Paint runs

[1968Commando 134]

Hey yall, I know you guys are probably getting sick of my questions but I just started painting tonight on the rims and oh my gosh I though it was going good and then I started to notice the paint runs. Any tips or tricks out there for a new painter. Any tips or tricks are greatly appreciated.

[kpinnc 13,942]

If you are using rattle cans, make several light coats. Holding the can further back from what you're painting and never stop moving while spraying. 

 

Different brand paints lay down very differently one to another. You'll have to test on another surface any time you change brands. 

[8ntruck 7,478]

Use several light coats instead of heavy coat.

 

Your current issue is probably what to do with the runs.  Let the paint cure for a couple weeks, sand the runs out, scuff the rest of the paint, then spray on a couple light coats.

 

A quicker method would be to wire brush the paint off and start over.

 

Good luck.  Remember - you gain knowledge from your own mistakes and wisdom from others mistakes.

[1968Commando 134]

23 minutes ago, 8ntruck said:

Use several light coats instead of heavy coat.

 

Your current issue is probably what to do with the runs.  Let the paint cure for a couple weeks, sand the runs out, scuff the rest of the paint, then spray on a couple light coats.

 

A quicker method would be to wire brush the paint off and start over.

 

Good luck.  Remember - you gain knowledge from your own mistakes and wisdom from others mistakes.

So if I painted one rim tonight I can’t just hit it with some sandpaper tomorrow or will it just look werid and not good?

[1968Commando 134]

29 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

If you are using rattle cans, make several light coats. Holding the can further back from what you're painting and never stop moving while spraying. 

 

Different brand paints lay down very differently one to another. You'll have to test on another surface any time you change brands. 

Ok thank you I will say I do kinda think my rattle can is messed up because a few times it sprayed bubbles of paint onto the rim so i might just go buy another can 

Edited May 6 by 1968Commando

[oliver2-44 10,445]

To speed up paint curing, set the rim in front of a small portable heater to bake it dry. 

 

Also you may be able to take a sharp knife or razor blade and shave some of the run off.

[ri702bill 9,091]

Two things - if you used enamel to paint them, it takes more than a week for it to cure enough to be sanded. If you can push your fingernail into a run and it leaves a mark, it is too soft to sand. Best bet is either paint remover solvent or acetone with rags & elbow grease to remove it back to the original paint.

An old trick from my Model Car building days - heat the rattle can before you use it in a pan of hot tap water. It heats the paint so it flashes off faster, redicing the chance of runs and raises the internal pressure to give a better spray. Heat the can between coats - be sure to wipe the can to remove water that can (will) drip on the work.

 

Are your tires already mounted? I hope so, as tire mounting tool will rip up the paint on the lip.... the playing card trick on a deflated tire works great...

Edited May 6 by ri702bill

[JoeM 8,003]

The odd shape of a rim makes it harder to paint. You have to look at the paint as it is sprayed to make sure you have just a hint of a wet edge as it lays down. 

I with the others on warming the can and spraying a mist/light tac first coat.

Shake well means to shake the cans well. 

Regular Rustoleum can be unforgiving. 2x Rustoleum is a bit more forgiving. 

If you want your finish to be tough and UV resistant, a couple of light coats of Rustoleum Clear Enamel to finish will help.

Even when I spray gun the cheap Majic Tractor Supply paint, I clear over it with a Rattle Can of clear. I put 2 light coats, 10 minutes apart. after the last coat of color. 

[953 nut 58,444]

One other tip for spray painting. Begin the spray before it gets to the object to be painted and continue spraying with a continuous motion until you have passed the other edge. If you just start spraying at the edge you will be putting more material on that spot.

1 hour ago, ri702bill said:

tire mounting tool will rip up the paint on the lip.

I have cut the fingers off an old leather glove, place that leather on the tire mounting tool and it will reduce the likelihood of paint damage.

[1968Commando 134]

2 hours ago, ri702bill said:

Two things - if you used enamel to paint them, it takes more than a week for it to cure enough to be sanded. If you can push your fingernail into a run and it leaves a mark, it is too soft to sand. Best bet is either paint remover solvent or acetone with rags & elbow grease to remove it back to the original paint.

An old trick from my Model Car building days - heat the rattle can before you use it in a pan of hot tap water. It heats the paint so it flashes off faster, redicing the chance of runs and raises the internal pressure to give a better spray. Heat the can between coats - be sure to wipe the can to remove water that can (will) drip on the work.

 

Are your tires already mounted? I hope so, as tire mounting tool will rip up the paint on the lip.... the playing card trick on a deflated tire works great...

I used rust oleum paint plus primer almond which I assume is a different type of paint

Edited May 6 by 1968Commando

[1968Commando 134]

37 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

One other tip for spray painting. Begin the spray before it gets to the object to be painted and continue spraying with a continuous motion until you have passed the other edge. If you just start spraying at the edge you will be putting more material on that spot.

I have cut the fingers off an old leather glove, place that leather on the tire mounting tool and it will reduce the likelihood of paint damage.

Lucky for me mine are mounted still, how hot does this water need to be?

[Achto 28,964]

9 hours ago, 1968Commando said:

So if I painted one rim tonight I can’t just hit it with some sandpaper tomorrow or will it just look werid and not good?

 

If you sand the runs out you will need to spray another coat or 2 of paint on the rim for it to look good. Read and respect the recoat time that is printed on the can, if you recoat "dry" paint too soon you may end up with a lifting issue. Lifting = your paint will start to wrinkle. If this happens you will need to strip the part down & start over. Recoat time can be 72hrs - 2 weeks. Note: you will need to scuff the whole part if you are going to repaint. Scotchbrite works great for this. 

The can may give you a recommended time between coats, 15 min, 30min, what ever. The best & most fool proof way is to touch the painted part. Pick a spot that will not be seen when assembled and touch it lightly. It should feel tacky but should not transfer paint to your finger. If you see paint on your finger, wait longer. No paint on your finger spray your next coat.

Edited May 6 by Achto

[1968Commando 134]

Okay 

15 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

If you sand the runs out you will need to spray another coat or 2 of paint on the rim for it to look good. Read and respect the recoat time that is printed on the can, if you recoat "dry" paint too soon you may end up with a lifting issue. Lifting = your paint will start to wrinkle. If this happens you will need to strip the part down & start over. Recoat time can be 72hrs - 2 weeks. Note: you will need to scuff the whole part if you are going to repaint. Scotchbrite works great for this. 

The can may give you a recommended time between coats, 15 min, 30min, what ever. The best & most fool proof way is to touch the painted part. Pick a spot that will not be seen when assembled and touch it lightly. It should feel tacky but should not transfer paint to your finger. If you see paint on your finger, wait longer. No paint on your finger spray your next coat.

Okay thank you sir.

[kpinnc 13,942]

10 hours ago, 1968Commando said:

it sprayed bubbles

 

Periodically check while painting for accumulation around the nozzle. That will make spatters every time. 

[1968Commando 134]

Okay guys I need help I took all your tips and well one front rim looks good and the other…well it looks horrible this one turned out good and then comes the bad one 

Edited May 6 by 1968Commando

[SylvanLakeWH 27,801]

That second one looks like there was still gunk oil grease whatever on the rim...?

 

Start over. Rag with thinner to get bulk of paint off. Then sand wire brush it down. Then sand . Then wipe clean clean clean... I use acetone.

[8ntruck 7,478]

Are you using a primer?  That looks like bare metal showing through your top coat.  The primer helps the top coat stick to the object being painted.

 

Best to use a primer that is the same brand ans is intended to be used under whatever top coat you are using.  Same rules to app,y the primer - light coats, follow directions on the can.

Edited May 7 by 8ntruck

[1968Commando 134]

2 hours ago, 8ntruck said:

Are you using a primer?  That looks like bare metal showing through your top coat.  The primer helps the top coat stick to the object being painted.

 

Best to use a primer that is the same brand ans is intended to be used under whatever top coat you are using.  Same rules to app,y the primer - light coats, follow directions on the can.

It’s primer and I used the same primer and enamel paint on the entire tractor just this is a almond enamel it’s the first I’ve had issues with 

[1968Commando 134]

2 hours ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

That second one looks like there was still gunk oil grease whatever on the rim...?

 

Start over. Rag with thinner to get bulk of paint off. Then sand wire brush it down. Then sand . Then wipe clean clean clean... I use acetone.

Rag with thinner?

[JoeM 8,003]

 

 

Most likely surface contamination.

I have gotten away from prepping the surface with thinner or acetone.  

I microfiber wipe the surface before paint or primer with 50/50 water and alcohol (lantern fuel). Let dry and coat with a primer sealer.  

Some like to paint the same day over the primer but I prefer to wait 72 sand and paint. 

On larger jobs I use 2K epoxy primer sealer.

On small stuff I will hit in with this primer, sands nice

[1968Commando 134]

2 hours ago, JoeM said:

 

 

Most likely surface contamination.

I have gotten away from prepping the surface with thinner or acetone.  

I microfiber wipe the surface before paint or primer with 50/50 water and alcohol (lantern fuel). Let dry and coat with a primer sealer.  

Some like to paint the same day over the primer but I prefer to wait 72 sand and paint. 

On larger jobs I use 2K epoxy primer sealer.

On small stuff I will hit in with this primer, sands nice

Well so I guess now I’ve got to sand it back down and repaint it…great

[JoeM 8,003]

1 hour ago, 1968Commando said:

Well so I guess now I’ve got to sand it back down and repaint it…great

We have all done a time or two. 

The first one looks really nice. The up side is eventually you will want to do a bigger job or whole machine and most of mistakes will be avoided.

I worked on some pieces once and was using just regular primer. The next day I sanded the primer and all seemed fine. That afternoon I decided to paint. I got several crinkled raised areas in the pieces. Bad feeling. Working so hard and having to redo. 

I only found one pic of the bad paint. You can see in background I was getting those fish eyes along with the crinkles. 

 

[1968Commando 134]

1 hour ago, JoeM said:

We have all done a time or two. 

The first one looks really nice. The up side is eventually you will want to do a bigger job or whole machine and most of mistakes will be avoided.

I worked on some pieces once and was using just regular primer. The next day I sanded the primer and all seemed fine. That afternoon I decided to paint. I got several crinkled raised areas in the pieces. Bad feeling. Working so hard and having to redo. 

I only found one pic of the bad paint. You can see in background I was getting those fish eyes along with the crinkles. 

 

Funny thing is the front one looked bad then I went out to my garage this morning and one of the back rims looked like that piece of metal so I don’t know I guess I’m just gona resend a front and back rim because 2 turned out good and 2 turned out bad

 

[rmaynard 15,965]

When I was a young man back in 1980, I took a night school course in Body & Painting. One of the questions that came up in the first class was about painting with spray cans. My instructor thought for a moment and then said something like this.

 

"All that I will say is that people are either good at painting, or they are not. Spray can paint is either good or it's not. Conditions optimal for painting outdoors are either good or they are not. Chances of getting all three to come together in one place at one time are mostly not". 

 

So, good luck.

 

 

 

[squonk 42,890]

I just did these wheels on Monday.  Sand blasted. 2 coats of Rustoleum self etching primer. As soon as that was dry, 2 coats of Rustoleum Almond paying no attention to recommended drying time. ( maybe 10 minutes) then 2 coats of Rustoleum clear. The first coat going on whilst the lastcolor coat was still wet.