522xi Side to Side level deck adjustment

[mcfly10 4]

I am completely stumped as to how to adjust the left to right / side to side adjustment on a 48" side discharge deck for the 522xi. The discharge side of the deck is cutting 3/4" lower then the left side (if you are sitting on the tractor). With the cutting height setting all the way at its highest position, which i have to mow at or it will scalp I'm at 3.25" on the left side and 2.5" on the right (discharge) side. The eye bolts that lift the mower deck appear to only adjust how high it will lift up the attachment or mower deck. The manual for the side to side adjustment seems to be totally lack luster, and only shows adjustment on the left rear guide wheel. I attempted adjusting it there and that only made my gap larger, unable to adjust in the opposite direction. Can someone please point me in the correct direction?

[8ntruck 7,777]

Wheel Horse decks typically use the gage wheels to control cutting height.  The lift linkage typically is for lifting and controlling front to back level.  

 

I do own, nor have I ever worked on a 522 Xi, so this is just a guess.  I would start looking at the gage wheels and the height adjustment mechanism.  It is quite possible that something is twisted or bent.

 

There is also the possibility that there is something going on with the spindle on the discharge side making it cut lower - are all of the blades rotating in the same plane?  If not, the possibilities include a bent deck, a spindle issue, an incorrect blade, or an attachment issue of that blade to the spindle.

 

Good luck. 

Edited May 20 by 8ntruck

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,448]

Tractor tires inflated to the correct pressure?

[mcfly10 4]

Tire pressure is 15 psi all around. I believe the blades or on a level plane, there is little to no vibration with the blades running. Nothing appears bent on the gage wheels or the bar. Even if I measure from the lip of the mower deck to level pavement im seing a 3/4" left to right.

[JoeM 8,291]

There is vertical adjustment on the gauge wheel bar. Put the rear of the deck on some 2x4 at the corners and adjust the vertical bar to level with the deck.

[Pullstart 66,612]

Remember too, there are TWO lift links on the lift arms for the tractor on the Xi series.  I bought my 520Xi from a fella who had numerous  deck trips to a welding shop to “straighten” the deck, only for me to find it was just hanging from one side of he tractor.

[Pullstart 66,612]

Also, 

 

If you haven’t already checked your front axle pivot, I’d recommend doing so.

 

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/92609-xi-series-front-axle-pivot-repair/

 

[Handy Don 13,979]

Loving all the Xi-specific info!

FWIW, I got a 42” RD for 300-400-500s that was “lopsided” and finally discovered that a PO had been stepping on it to climb on and off the tractor. The height-adjusting crossbar had been torqued so that one side was nearly an inch off from the other. A friend with a BFWrench and a huge vise helped me torque it back in line. 

[mcfly10 4]

@JoeM

I attempted this I'm in the position where I'm in the top of the slots already, If I lower it any it only raises the left side and lowers the right even further. However I will make another attempt with the 2x4 method you suggested, and report back.

@Pullstart

Are you referring to the two eyebolts as lift links? If so mine are both attached.

 

If this method does not help I will take a bunch of various pictures and maybe someone can spot something that appears off.

[8ntruck 7,777]

  we are kind of like grade schoolers here - we really like pictures!

Edited May 21 by 8ntruck

[mcfly10 4]

I attempted to adjust left side on gage bar. it once again raised the left side and lowered the right further. I'd wager that I have a weld on the deck that warped the deck. The toe in / toe out on right front wheel maybe of concern as well. Check out the areas I circled in the images attached, they are varying left to right. Gage bar is measuring level to the concrete which is also level. Notice the belt adjustment indicators are uneven as well, despite adjusting to correct. Also included an image of the cut, notice scalping on right side. Love the stripe but not the unevenness. Especially now that the lawn is growing in much more thick than when these were taken.

[JoeM 8,291]

Toe in should be 1/8" should be plenty of room on tie rods to adjust.

The mule drive evenness, I usually readjust after running the deck. 

 

I guessing the weld job was not re-located close enough and the gauge wheels on on a tilt. The two rear gauge wheel mounting brackets on the deck should be vertical parallel. If the right has been welded tilted forward that would cause that side to be low. It doesn't take much. Might have to throw a shim in the top of the adjuster under the mounting bolt. You might as well scrap the 2x4 thing with the deck being repaired and it would be best to measure the blades from the floor.

Shim at the top to tilt it back, this will raise the discharge side.

 

Also, looks like the anti scalp wheels are worn out. Those should not contact the ground continuously and be adjusted one hole from the level floor with the deck lowered. That is after you get the gauge wheels leveled with the blade issue resolved.

[JoeM 8,291]

I did check a good deck to see if there is any difference in the mounting brackets. The side with the adjustment leans forward about 2 degrees. The non discharge side is vertically square with the deck.

[mcfly10 4]

@JoeMThanks! That was the problem! The mounting brackets were at about an 15 degree angle off from a 90. Here was my fix, however I'm still off by 1/3" and its still pretty noticeable on the lawn. I think I've run out of room for additional shimming, there's lot of weight resting on the bolts with just washers as shims I feel, so I'm looking at rewelding the bracket after this season.

Edited May 27 by mcfly10

[Handy Don 13,979]

21 hours ago, mcfly10 said:

Good work!

If it’s within your skill set, I’d consider using washers to get the exact length you need and then measure the stack so you can make a spacer at the correct thickness large enough to distribute the load across the brackets. You could even incorporate a bevel, if that helps with the fit. 

I’d also look to change the bolt(s) to a grade 5 or grade 8 so you can torque with confidence.