JoeM 8,283 #1 Posted May 7 Got a call today from a friend that was changing spark plugs in his CH22 Kohler. The conversation started out, "I got big troubles!" He said he snapped off a spark plug when tightening it. I said the porcelain? No the whole top of the plug, nut and all! Oh boy! He sent me a pic. Yep that is a problem. Said the torque wrench was set at 20 ft lbs and it broke before it clicked. Hmmm. I went right over and after a few tense moments with a long easy out, the threaded part came out. Looking closer at the break point, I noticed there is not much material between the nut and threads. Guess they just don't make them like the used to? 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,633 #2 Posted May 7 When asked what brand of plug I prefer I answer ABC (Anything But Champion) 4 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,714 #3 Posted May 7 (edited) I've seen that all the way back into the 90's. Lucky for me it was an AC plug on a GM 4 banger so it was a straight shot to get it out. Edited May 7 by squonk 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 9,340 #4 Posted May 7 It prevents overtightening!! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 8,283 #5 Posted May 7 4 minutes ago, ri702bill said: It prevents overtightening!! breakaway design! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 9,340 #6 Posted May 7 32 minutes ago, JoeM said: breakaway design! In Auto trade School, we had a couple of 1/2" "breakaway" torque wrenches. Effective, but dangerous - not for use in tight quarters!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,567 #7 Posted May 7 21 years in small engine repair ive never used a torque wrench on a spark plug. Tapered seat...finger tight then 1/16-1/8 turn. Gasket type...finger tight then 1/2 turn. Almost every stripped plug hole i have to repair is from someone using a torqe wrench and it pulls the threads going in, and galls coming out. 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 29,351 #8 Posted May 7 2 hours ago, JoeM said: CH22 Kohler Sure it wasn't a Ford 5.4L?? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 28,311 #9 Posted May 7 30 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said: 21 years in small engine repair ive never used a torque wrench on a spark plug. Tapered seat...finger tight then 1/16-1/8 turn. Gasket type...finger tight then 1/2 turn. Almost every stripped plug hole i have to repair is from someone using a torqe wrench and it pulls the threads going in, and galls coming out. Not a mechanic but same here... no issues... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 3,138 #10 Posted May 7 51 minutes ago, Achto said: Sure it wasn't a Ford 5.4L?? The 5.4 was such a joke with spark plugs. The 2-vavle version you couldn't keep them in, and the 3-valves you couldn't get them out. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 8,283 #11 Posted May 8 13 hours ago, Achto said: Sure it wasn't a Ford 5.4L?? they say if it was not for that plug issue the 5.4 was a good one. never had one. some co workers did and that plug job was big money. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ML3 1,637 #12 Posted May 8 13 hours ago, adsm08 said: The 5.4 was such a joke with spark plugs. The 2-vavle version you couldn't keep them in, and the 3-valves you couldn't get them out. There's a procedure to get the plugs out of the 3V. I was a Ford service manager for a few years. We did plenty of them. It's carbon build up around spark plug that locks them into the head. 1st run some aggressive carbon cleaner in engine & then add more to let it soak overnight. Then use a small (3/8")battery impact w/socket. Carefully & slowly let it bump the carbon (now loosened by the cleaner soak) off the plugs. Adding some heat will also help. Of course lastly do an oil change. We had a pretty good success rate of doing them 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clueless 3,224 #13 Posted May 8 17 hours ago, RED-Z06 said: 21 years in small engine repair ive never used a torque wrench on a spark plug. Tapered seat...finger tight then 1/16-1/8 turn. Gasket type...finger tight then 1/2 turn. Almost every stripped plug hole i have to repair is from someone using a torqe wrench and it pulls the threads going in, and galls coming out. Why would ever need to torque a small engine spark plug? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,788 #14 Posted May 8 50 minutes ago, clueless said: Why would ever need to torque a small engine spark plug? Some folks make them too tight, others too loose, a specification takes out the guesswork. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,567 #15 Posted May 8 25 minutes ago, lynnmor said: Some folks make them too tight, others too loose, a specification takes out the guesswork. Sometimes the specification takes out the threads too🤣 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 3,138 #16 Posted May 8 (edited) 8 hours ago, ML3 said: There's a procedure to get the plugs out of the 3V. I was a Ford service manager for a few years. We did plenty of them. It's carbon build up around spark plug that locks them into the head. 1st run some aggressive carbon cleaner in engine & then add more to let it soak overnight. Then use a small (3/8")battery impact w/socket. Carefully & slowly let it bump the carbon (now loosened by the cleaner soak) off the plugs. Adding some heat will also help. Of course lastly do an oil change. We had a pretty good success rate of doing them I graduated ASSET in 06, achieved Senior Master for the first time in 2015. That's nothing I haven't done a few hundred times, and you are absolutely correct. When I started running the BG top-end cleaner or SeaFoam through first and using the 3/8 impact my failure rate on those plugs went from roughly 4 per vehicle to about one on every fourth vehicle. It also helps to have the engine warm. We would get it not quite to full operating temp, maybe 150-170, do four plugs, put that side all back together, then run it for another 10 minutes before doing the other side. Edited May 8 by adsm08 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 3,138 #17 Posted May 8 (edited) 9 hours ago, JoeM said: they say if it was not for that plug issue the 5.4 was a good one. never had one. some co workers did and that plug job was big money. The 5.4 2-vavle was a great engine. The 3-vavle was mediocre, and some years were trash. I've personally put close to 75K miles on 2-valve Triton engines that had rod knock but never failed catastrophically. I've also replaced 3-valves with 30K or less for total engine failure. There was a year or two when they had thrust bearing issues that were wiping out the bottom end, and the VCT system can't run without enough oil pressure, but you also lose about 15 PSI in normal operation from the pressure tap at the filter to the phaser at the head, so if the base pressure at the crank gets too low the engine can't run properly. Edited May 8 by adsm08 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,714 #18 Posted May 8 7 minutes ago, adsm08 said: I graduated ASSET in 06, achieved Senior Master for the first time in 2015. That's nothing I haven't done a few hundred times, and you are absolutely correct. When I started running the BG top-end cleaner or SeaFoam through first and using the 3/8 impact my failure rate on those plugs went from roughly 4 per vehicle to about one on every fourth vehicle. It also helps to have the engine warm. We would get it not quite to full operating temp, maybe 150-170, do four plugs, put that side all back together, then run it for another 10 minutes before doing the other side. And some folks call BG and Seafoam " Snake Oil." The stuff WORKS! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites