lift Points . The Optional right side lever was just for front Implements. But that was Nice You could run the front Blade with the Tiller Installed or a Front snow thrower with a rear blade on on control each Independently. My 7016 has the electric lift kit, but that Briggs in my 7016 gave up the ghost in 2015. I was giving it to a friend, and I dropped it at the mechanic for him, but when he found out the cost to fix it, he left it at the Simplicity dealer. All I have left of my 7016 is the one-point hitch (sleeve hitch), as I always planned to get a later Simplicity Sovereign 18H, which comes standard with hydraulic lift and hydraulic power steering. The downside of the 1-point hitch is that it also uses a cable to raise and lower the hitch, like the Wheel Horse slot or Clevis Hitch. I wish both Simplicity and Wheel Horse would have made a metal arm or some type instead of a cable to raise and lower their rear hitches. But the Simplicity 1-point hitch does lift a bit higher than a clevis hitch on a Wheel Horse. Nice when plowing with a sleeve hitch plow. Dips don't make the plow hit the ground when at transport height on the Sovereign Like My WH416H does sometimes. That's the one place Deere got smart after the round fender 110/112. which used a cable to raise and lower their integral hitch (sleeve hitch). Deere went to a metal arm setup for the Integral Hitch in their 110/112 Square Fenders in 1968. And that system was used through the JD 200 series until the end of production in 1987. When the Simplicity Conquest/Prestige came out, the 1-point hitch used a metal arm to connect their 1-point hitch to the tractor's rocker shaft. I saw the option for the dual lift that would have been sweet, I would have liked that for the front blade and tiller. Thank you very much for the information very informative. I see they have some sleeve hitch kits on eBay for these simplicity's, if I decide to use this one for plowing I might get that. But I already have my one gear drive Wheelhorse that is setup as a plow mule, and I have another gear drive wheelhorse that is in line to get restored that I am thinking of using for plowing as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sergeant 323 #18 Posted June 29 43 minutes ago, AlexR said: I saw the option for the dual lift that would have been sweet, I would have liked that for the front blade and tiller. Thank you very much for the information very informative. I see they have some sleeve hitch kits on eBay for these simplicity's, if I decide to use this one for plowing I might get that. But I already have my one gear drive Wheelhorse that is setup as a plow mule, and I have another gear drive wheelhorse that is in line to get restored that I am thinking of using for plowing as well. Well, the good thing about the tiller is you already have most of the 1-point hitch; all you need is this. shown below BTW that section of the 1 point Hitch has actually never changed from the original simplicity Garden tractors of the 1960's to the Conquest or Prestige I actually have two Late Model 1- point Hitches for the Conquest an Prestige as well One for tractors with suspension and one for tractors without Suspension. The 1-Point set up for the Tractors with suspension have extra Brackets that Bolt to the frame so You remove the rear shocks to use the 1-point Hitch 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 1,872 #19 Posted July 17 Getting tired of this transmission problem, so it sat for a week or two I fixed the wiring issues, starts right up now. Go to move it doesn't move... Well I didn't have time that day to do anything. So today I wanted to move it, so I can start working on my 72 Raider 14 Tried everything, pulled the bypass valves again dumped fluid in again, I actually added some fluid to the transmission. Messed with the bypass valves would not move or try to.. So got my Wheelhorse and towed the tractor out of there with the freewheeling handle pushed down on the bypass valves. Just towed it slowly to where I wanted to put it. Got it there and then I was thinking so if the bypass valves need to be open to move it it must normally push fluid thru when you tow it. So I started it up again released the freewheeling handle. And yep instantly worked. Drove it around again even put the front wheels against something and tested the hydro and yup spun the wheels no problem. I guess there is some charge pump on this transmission that is the only thing I can figure it can be. Anyway it's out of the way for now and I want to work on my Raider 14 so it will probably sit a while again. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,066 #20 Posted July 17 32 minutes ago, AlexR said: I guess there is some charge pump on this transmission that is the only thing I can figure it can be. Lots of the heavier hydros have a charge pump used for a lift and to replace fluid in the motion circuit that seeps into the sump during normal operation. Hydros also need a way to prevent a pushed tractor from having the hydro “motor” drive the hydro “pump” and break trying to turn the engine! The WH Sunstrands have the bypass valve, the WH Eaton 1100s have internal “acceleration valves” that do the job AT VERY LOW SPEEDS. (Note the Eaton 700s have no bypass provision-hence they should never get pushed!) 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 1,872 #21 Posted July 17 26 minutes ago, Handy Don said: Lots of the heavier hydros have a charge pump used for a lift and to replace fluid in the motion circuit that seeps into the sump during normal operation. So I did some more research. And on these series 15 pumps on the charge pump there is a pin that drives the gear, and those are known to break. I do not have to pull the hydro off the tractor to access that charge pump, I will have to pull the tiller off as there is a pulley blocking the charge pump. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 1,872 #22 Posted July 18 Did a experiment today and started it up to see if it would move or not and it did but you could tell it took just a little bit to get the fluid flowing. Once it was it worked fine. Even shutting it down 15 minutes it will still work great after that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites