Handy Don 13,773 #26 Posted February 5 The end of the steering arm is fine, since it only has the bolted on ball joints. The tie rod end you are showing looks just about exhausted (and I can relate from experience that having a tie rod fall apart while driving is...unpleasant). @ebinmaine has posted making Heim-jointed tie rods (and many other members have done this as well). The spindle-axle seems ok from the picture, as long as the spindle cannot “wiggle” in the axle and you use the zerk to grease them up after assembly. You’re doing well! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 28,182 #27 Posted February 5 Agree with @Handy Don. Another source for tie rods is a vendor here on Redsquare - Wheelhorsepartsandmore.com. I have purchased several pairs and very pleased with the quality. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,084 #28 Posted February 5 I'd ad several vendors to check with. @Jake Kuhn @76c12091520h And Lincoln at A to Z Tractor in PA. CALL Lincoln with your old fashioned voice. I've dealt with all 3. All excellent. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1968Commando 147 #29 Posted February 5 33 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I'd ad several vendors to check with. @Jake Kuhn @76c12091520h And Lincoln at A to Z Tractor in PA. CALL Lincoln with your old fashioned voice. I've dealt with all 3. All excellent. Oh ok thank you I’ll keep those in mind for future reference 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 618 #30 Posted February 6 What I've learned is, Eric/ebinmaine most of what he says makes sense. Hes helped me restore a b80 (the newer version of a commando 8) and now build a commando 8 puller. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,084 #31 Posted February 6 14 hours ago, Easton Rich said: What I've learned is, Eric/ebinmaine most of what he says makes sense. I done learndeded from the fine folk here on Redsquare!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1968Commando 147 #32 Posted February 8 Well, I went and got a paint stripper wheel for a grinder and put on a mask opened up the garage and windows in the garage plus the side door in the garage, and had a fan moving air. And then I got the top of the hood done and realized this thing worked great…..the breathing situation….not so much sooo I went and talked to my parents and we decided to wet sand and it looks ok in my opinion I don’t really know what I’m doing but hey,I’m trying, anyways that’s the update here’s some pictures for yall. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,084 #33 Posted February 9 14 hours ago, 1968Commando said: paint stripper wheel Pics? That might work well for your decals too. As for the breathing. You're obviously well aware that you need to be protected. NOW is the time to invest in a good quality mask. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 28,182 #34 Posted February 9 Wet sanding only goes so far... if you are grinding / sanding wear eye protection and a mask - at least N-95. Ask yourself why a bunch of old guys are suggesting this... maybe some parts of us don't work like they should because back when we were young - way back for some of us - such stuff wasn't a "thing" or wasn't even available... passing on wisdom from our past follies... 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1968Commando 147 #35 Posted February 9 1 hour ago, SylvanLakeWH said: Wet sanding only goes so far... if you are grinding / sanding wear eye protection and a mask - at least N-95. Ask yourself why a bunch of old guys are suggesting this... maybe some parts of us don't work like they should because back when we were young - way back for some of us - such stuff wasn't a "thing" or wasn't even available... passing on wisdom from our past follies... I had a n95 on but I was sanding in the garage so I’ll probably move it outside when it’s not raining sometime soon. And use the wheel again 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,084 #36 Posted February 9 1 hour ago, 1968Commando said: I had a n95 on but My Trina works in the health care field. Most folks (including me until the pandemic) aren't aware that even though a mask has a particular rating, it isn't necessarily the best answer. An N95 mask MUST BE FITTED PROPERLY or it is NOT certifiable as N95. Period. Trina is fairly small statured. I am most certainly not. We do NOT use the same mask. No fitting. No N95 rating. Do take the time now while you're aware of the situation and trying to solve it to find a proper fitting mask. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1968Commando 147 #37 Posted March 6 Soo it’s crazy how time flys I can’t believe it’s been a month since I’ve posted on here I’m sorry, weathers been colder so I haven’t been working on the project much until lately this weekend I got the frame and other pieces sanded now I just gotta wait till warmer weather to get it primed not the best pictures but I figured nobody would really care to see sanded metal, also a question for yall, I messed up when drilling thru the hood support bar and now there’s a broke drill bit stuck in there the hole is all the way thru and I’ve been using a punch go try and remove it and it’s not working is there any other solution to try and get it out? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,084 #38 Posted March 6 Can you get a close up picture of the bit broken in the hole? I'm thinking maybe a file and then a punch and maybe a better quality harder drill bit? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1968Commando 147 #39 Posted March 7 Will 12 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Can you get a close up picture of the bit broken in the hole? I'm thinking maybe a file and then a punch and maybe a better quality harder drill bit? will get a picture for ya will probably be Saturday I am swamped right now with school and work 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1968Commando 147 #40 Posted March 31 Well I guess I’ll update you all, I’ve just been super busy with life and unfortunately recently lost a loved one but I am getting the tractor done I am currently waiting to prime and paint because it had either been to windy or raining and cold to do anything of that. I just want to thank YALL for the information you have provided during this project. Thank you, and again sorry I haven’t been very active i am still around just other things have taken a step above the tractor in the coming weeks I will have more picture of The painting process. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 13,773 #41 Posted March 31 15 hours ago, 1968Commando said: other things have taken a step above the tractor Your tending to your family is way more important. Losing a loved one hurts. I am sorry for your loss. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1968Commando 147 #42 Posted April 1 19 hours ago, Handy Don said: Your tending to your family is way more important. Losing a loved one hurts. I am sorry for your loss. Thank you sir. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1968Commando 147 #43 Posted April 17 Hello all, update for you all, I’ve gotten alot of priming done and just started pairing last night here’s some pictures for yall to enjoy 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1968Commando 147 #44 Posted May 2 Well it’s going back together! 1 question I am going to rebuild the starter generator how do I go about painting it? Without messing it up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,084 #45 Posted May 2 35 minutes ago, 1968Commando said: Well it’s going back together! 1 question I am going to rebuild the starter generator how do I go about painting it? Without messing it up I've seen a couple with the case painted separately from the end caps. Red case. Silver or aluminum caps. In the Pic below... You may want to remove the paint from the drive pulley. That can cause slippage. 35 minutes ago, 1968Commando said: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1968Commando 147 #46 Posted May 2 28 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I've seen a couple with the case painted separately from the end caps. Red case. Silver or aluminum caps. In the Pic below... You may want to remove the paint from the drive pulley. That can cause slippage. My case is actually black and my end caps are silver this was a replacement motor however 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1968Commando 147 #47 Posted May 2 @ebinmaine for the rims what color should I use I have been looking in forums but it’s confusing because it seems like everybody uses different paints. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,084 #48 Posted May 2 9 minutes ago, 1968Commando said: @ebinmaine for the rims what color should I use I have been looking in forums but it’s confusing because it seems like everybody uses different paints. Agreed. There are brand preferences and there are color preferences. The immediate first thought there is, it's your tractor so if you prefer a lighter or darker tan, use it. Personally I like a tan color or off-white color that is very very lightly tinted. On all of the restorations Trina and I have done, we've used Rust-Oleum 2x Navajo White which we believe is now called Cottage White. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1968Commando 147 #49 Posted May 2 2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Agreed. There are brand preferences and there are color preferences. The immediate first thought there is, it's your tractor so if you prefer a lighter or darker tan, use it. Personally I like a tan color or off-white color that is very very lightly tinted. On all of the restorations Trina and I have done, we've used Rust-Oleum 2x Navajo White which we believe is now called Cottage White. Okay, have you or somebody you know on here ever used almond I cannot find Navajo white near me it’s sold out and also cottage white. I guess rustoleum in my area is finicky Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 14,393 #50 Posted May 2 (edited) 7 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: The immediate first thought there is, it's your tractor so if you prefer a lighter or darker tan, use it. Personally I like a tan color or off-white color that is very very lightly tinted. On all of the restorations Trina and I have done, we've used Rust-Oleum 2x Navajo White which we believe is now called Cottage White. There are no real paint codes with these little red machines. Wheel Horse red changed around 6 times during production. Same goes for wheel paint. If you're using automotive finishes, you can certainly get very close to original colors. Unfortunately if you're using rattle cans (as I do often), you're limited by what is available. The main thing is that you enjoy what it looks like when you're done. That being said, Navajo White does look nice! Some say almond is too dark. But I've used it before and it looked great to me. Edited May 2 by kpinnc Share this post Link to post Share on other sites