C175

[AHS 1,524]

i just put in new points, but i forgot to tighten down the coil clamp. While it was running (w/out the bolt to tighten down the coil) the coil vibrated loose and the condenser wire got grounded. It shut off. It will run. I will crank it over, and it will only fire up after i put it to the Run position. I got a video of it, I don’t know if it will let me put it up here. Here the picture of the coil (W/ the bolt in!) oops! @ebinmaine has seen the video. Anyway! New condenser? I should probably check make sure my points are at .020”. I measured the points two weeks ago and they were.

[Pullstart 65,721]

59 minutes ago, AHS said:

I got a video of it, I don’t know if it will let me put it up here.

 

 

[953 nut 59,214]

Becoming a supporter of Red Square will make it easier to post videos and pictures.  

 

Whenever some new problem crops up it is likely to be related to the last thing you did, in this case the condenser wire having been shorted. Your engine will run without a condenser for testing purposes. Remove the wire from the coil to condenser and seed if the problem goes away, If so buy a new condenser, install it and call it a day.

[ebinmaine 71,801]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 71,801]

I pasted the video above. Notice that the tractor doesn't start until he lets go of the key. What causes that?

[Handy Don 13,679]

13 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I pasted the video above. Notice that the tractor doesn't start until he lets go of the key. What causes that?

Likely a faulty starter switch that isn’t powering the I (ignition) terminal (which is powering the coil) when the key is in the start position. 

Easy to test with voltmeter--look for voltage between the “I" terminal and ground when turning the key to Start. 

Of course, the tractor will try to start so neutral and parking brake on!

Also seat switch, PTO lever, and clutch interlock (if so equipped) would prevent start, so seated. PTO OFF, and clutch in for the test!!

Edited May 14 by Handy Don

[Bill D 2,210]

9 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I pasted the video above. Notice that the tractor doesn't start until he lets go of the key. What causes that?

Delete post.  Incorrect information posted.

Edited May 15 by Bill D

[Handy Don 13,679]

58 minutes ago, Bill D said:

There are two wires that go that engine.  One for the coil and one for the voltage regulator/rectifier.   My guess is they got reversed somehow.  I could be wrong, but when the key is turned to start, the connection is opened to the voltage regulator/rectifier.  That would explain this problem.

So you’re suggesting the battery/regulator wire is on the I terminal and the ignition wire is on the B terminal?

I and B are connected within the switch in both in “Run” and “Start” positions and then to S when in the start position. 

 

Edited May 14 by Handy Don

[953 nut 59,214]

13 hours ago, AHS said:

While it was running (w/out the bolt to tighten down the coil) the coil vibrated loose and the condenser wire got grounded. It shut off. It will run. I will crank it over, and it will only fire up after i put it to the Run position.

Let me see if we understand this.        Prior to the coil falling off and the condenser wire shorting out staling the engine everything worked normally. Turn the key to start and the engine started and would continue to run when the key was released. Is that correct?

[AHS 1,524]

6 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I pasted the video above. Notice that the tractor doesn't start until he lets go of the key. What causes that?

Thank you!!

[AHS 1,524]

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

Let me see if we understand this.        Prior to the coil falling off and the condenser wire shorting out staling the engine everything worked normally. Turn the key to start and the engine started and would continue to run when the key was released. Is that correct?

Yes, everything was normal.

[Handy Don 13,679]

If the wire to the coil is on the A terminal of the ignition switch, that could cause this as well. Accessory is connected to power only when the switch is in the Run position. 

Edited May 15 by Handy Don

[Bill D 2,210]

6 hours ago, Handy Don said:

So you’re suggesting the battery/regulator wire is on the I terminal and the ignition wire is on the B terminal?

I and B are connected within the switch in both in “Run” and “Start” positions and then to S when in the start position. 

 

My apologies.   You  are correct.  I will edit my earlier post. 

[AHS 1,524]

9 hours ago, Handy Don said:

If the wire to the coil is on the A terminal of the ignition switch, that could cause this as well. Accessory is connected to power only when the switch is in the Run position. 

Well… i did the wiring, let me have a run thru and see if its correct!

[953 nut 59,214]

46 minutes ago, AHS said:

Well… i did the wiring, let me have a run thru and see if its correct!

But you sid it worked properly before the coil falling off.                    What number ignition switch did you use?       Not all ignition switches are the same.

[AHS 1,524]

13 hours ago, 953 nut said:

But you sid it worked properly before the coil falling off.                    What number ignition switch did you use?       Not all ignition switches are the same.

103990. The wiring was all correct. I replaced coil and condenser, no spark. So i dug into the points… the points were shut. Ah huh!! So, i got em set to .020”…(without the points cover on i started it)  it started beautiful! I shut it off, put the points cover back on and no spark?!  What is going on here?

[953 nut 59,214]

11 hours ago, AHS said:

(without the points cover on i started it)  it started beautiful! I shut it off, put the points cover back on and no spark?!

Sounds like the wire from the points to the coil has a problem, replace it and the problem will probably go away.

[Handy Don 13,679]

5 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Sounds like the wire from the points to the coil has a problem, replace it and the problem will probably go away.

Yep, getting shorted somewhere. 

[AHS 1,524]

I got the C175 running. Brand new points, set at .020!! Anyway, could it be the points not at .020? At .010”, i think the adjustment screw was a bit loose on the points, and it closed?