nylyon-(Admin) 7,499 #26 Posted Friday at 10:36 PM If you take the battery tray out and the dash panel, you can reach in from the dash side and loosen the nuts on the screws that hold the bracket on, they are 5/16. Then the bracket holding the fuse holder comes out and you can do the same for the fuse holder itself. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TC10284 111 #27 Posted Saturday at 10:10 PM I need some help. I'm stuck. I got the fuse block in today and connected it up like I THOUGHT it should be, basing it off the old fuse block and the wiring diagram for my model. Original fuse block: https://photos.app.goo.gl/p5q52ygh9VaTnJVG8 Replacement fuse block after my work: https://photos.app.goo.gl/SU75zHks2pttF9nc9 Explanation: Someone put a tap from the red wire to provide power to the two white wires. This worked previously, although the wires in the fuse block were loose and losing connection, causing the tractor to die. On the NEW fuse block, I attempted to do this by using a joined terminal, as shown in my pics, that SHOULD (in my mind) provide power from the red wire to the two white wires through the fuse for white. My problem is that when I turn the battery booster on, and key switch on, I get NOTHING. Wiggling the wires does nothing. I get absolutely nothing. I don't get any voltage on either red wire when putting a multimeter red lead on either red wire and the black lead to a good engine ground. I am confused. I then went to review the wiring diagram and I can't figure out what I'm missing. I've reviewed closely the wiring diagram here for my model/serial (73421 4900770) where the red wire from the battery "splits" into two at the fuse block the 25A and 30A fuses, which is where I THOUGHT the double fuse terminal would come into play. But something is off... I also noticed there was a blue wire tapped into another blue wire and cut on a relay, but that has not affected anything before and I will address that later. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,499 #28 Posted Saturday at 10:34 PM The red wire which feeds the fuse block is comming off the red wire on the 9-pin connector. Check for +12v on the starter terminal, the engine side of the red wire on the 9-pin and the tractor side of the 9-pin. Finally on the fuse block. If you have the power everywhere except the fuse, you have a bad red wire. That wire should be hot all the time regardless of the position of the key. My 416-H is serial number 479 and 100% original, so I can check anything on that for you as well, except it is in the shed and it is raining now so would have to be tomorrow. I think you are on the right track, but need to chase down that red wire to see why you don’t have power. One of those red wires goes to the battery via the 9-pin and primary on the starter, the other side to the key. If you are getting nothing on either side, work backwards to the 9-pin and to the starter. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TC10284 111 #29 Posted Saturday at 11:15 PM (edited) 42 minutes ago, nylyon said: The red wire which feeds the fuse block is comming off the red wire on the 9-pin connector. Check for +12v on the starter terminal, the engine side of the red wire on the 9-pin and the tractor side of the 9-pin. Finally on the fuse block. If you have the power everywhere except the fuse, you have a bad red wire. That wire should be hot all the time regardless of the position of the key. My 416-H is serial number 479 and 100% original, so I can check anything on that for you as well, except it is in the shed and it is raining now so would have to be tomorrow. I think you are on the right track, but need to chase down that red wire to see why you don’t have power. One of those red wires goes to the battery via the 9-pin and primary on the starter, the other side to the key. If you are getting nothing on either side, work backwards to the 9-pin and to the starter. It was the red wire that is supposed to provide 12v to everything on the engine side of the 9 pin connector that I "fixed" previously. It came loose. 🙄😡 I haven't tried starting it, but I have power and the idiot lights come on as normal now. Thanks! Edited Saturday at 11:16 PM by TC10284 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,499 #30 Posted Saturday at 11:18 PM Should be all set once that is secured. The rest looks like it’s the way it should be, except that blue wire, sounds like it;’s the starter circuit for “fixed” at one point, or a safety switch bypassed. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TC10284 111 #31 Posted Saturday at 11:30 PM It turns over so hopefully, if my wiring work is good enough, I should be in a better position. I'll prob address that blue wire next but will prob need a new relay switch connector. I appreciate your help! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,499 #32 Posted Saturday at 11:34 PM Have to find where to source the relay connector. Glad you’re back in business now! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 58,032 #33 Posted Saturday at 11:45 PM 5 minutes ago, nylyon said: Have to find where to source the relay connector. Glad you’re back in business now! Those relays and the connectors are a standard automotive part. Any auto parts store will have them. https://www.ebay.com/itm/221743323892?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-166974-028196-7&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=221743323892&targetid=2274564709393&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9010285&poi=&campaignid=21976437555&mkgroupid=171113455826&rlsatarget=pla-2274564709393&abcId=10124668&merchantid=101489859&geoid=9010285&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh8RBGiKRpcznoEG6xYxDtAZd&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiLLABhCEARIsAJYS6ulm5sJnu9YXYS8ygD7oMC3IPL6wwcZAVT_FycCep4diljCoDiZWBYIaAlT2EALw_wcB 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
