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Similar Content
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By Aaron Coffman
Hi Red Square Community,
I am looking into purchasing the below pictured "POND" Walk Away. The unit itself has the cast in “POND” on the chain reduction housing. The two main things I am looking to learn are what value is typical for these to sell for. This one has a Briggs & Stratton model “N” engine. It runs and drives, but the throttle linkage needs some adjusting. It comes with a cultivator and plow implement.
Secondly, I was wondering if there is any way to determine what year specifically this Pond is from. The seller believes late 1940s and not 1950s. I am new to these machines, so I am looking for some guidance. Thank you in advance!
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By BrianKoch
Gentlemen,
I am in need of help. While doing yard work with my K301 powered ‘68 Charger 12 it suddenly came to a stop and won’t start again.
My troubleshooting so far:
Fuel:
• stabil/87 and clean
• good flow before and after pump
• carb clean, recently rebuilt, float level correctly set
Compression:
•good? - blows finger off spark plug hole
•good turnover but doesn’t fire off
•piston and cylinders move freely
•valve lash set .008 intake .018 exhaust
•breather assembly correct and recently serviced with new gaskets and filter
•head gasket not broken, head bolts tight, some carbon on head
Spark:
•no spark
•all electrical/ignition components were replaced 1 year ago except voltage regulator
•no loose connections, no grounding connections
•inspected and applied graphite to starter shaft
•changed plug
•12v to coil good
•cleaned points, points wire has continuity
•condenser ground good
•swapped battery, points and wire, plug and wire, coil, and condenser from running K301 (‘69 Charger 12)
•points push rod does push out when turning engine over by hand, but unable to get points timed using multimeter method and timing mark on flywheel
What else should I check/do?
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By Porkskin
Hello all - New to the site, just brought home an '87 310-8 '86 312-A yesterday. So far, no start, no crank no click. For now please consider what it means when I hold the test switch and see all lamps lit except for the oil lamp which is blinking. Regarding that blinking can someone tell what that should tell me? Any other comments about what to expect form the lamps would be helpful. Page 5 of Tractor_1986_200-300-400_OM_810399R1.pdf mentions the lights but I'm not seeing it addresses what the blinking means in this case. Thanks all!
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By Mithral
So my Kohler CH18S had a coil problem. One coil tested out bad. So I replaced both coils while I have things apart, ... and now I have a coil grounding issue.
When the kill wire is connect to both coils, the engine will not start.
If I remove both kill wires the engine will start, and will consequently stop when I reconnect the wires.
If I remove one kill wire from either coil, the engine will start and run on one cylinder, until I reconnect the second kill wire and then the engine stops.
If I disconnect the kill wire going to the wire harness, it makes no difference to the above.
It appears that the kill wire connected in series from one coil to the other coil is grounding out from coil to coil.
I have no idea why this might be. Unless I simply got the wrong coils.
So I thought I would ask advice before I go rewiring myself a separate kill switch while I have everything opened up. Or I guess I could fall back to just choking it to turn off. Hmm....
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By richm1386
Quick story and a couple of questions concerning replacing the ignition coil on my '89 416-8 with Onan P216 engine.
So I got this old tractor from my Dad when he replaced it and it was running okay until a few weeks ago. Was picking up sticks and hauling them out to the wood pile when I idled down the tractor and then it stalled out (which happens all the time.) I tried starting again and it would not turn over. The starter would go and go but no ignition. I spent a lot of time on these forums and found some really good info including the service manual. I used that diagnose the problem and figured out the coil was bad. I ordered a new off brand coil and condenser from Amazon for $40 swapped them in last night and it fired almost immediately. Plus since I had taken the shroud off and disconnected the throttle cable it was idling well at very low throttle. I've still got to reassemble everything properly but it seems like the coil was the culprit.
That said I've got a couple questions.
1. Anybody have any luck with non-Onan coils?The one I got from Amazon seems well made but it is literally some no name part. I figured for $40 it was worth a shot.
2. Does it matter which spark plug attaches to which plug on the coil? I forgot to take a photo before I disassembled.
3. Could a failing coil cause very hard starts and stalling at low idle? I'm asking because as I said above the tractor has been very hard to start for years. Almost always needed to choke it. It would also stall out if you idled down nearly every time. Just the brief testing with the new coil that I've done, both of these issues seem much better. Also I used my Dad's replacement (early '90s 416-h with same engine) for this tractor while working on mine and it started and idled very easily. It looks like it might have a replacement coil as well. Just wondering.
Thanks all.
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